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Classique71
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Colac, Victoria
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May 2002
icon14.gif  how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Fri, 25 February 2005 10:12 Go to next message
heys - as porimised - this is a quick no bullshit way of mounting the battery in the boot of a gt4 :

The basics of what youll need :

* Small sealed battery - Oddessy or similar ( i used a 12v800 unit)

* 1 battery box - Ill Leave this one to you to size up

* About 7 ish meters of welding cable - or very VERy heavy guage battery cable ( i used cigweld double insulated welding cable - its pretty blue , flexible , fine stranded , and cabable of holding 400 amps - tonnes for this job

* Lugs to suit your cable - so you can bolt it onto stuff - Asuto shops have these - solder or crimp on

* A roll of electrical tape

* battery terminal thingies - get one with an isolator - its handy!

* a length of pipe insulation , the stuiff they use on water pipe

* wire covers - that wrinknly stuff , thats split down the middle to cover wires in mass.

* Some sort of bolt down brace to mount battery into the battery box - i used 2 x 3/8 bolts , about 5 inches ling , with wingnuts , clamping down a piece of plate metal over the top of the battery

Ok - youll probably need other crud - but that should get you started !

Now the fun ..



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Classique71
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Fri, 25 February 2005 10:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Now the fun!

Im not gunna tell you how to do the next step in detail - but it revolves around removing ALL the paneling along the passenger side of the GT4 , from back to kickpanel ..Take out the rear seat and the passenger seat too - it will make your life alot easier - trust me!

Its pretty easy - just time consuming ..

You should be able to remove most of it in an hour or so - panels , seats , the lot

Also - remove the passenger front wheel - and take off the splashguard thats under the arch - this is a bit of a prick to do - but be patient with it and dont yank it ! they are expensive to replace ! This will expose the easiest past of the new cables path !

Now - in the engine bay - remove your battery - as it no longer has a home in the bay , AFM , airbox - and that annoying duct that runs up behind the light - this ones also a prick to remove - be gentle - take your time - and lever it out - you dont want to bust your aircon lines!

this will free up the space you need to start cleaning up the wiring that went from the battery !

First - the positive side

there is 2 cables that run off the battery positive ( 3 if you have an amplifier - but thats another story ) One goes direct from the battery to the starter motor - the other goes from the battery to one of the fuseboxes !

What we need to do - is take the coverings off these wires so we can split them up - be careful - remove any elec. tape or crinkly loom wire covery things so you have access to both wires!

once split youll clearly see which is which . We need to retain the one going toward the firewall ( thats the fusebox one ) Instead of going to the battery - reroute it so it connects up to the starter motor - ( see upcoming pics! )
the other one that goes to the old battery terminal - chuck it - no longer needed - its job will be replaced by our new fancy cable! .. ( pic to come )

The negative side !

this ones pretty easy - negative runs from the battery to the top of your gearbox - once again - follow the cable down - and unhook it - its a direct path . We'll do this cable first as its straight forward - Find a decent earthing point on the body ( i chose a bolt that holds a small bracket ( holds loom in place )on the strut tower , cleaned the paint off surrounding it , Did the same with the bracket - + prepared it to earth ..

I cut about 30 CM of welding cable - Crimped on 2 lugs - and bolted it back up - Simple! Done ! Tis is the first earth strap - the other will go in the hatch near the battery !

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/engineearth.jpg

having prepared the path - i moved onto laying the cable down!

This takes up the majority of the cable you purchased - youll need to run it along a path similar to this ( this is my suggestion - if you find a better way - by all means - use it !)

This is how my cable runs - from back to kick panel!

from the boot
http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/positivepath1.jpg

backseat
http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/positivepath2.jpg

passenger seat
http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/positivepath3.jpg

Under the kickpanel ( see small grommet above fusebox )

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/kickpanel.jpg

Thru under the arch ( use the really handy factory clips to run it to a small grommet where the other loom you follow comes thru!! VERY HANDY TOYOTA! )
http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/underarch.jpg

thru into the engine!
Cover this section with the insulating foam too - for some protection from engine bay heat + things rubbing it )

Connecting to the starter motor! Path complete!

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/startermotor.jpg

Your setup should look something like this! its the most logical way ive found - after trying a few different paths!

At this stage your only measuring it up - Cut it off where you feel you have plenty of cable to hook up to the starter motor , and have plenty of play in the boot ..

When your happy that your positive is long enough - Crimp or solder 2 more lugs up - hook one to that bolt off your starter motor ( along with the other positive that runs to the fusebox ) , bolt up - And that ends done - Finito!!

The other end - Lug , solder/crimp in preperation to hook up your battery terminals

This should finish off all the wirey related work in the engine bay - If your happy with it all being safe , protected + secure -put back in your airbox + afm etc - brace your fusebox ( i used a temporoary bracket off the airbox - to hold fusebox ) , And your done for the front!!

[Updated on: Sat, 02 July 2005 04:18]

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Classique71
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Fri, 25 February 2005 11:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Now from here on in - we start tidying things up

If your happy with the path taken ( i was ) and happy with the engine bay being compete and up to scratch ( yup - happy with that too ), start working on getting it all sorted in the back ..

I started by setting up a secondary earth strap off the battery - grounding it to the other strut tower via one of the bolts on top .. Once again - clean back to metal for good contact , prep - and cut another suitable piece of cable - say 60 Cm this time .. Lug , solder and crimp the ends - and your second earth is complete! This one will run to the negative termninal on the battery !

