In the quest for big revs and mitsubishi-crushing power I'm trying to put together a cheap 2L 2tg using 18r-g pistons on T series rods swinging from the 3t crank but I'm not 100% sure it's gonna work.
I'd be grateful if anyone could set me straight on a few things!!
-1. will they fit? - if I shorten the skirt? what comp piston would be easiest to get 12-12.5:1 I've heard 18rg pistons come in 8.something thru to 10.something. Suspect compression will be way too high or too low without further work.
-1b. will the stock pistons melt or disintegrate or anything?? they're not THAT bad are they?
-2. gudgeon pin right size, but wrong place? I might be able to work with this seeing how theres 2 crank and 2 conrod options but any suggestions would be much appreciated. Will go back to a 70mm stroke if I have to.
-3. I'm not sure that 320i / 304e @ roughly 12mm cams intended for a 1600cc will flow well engough for big revs in a 1800-194O. head is 44.5mm valve type with a little porting done etc. would I be better off keeping the short stroke so theres more flow to go around??
-4. thanks for reading this far!!
-5. The 3t-c and 2t-g cranks are both forged correct?? if not - is the 3t-gte crank forged?
-6. Whats to stop me machining a 4cyl crank- a 2t or 3t - in such a way that if you looked at it longways it would look rectangular in profile? like one of those anorexic billet atlantic cranks! assuming a forged crank is tougher than a billet one, it ( the forged one when lightened drastically by said maethod ) should still *theoretically* be quite strong right??
-7. if the pin location of the 18rg pistons is problematic I could theoretically reduce and offset the crank journals to shorten or lenghten the stroke - right? But then I'm looking for conrods again and it all gets too hard. or does it?
-8. can pressed gudgeon pins be upgraded to fully floating on on 18rg or T series piston?
Any advice at all from ppl with Big bore 2tg experience would be much appreciated!! thanks