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nudes
Regular


Location:
Sydney/Wollongong
Registered:
October 2004
Impossible? Wed, 24 November 2004 08:48 Go to next message
Picked up my 20v and T50 last night..

i'm going to have to register the KE70 before i start the conversion arent i..
because there isnt any way in this world that its gonna pass engineering + blue slip + rego with a 20v and manual conversion alone.... is there?

the brakes'll be done within a month or 2 of the conversion but the way i figure on doing this conversion is to get one thing done at a time so i dont wind up with everything in pieces all at once..

this is bout the order i'm thinking:

1. Engine and driveline (get it driving!)
2. Brakes
3. Diff
4. Cage
5. Wheels + Tyres

EDIT: i forgot to mention that at this stage i will be getting rego (needs a blueslip but am 75% sure it will pass) in the next month then pulling it off the road and doing the conversion before it runs out of rego so i can just engineer it and continue the rego Very Happy

good idea or no?

cheers

[Updated on: Wed, 24 November 2004 09:05]

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gold28
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Location:
Madrid - Spain
Registered:
August 2002
Re: Impossible? Wed, 24 November 2004 23:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
As long as you don't mind driving around in an illegal car with invalid insurance go for it. Although I would do brakes first.
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nudes
Regular


Location:
Sydney/Wollongong
Registered:
October 2004
Re: Impossible? Thu, 25 November 2004 00:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
no, i do not plan to drive around an illegal car. i will be preparing the car such that it will pass (and exceed) the requirements of an engineers cert.

i was just having doubts on whether i should be arsed to get it regoed and then pulling it straight off the road.
the thing is, even if engineered, they will scrutineer the car 100% more when doing a blue slip prior to rego if the conversion is already done.

i'm taking it for a blueslip on the 7th then rego soon after. i will then start the conversion as soon as possible, get it engineered and then start driving Very Happy

Looking at it now, i figure it was pretty stupid even asking but my reasoning was that it WILL be engineered no matter what. An engineers certificate passes the car and says that it has been scrutinised, tested and is roadworthy. this is in effect a blueslip for an already registered car that has been modified.

its just the order in which i would have done this which was in question.

EDIT: inspected the loom today and realised it is in effect...... fucked Very Happy
anybody looking to get rid of a complete (cut or uncut but must be complete) AE101 levin 20V loom with all engine diagnostic, injector, water/coolant control and computer plugs with or without computer?

Also had a good idea on modifying the water outlets. the thermostat (and heater hose) housing hanging off the back of the block has to go so i think i will fabricate just a flat plate with 90 degree bends to replace it (and slim it down to clear the firewall) then a section of hose running round the side of the block to a section of copper (or similar) pipe which leads to where i will remote mount the thermostat housing on an ally plate bolted to the cross member or something Very Happy then to the radiator. it'll be good.... i hope
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CrUZsida
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I supported Toymods

Location:
Australia
Registered:
November 2003
Re: Impossible? Thu, 25 November 2004 00:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Get the car to be how you want it, and then get it engineered.

ie, Wait till everything is done.
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YOGI8U
Regular


Location:
up yours!
Registered:
May 2002
 
Re: Impossible? Thu, 25 November 2004 00:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
why do you want to rego it before doing a conversion?? its only wasted money sitting in the garage..
Best thing to do is get it all done at once, works out heaps cheaper in the long run,
with the engineers report they only cover what your done, not what you are going to do..
so to keep it legal and above board you would have to get a revised engineers report and blue slip for each step of your modification...
As for your RWD 20v, the idea with the plate and pipes is basally what i did, if you ever want to have a look your more then free.
Also i would surgest you fit a air bleed to the top outlet of the radiator pipe, air always builds up around here.
yogi
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flynn21atwork
Regular


Registered:
November 2003
Re: Impossible? Thu, 25 November 2004 00:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I would recommend buying a piece o crap for transport and take your time to do everything right.
Anyway, insurance companies will always take the easiest option to get out of anything, if you did have a smash, regardless of who's fault it is you who will probably get nailed. Especially if you don't have adequate brakes, and no engineer certificate.
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oldcorollas
Forums Junkie


Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
 
Re: Impossible? Thu, 25 November 2004 00:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
heh heh..

Insurance company points to 20V and Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing
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AE86slut
Forums Junkie


Location:
Baulko Hillo
Registered:
April 2004
Re: Impossible? Thu, 25 November 2004 02:02 Go to previous message
nudes wrote on Thu, 25 November 2004 11:25

Also had a good idea on modifying the water outlets. the thermostat (and heater hose) housing hanging off the back of the block has to go so i think i will fabricate just a flat plate with 90 degree bends to replace it (and slim it down to clear the firewall) then a section of hose running round the side of the block to a section of copper (or similar) pipe which leads to where i will remote mount the thermostat housing on an ally plate bolted to the cross member or something Very Happy then to the radiator. it'll be good.... i hope


I have plates/outlets to suit the 20V RWD conversion - $150. Includes a rear plate that is machined so water can flow from one side of the head to the other and is also tapped for the sensors, a plate to block the rear exh. side outlet, an outlet for your top rad hose and a T-piece for either heater hose or thermostat bypass. If you use a 4AC pump and thermostat housing (bolts straight on) you don't need to run a remote t'stat.

You do realise that the distributor is still going to be protruding right? Unless you are planning to go aftermarket ECU with coil-packs or a DLI kit.
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