After all the wriring in the back was ready , mine looked a lottle something like this ( minus terminal to hook to battery )

That red lead is my amp lead - ignore if you dont have an amp - take note , if you do!

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/rearcables.jpg

You can see clearluy in this pic the floor of the hatch - Under that is your fuel tank - BIG BIG take notice!

When your readying to mount your battery box - use the shortest screws possible - you only have a maxumum of 15MM under this befoire you hit the fuel tank

My battery box came with a strap - and 2 saddles to hold the strap down - this is only to hold the BOX down - youll need to be crafty in mounting the battery itself in the box -

( for this i used the above 5 inch or so bolts , plate brace - with insulating over it and secured down with wingnuts - make sure you have good clearance for your terminals - remember - that metal brace wilkl conduct !!)

Back to the strap - I mounted one saddle right up against the white plastic thing you can see - using metal self tappers - and about 4 washers per screw - not to hit the fuel tank

the secondary - i mounted between the two grommets you see in the lower left corner - theres good metal there - pop them out and feel under - youll see what I mean

I havent got a pic of this - but can get it if asked nicely !


cut two small slits in your boot carpet to feed your strap thru - then start putting all your panels , seats , carpet etc etc back in bar for the rear most plastic panel - and back seat - leave them until your happy with how the cable feeds to the back.

Havent got a pic of this either - im working on it !

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/thrupanel.jpg

In this pic you can see my temporary solution to how to get the cables thru the last panel - i removed the small light in there ( its broken - needs repairs - fed the cable thru to the batterybox .. )

This is with the battery box in place - all hooked up - See my bracing ? See the isolator green thing - very handy!

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/batterybox.jpg

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/batterybox1.jpg

And this - is the final product - all hooked up - and secure!

http://home.iprimus.com.au/utahraptor/gt4_pics/batterybox2.jpg

I have some fine tuning and neatening to do - but this setup works - ive tested it - and nothing caught fire!

So there you go - this is only a example of what can be done - I WONT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR SOMEONE REPLCATING THIS AND BURING THEIR CAR DOWN.. ( standard disclaimer - use at own risk! )


[Updated on: Sat, 02 July 2005 04:22]

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Classique71
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Sat, 26 February 2005 10:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bump .. just for the hell of it
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Toobs
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Sat, 26 February 2005 17:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gotta love the GT4... everythings a pain in the arse Very Happy

You won't know what to do with yourself now that there will be "room" in the engine bay!
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Classique71
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Sun, 27 February 2005 01:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
there will be more room again when i can relocate the air temp sensor that lives in the afm - im tossing the stock airbox + afm setup as well + possibly moving the vavvum canister further back ..

it might actuaslly resemble an engine bay then , onstead of a pile of hoses + leads

frontmounts gotta go in soon - needed the initail battery room for a straight intake mod + intercooler piping
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berad
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Sun, 27 February 2005 05:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
when i put my battery in the boot and when i bought the wire from the welding shop they told me not to solder it. i dont know why but they said only to crimp it and not to just hammer a fitting on to it use a proper crimping tool or your not using all the wire as electricity travels through the outside of the strands of wire, thats what they told me...
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Classique71
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Sun, 27 February 2005 07:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
nods - my lugs for the cable ends were put on with the proper crimping tool - borrowed it from my auto elec friend - you put the lug in - with the wire inside the end - crimp down

* btw forgot to say thanks to shane ( cool1 ) for my last minute in need of advice bits ) *
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20valve69corona
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Thu, 09 June 2005 02:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Look good. Smile
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thechuckster
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Thu, 09 June 2005 03:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
berad wrote on Sun, 27 February 2005 15:19

when i put my battery in the boot and when i bought the wire from the welding shop they told me not to solder it. i dont know why but they said only to crimp it and not to just hammer a fitting on to it use a proper crimping tool or your not using all the wire as electricity travels through the outside of the strands of wire, thats what they told me...

then they told you total bollocks.

electrons travel thru the metal (well actually from atom to atom but ask a physicist for a better explanation) - i hear enough of this same 'traveling on the outside of the wire' crap from our resident audiophile-wanker at work.

I would suggest that you solder the crimps so it wont suffer from any vibration or movement.

go look at the wiring in a rally car - it'll usually be crimps that are then soldered so even excessive vibration or shaking wont lead to connection failure and intermittent contact.

Classique71: how strong is the loop fixed to the floor of the boot? i would have expected you to have to firmly fix the bottom of the case to the floor somehow.

cheers,
charles.
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Cool1
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Thu, 09 June 2005 04:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Its only in high frequency applications where the electrons travel on the out most skin of the conductor.
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justcallmefrank
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Thu, 09 June 2005 05:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
The other likely reason is this, try easily soldering 4 gauge copper wire with your average soldering iron Wink
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Classique71
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Thu, 09 June 2005 10:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
its not moving without physically grabbing it and ripping it out - secured by 4 screws at the base ..

i will eventually bale something a little more secure but its got all the ticks it needs to be legal
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thechuckster
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Re: how to: ST185 Gt4 Rear battery relocation Thu, 09 June 2005 10:29 Go to previous message
fair enough ... i've just seen a few installs where they've had to bolt the box to the floor - which makes something of a mockery of the box being air-tight and venting to the outside.

JCMF: nothing beats Mr Propane Torch when it comes to soldering welding cable Very Happy

[Updated on: Thu, 09 June 2005 10:29]

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