| Author | Topic |
|---|
I supported Toymods
Banned User
Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
|
|
3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 02:27
|
 |
Can anyone give me the ins and outs of available 3T blocks? ie the good things and the bad things about each on?
The reason I ask is i'm wanting to build a 2T/3T combo for a TA22 and I have been told that some 3T blocks will bolt right in and others need a custom mount made.
Any info? Thanks
|
|
|
I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth, Western Australia
Registered:
December 2002
|
|
Re: 3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 04:23
|
|
|
The difference is in the engine mounts basically. A 3TGTE has the turbo oil return between the LH engine mount, and when using the original oil return pipe for the CT20 turbo, you need to use the factory steel engine mount to clear it. This in turn spaces the rubber mount further out, and therefore requires modification to the crossmember to fit (the mount need to be moved further out to the strut). In a naturally aspirtated situation, this eliminates the problem, as you simply block the oil return hole off (if you use a 3TGTE block), and use normal TA22 engine steel and rubber mounts to be a bolt in fit. Using a 13T (T18 Block), would also eliminate this problem, as it doen't have the oil return hole.
|
|
|
I supported Toymods
Banned User
Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
|
|
Re: 3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 07:39
|
|
|
Ahh ok so there is no advantage in using one block over the other?
|
|
|
I supported Toymods
Banned User
Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
|
|
Re: 3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 09:20
|
|
|
Actually the question I think I should be asking is, should I be after a 3T block or a 3T-G block?
|
|
|
Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
August 2003
|
|
Re: 3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 10:11
|
|
What do you have available and what are you trying to build?
If you currently have a single cam 2T motor you can use your existing block, grinding reliefs for crank clearance when fitting crank.
If you've currently got a 2T-G, you can use your 2T-G block, but earlier blocks (220, 222, ~260 head numbers) will require crank clearance machining as described above.
3T block is same as later 2T blocks, so will fit 3T crank without machining. 3T-GT block will require modification to seal the oil return.
If you're using 2T-G head on your hybrid you should use a 2T-G block as supplimentary drive cam will suit your application. With creative fitment of cam bearings 3T-G block can be used.
Hope this helps.
|
|
|
I supported Toymods
Banned User
Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
|
|
Re: 3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 10:18
|
|
I am wanting to build a 2T/3T hybrid without having to grind blocks and modify too much.
Are you saying if I had a 2T-GEU I could use the head and the block with the 3T crank, rods and pistons?
|
|
|
Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
August 2003
|
|
Re: 3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 10:49
|
|
| Quote: |
Are you saying if I had a 2T-GEU I could use the head and the block with the 3T crank, rods and pistons?
|
Yes, this is the most effective way of doing it as you don't need to either;
a) change timing gear and supplimentary camshaft into single cam block, or
b) machine clearance in early 2T block, or
c) adjust 3T bearings to suit 2T-G application.
The later 2T-G heads also were the large valve models and featured additional webbing reinforcement and (>260 head number) double valve springs.
|
|
|
I supported Toymods
Banned User
Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
|
|
Re: 3T block differences
|
Sun, 22 February 2004 10:57
|
|
Ahh great, thanks mate. This is most helpful.
Time to track down a 2T-GEU then 
|
|
|
