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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2002
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 Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 02:07
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I thought this might be a helpful thread for other people, and hoped to get some feedback on my list in case I have overlooked anything.
Thinking of buying a daily runabout. Having owned one previously, an early-mid 80's ST141 Corona is pretty high on my list. There are a number of these advertised in the local rag for next to nix "registered but sell unregistered"
Aside from the carby itself, there is nothing mechanical that I am unable to fix myself. I was therefore thinking maybe a moderate overhaul to end up with something safe and reliable on the cheap.
Radiator/heater flush $50
Coolant $40
Water pump $50
Cam belt $30
Oil $20
Oil filter $10
Air filter $20
Fuel filter $5
Spark plugs $20
Clutch fluid $10
Brake lines $60
Caliper overhaul $50
Disc Machine $50
Brake fluid $20
Brake pads $20
Wheel cylinders $30
Brake shoes $30
Roadworthy $55
6 months rego $300
Miscellaneous $200 (hoses, gaskets, stuff for roadworthy, etc)
That list comes to a bit over a thousand dollars, on top of the car's purchase. The only other things I can think of that may need doing are shocks and tyres - but I would just make a point of choosing one that didn't need these in the short term.
Some of you may say "why bother" with all that maintenance, but it's a great feeling knowing that your daily driver is going to provide good service down the track.
Thoughts?
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Location:
Montrose, VIC
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 02:55
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Bet those $20 brake pads are absolutely sensational 
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Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 02:56
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timing belt !!
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I supported Toymods
Location:
melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 05:06
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les cam belt = timing belt.
agree with shinny - $20 brake pads - spend a bit more
lets see ;
Radiator/heater flush $50 ok depends on what they find
Coolant $40 yep
Water pump $50 yep
Cam belt $30 yep
Oil $20 yep
Oil filter $10 yep
Air filter $20 yep
Fuel filter $5 i'd say $10-$15
Spark plugs $20 yep
Clutch fluid $0 (covered under brake fluid - same shit)
Brake lines $60 (what for - inspect ones on there first)
Caliper overhaul $50 inspect first - a kit might cost you more than $50!
Disc Machine $50 about right (if they can be machined, otherwise replacement could be $200)
Brake fluid $20 ($7 for dot5 castrol)
Brake pads $20 spend more than this
Wheel cylinders $30 inspect old ones first
Brake shoes $30 inspect old ones
Roadworthy $55 ($50 in VIC) inspection only
6 months rego $300
Miscellaneous $200 (hoses, gaskets, stuff for roadworthy, etc)
transfer fee and stamp duty
i almost bought a new daily driver recently and go thru the same stuff as you actually (glad to know i'm not alone) - when you start adding this stuff up a cheap car ain't always a cheap (safe) car.
i'd also include shock absorbers minimum, and, a full inspection of all bushes.
check CV joint for play and universals too on the tailshaft. i'd swap diff oil too and gearbox oil (w50 should be under 4 litres OR if you're an auto person like me adjust bands and refill and replace gasket/filter)
my 2c. good luck mate
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Location:
Hornsby, Sydney
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 08:58
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i think its way too much. buy the cheapest car with the most amount of rego and drive it until it dies. fix it only enough to keep it running and throw it away at the end of rego.
a corrolla with a 4ac motor would retail for about $1000 in goog nic with rego. its not worth spending another 1g on a car thats worth that little.
you put up about $150 to maintain the motor. one of these motors can be bought for around $50, and your counting on it not being thrash or having internal failure.
also what does it cost to get it through a roadworthy, think about suspension ball joints, bushes and tierods. these all may need to be pressed out and wheel alignments needed afterwoods, all needing special machinery which very few people have.
my opinion anyway. roadrunner
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Location:
Montrose, VIC
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 09:21
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Hmmm, suspension stuff... I've always managed with only what I've got, which includes a number of home made tools 
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 23:34
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agree with shinny - $20 brake pads - spend a bit more
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I definitely agree - all these figures are guesstimates, some will be higher and some lower. I don't remember the last time I bought a set of every-day brake pads so I'm just guessing.
But that said... if the car does nothing more than drive to and from the shops, and the rest of the car is in top nick, then cheap brake pads would probably do the trick anyway.
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Fuel filter $5 i'd say $10-$15
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Being carby, from memory the last one was $2.50
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Clutch fluid $0 (covered under brake fluid - same shit)
Brake fluid $20 ($7 for dot5 castrol)
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I assume from that you've never bled out an entire hydraulic system...? I'd allow two full bottles for the brakes and then you'll need another bottle for the clutch. Also plan to use that Motul fluid which is about $10-12/bottle.
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Brake lines $60 (what for - inspect ones on there first)
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I have pulled apart HEAPS of cars around this age, and they all have deteriorated brake lines. I challenge anyone with a 20yo Toyota to remove the brake lines and give them a bit of a bend back and forth. You'll notice pretty comprehensive cracking of the external layer 95 times of 100. Don't hear of many people bursting brake hoses, but I'm not about to be the first. $60 well spent!
