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dave_ke30
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Location:
sydney, the shire
Registered:
June 2004
hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Thu, 13 January 2005 05:41 Go to next message
hey a mate of mine has a ke35 and needs to use a hydraulic clutch set up due to the 4k being replaced with a sr20.. wat would be the easiest and most cost effective way to convert the clutch to hydraulic. cheers
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rob_RA40
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Location:
c'town, NSW
Registered:
May 2002
Re: hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Thu, 13 January 2005 06:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i hear ta22 bits are the go
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mrshin
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Location:
Montrose, VIC
Registered:
May 2002
 
Re: hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Thu, 13 January 2005 09:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
TA22 pedal etc., drill, die grinder and a fistfull of tools. It's not that hard.
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andrewvibert
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Location:
Shepparton (Vic)
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May 2002
Re: hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Thu, 13 January 2005 21:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I have done this conversion many times. There are 2 bolts on the firewall in what looks like the correct place (one above the other) . Use the bottom bolt as the top hole of the cyl.I have always used just a cheap PBR trailer type cyl (5/8 depending on slave cyl size). Push rod length may have to be lengthened. Screw a rosejoint to the pushrod.rosejoint will be about 12mm to the pass side of the standard corolla pedal. Drill a whole in the pedal and fit a 12 mm ( or whatever is required to line it up) spacer between pedal and rosejoint. Fit a bolt through the whole lot and you are done.
Any questions just ask.

[Updated on: Thu, 13 January 2005 21:25]

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demuire
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Location:
Ipswich
Registered:
May 2002
   
Re: hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Thu, 13 January 2005 23:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I've done this conversion on my KE35 (4AGE). You'll need a TA22 master cylinder and some angle steel, a welder and an angle grinder.

Use the 2 bolts that andrew mentioned. On the KE35 you'll need to drill the hole for the actual MC to go through between the 2 bolts (I forget what size it is, 22mm or something like that), and you'll find that the bolts are too short. Grind the mounting tabs on the MC down a little and it'll bolt up fine. Interestingly, the studs on the KE55 are longer (long enough to just bolt the MC on), and the hole is already predrilled so it all just bolts in.

Take out your pedalbox and disassemble the clutch pedal. You'll need to weld the angle steel (approx 15x15) to the side of the pedal, this will line up with the MC. Then you'll need to cut a bit off the pedalbox clutch mount for this to clear.

Bolt it all back in and that's done!

Here's a pic:

http://images4.fotki.com/v46/photos/1/12090/508174/12070002-vi.jpg

[Updated on: Thu, 13 January 2005 23:06]

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syncro
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Location:
ireland
Registered:
October 2004
Re: hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Fri, 14 January 2005 06:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i did that on my ke35 and used the holes allready in the pedal box to bolt in an ae86 master cyl and then welded a bracket on the pedal for the pushrod but it did not give enough of a push on the m/c and the car would creep foreward with the clutch pressed and in gear if you revved it, i moved the pivot point of the pedal higher and then lengthened the pedal to line up with the brake again

the idea of using the bottom hole in the pedal box as the top hole for the m/c sounds good but i had already butchered a hole in my repainted engine bay so i had to do it the hard way.
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demuire
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Location:
Ipswich
Registered:
May 2002
   
Re: hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Fri, 14 January 2005 06:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Interesting... I don't seem to have any problems with mine, maybe it's an adjustment thing?
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Jonny2TG
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Location:
Tasmania
Registered:
May 2002
Re: hydraulic clutch conversion in ke35 Fri, 14 January 2005 07:28 Go to previous message
I have replyed to this topic many times. I tryed to get my car (KE55) as close to the factory dimentions as posiable. (Hydralic clutch standard on TE3# cars). I did use a AE86/RA23 clutch master in the factory position with the center hole drilled out. And I did use a RA23 clutch pedal. But I removed the studs on the pedal box to fit correct length bolts, and I modifyed the pivot point on the pedal box. I looked long and hard at the little pictures in the service manual showing both the cable and hydralic pedal box setups. It works very well!
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