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I supported Toymods
Location:
Toodyay, WA
Registered:
July 2002
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18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Mon, 05 May 2003 23:26
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Hey Guys,
It looks like Rala's '28 is leaking some oil around the head gasket and its burning oil too! 
Looks like the head will be comeing off work some work,
Is it just pissing in the wind to do some port work to the 18R-C head?? The car is not and will not be fitted with extractors, it is also using the standard carb and inlet manifold.
Also thinking about shaving a mm or 2 while having the surface preped.
Also going to replace the timing chain while i'm at it, do i need to replace the tensioner as well??
thanks,
CamZH
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Tue, 06 May 2003 00:53
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i did this recently and i recomend getting the head pressure tested and shaved before putting it back on. cause i didnt and the head needs to come off again (yay). I wouldnt bother doing anything to the ports as the engine is staying stock and i dont think there would be any gains. um i didnt replace the timing chain tensioner as it seemed ok to me (i.e not broken) but it still rattles slightly on startup. i have heard that this is either because it is just what the motor does when it gets up the oil pressure or it is the porpotioning valve (near where the tensoner spring bolt thing is needs to be cleaned or something.
Hope this helps
Daniel
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Toodyay, WA
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Tue, 06 May 2003 01:56
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Yeah, pressure tested is probably not a bad idea.
I think having it shaved before putting it back on is a good idea, a little hard once its on the car 
CamZH
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Location:
Canberra
Registered:
December 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Tue, 06 May 2003 06:50
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If you buy a timing chain kit you will get all the guides and gaskets in it.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Berowra-Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Wed, 07 May 2003 22:55
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i did the timing chain on my Celica, did it by myself and took me 14 hours of work. and yes the chain comes with all tensioners and guides, got it from auto1.
but if your going to have it all apart then yes change all tensioners at the same time as they often stuff up not the chain and when they start to wear out it really stuffs up the timing on the engine.
you should replace all the chain sprockets as well but they are a few hundred bucks from Toyota so just check them out before you put it back together if they look really worn then just go to a wreckers and flog some off an engine out there.
any port work to an 18-RC makes a big difference as standard its a very restrictive head. but the manifold itself is very restrictive so i suggest getting extractors,
go out to pick and pay less i've heard there isn't much left on my car anymore but it did have extractors so check it out.
or go and get the timing chain - tensioners ect off it as i only changed it all 4,000km befoe i wrote it off.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Toodyay, WA
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 00:15
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Hey Ginsie!
Long time no hear!
Witzl tells me the head on your car is worth getting to,
however as i mentioned before we arent going to fit extractors, so there probably isnt much point in going for too much head work.
I just bought a timing chain yesterday, but not a kit! also got a VRS kit, will call up about the timing chain kit and see how much it is.
Do you know if the chain between the crank and the dummy cam tends to stretch also?
thanks,
Cam
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Berowra-Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 02:23
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well i don't know if they tend to stretch but i do know both my chains were stretched and once i changed the chains and most importantly the tensioners "as it was the tensioners that were stuffed" it made a huge differance and went a lot harder.
The head is meant to of had a lot of work, bigger valves, ported and polished and the cam which from what i have heard is no longer in it.
engine used a fair bit of oil but the head was perfect, the piston rings were fucked and a few block seals but the head was smick,
what i like is when i had the engine it went pretty hard and still had an even 180psi in all cylinders and thats with stuffed rings and the 3rd and 4th piston was unbalanced due to the skirts breaking off, so i can only imagine what it was like just after the rebuild 
also if your ever after any celica parts like bolts and stuff let me know i've got heaps of the crap still sitting around
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Toodyay, WA
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 02:56
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Hey Ginsie,
Sounds good, but I'll have to convince Rala that its a good idea to get a modd'd head on her car, I dont suppose you have a compression tester??
thanks,
Cam
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Berowra-Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 03:34
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no i don't have one sorry, should buy one though i've been planning too for ages i just always think, "when will i ever need one again" then a month later i want to use one 
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Location:
brisbane
Registered:
March 2003
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 08:51
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i ported,shaved and put a 34adm webber (jetted down) from a xe/xf falcon and it made a huge improvement in performance so if you want that extra hp withouhg changing to much you mayas well port and shave the head while it is off.. the webber will really lighten it up as well 30 bux from a wrecker.. maybe less.
all you godda do is get a adaptor plate and change it to cable eccelerator
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2003
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 09:35
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If you use a weber, then get one off of a 2 litre escort/cortina motor. The jetting should be about right. You are also able to remove the accelerator link from the old carby and it should bolt str8 onto the weber, no need to change to a cable accelerator (provided your original carby is off a 1977 onward 18R, the early ones have a different size link). The biggest expense is the adaptor plate (about $30) but the the change is worth the efforts.
If the bottom end is a bit tired then be weary about shaving the head too much. The increase in cylinder pressure can easily lead to 'spun' big ends when you rev it hard. Like you will be doing that
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Location:
brisbane
Registered:
March 2003
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 09:48
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the 34 adm has a bigger throat.. i noticed the difference when i went from a 32/36 to the 34 adm on mine and the cable wil make it more responcive as well.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Toodyay, WA
Registered:
July 2002
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Re: 18R-C Chain Tensioner + Head work
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Thu, 08 May 2003 22:10
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Sorry guys,
the carby is going to remain stock.
this whole car is stock, thats why i'm not putting on extractors.
hmm,
anyone got a compression tester i can borrow??
thanks,
Cam
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