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Caliper overhaul $50 inspect first - a kit might cost you more than $50!
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Kits are $8-$12 from my local brake place, and even if they're completely shagged my brake place does a single-piston caliper overhauls for $50ea.
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Disc Machine $50 about right (if they can be machined, otherwise replacement could be $200)
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I'm actually doing a brake upgrade on the car so I'll be making a point of getting rotors of an acceptable thickness. Just didn't think I'd mention this upgrade in case I confused people 
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Wheel cylinders $30 inspect old ones first
Brake shoes $30 inspect old ones
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Stuff like this is assumed as this is more of a worst-case list. That said, I'll probably replace the cylinders anyway, but if the shoes are good I'll leave them.
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transfer fee and stamp duty
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As it's not a transfer of rego and the car will be purchased this side of $500, there's not a whole lot of stamp duty to be paid, and obviously no transfer fee.
[Updated on: Tue, 18 May 2004 23:39]
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 23:46
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i'd also include shock absorbers minimum, and, a full inspection of all bushes.
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As mentioned in my original post, there are quite a few to choose from, so I'll aim to get one with good shocks already. As for bushes, if it drives okay, then what I don't know won't hurt me. Unless something is found on the roadworthy then the suspension will stay as-is. Sure, I can replace all the bushes too... but that's another $500+ and it all starts to become impractical.
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check CV joint for play and universals too on the tailshaft. i'd swap diff oil too and gearbox oil (w50 should be under 4 litres OR if you're an auto person like me adjust bands and refill and replace gasket/filter)
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You must be thinking of another car, as the ST141 has neither a w50 nor any CV joints. As for uni play, that should come up on the roadworthy.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Tue, 18 May 2004 23:49
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Thanks for your comments roadrunner, but:
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Some of you may say "why bother" with all that maintenance, but it's a great feeling knowing that your daily driver is going to provide good service down the track.
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Location:
Brisvegas
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Wed, 19 May 2004 05:58
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you should buy marks camira 
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
November 2002
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Thu, 20 May 2004 23:28
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I can't see myself owning a FWD any time soon. They're a design compromise and as a result that much less easy to work on. I chose the ST141 as it's a delight to work on
Isn't it auto, too? If you have a cr@p 4cyl daily driver it at least has to be manual or you can't keep up with traffic!
If I was going to go FWD, I'd probably aim for an injected Corolla or Camry.
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
August 2003
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Sat, 22 May 2004 15:47
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yeah go the corona 
all i have done to my corona in like 2 years in radiator flush i think 
stills runs great, need to change sparkplugs and that soon
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
February 2004
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Re: Realistic registration/repair costs to get a car on the road
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Mon, 24 May 2004 15:01
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It really does depend who you get to do a roadworthy!
Although i must agree i had st141 coronas since i got my L's. They are so much fun to drive too. Plus if you have a couple spare cars (cheap as hell to pick up down here, i have 2 spares) who cars if you hit a tree out rallying it or run over a stump and break something underneath. Thats what i miss now that i have a celica, not caring!!
I Wrote off my first corona 6 days after getting my license (got a little to friendly with a truck) and the second one my brother is now driving. (got another one spare sitting in the paddock) Although he just got a canary and requiring a bit of work, but mainly little stuff and a major oil leak in the engine bay which has been that way since i changed the head (cam housing alters slightly depending on the age of the motor)
But a spare car is always good, I bought my second corona for $150 and had it registered and roadworthied for the cost of registration plus the cost to get ball joints replaced.
In my experiance, Coronas with over 180 - 190k (2 of my coronas needed them and several friends cars) usually need ball joints. I think i paid 100-150 to get these fitted, but i wasn't quite so confident with cars back then.
And quite often a windscreen is a common requirement.
In my experiance i have never had any problems with uni joints, i have replaced 5 diffs and the uni's feel fine (are roadworthy too)
Another prob is the paper seal on the diff housing (back plate) and the axle seal go, but silicon works good to solve this problem, according to a friend of mine (mechanic) the paper seals are a waste of money.
Yeah a radiotor flush is generally in order, but when fiting it again, its a good idea to park the car on a decent slope or jack up the front end, so that you don't get any air locks (can cause head aches, and i've heard engine damage, never witnessed damage personally) or you can pull the heater hose off and stick a hose on it till bubble stop coming out of the radiator (leaving cap off)
Apart from that the 2 litre motors are as tough as guts, as long as you use coolent. Thats where i went wrong, i learnt my lesson of the importance of coolent the hard way. My old girl still runs and i'd hate to think how much piston slop would be present now, you could shake the pistons when i did the head 15 months ago!
Now that i've rambled on a whole heap, have fun and any further questions, just give us a yell and i'll try and help out.
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