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I Supported Toymods
Location: Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered: March 2004
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Location: Newcastle, Hunter Valley
Registered: January 2004
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Re: 2T Where does the choke hook up to?
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Thu, 17 June 2004 07:10
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exhaust manifold i believe...
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Location: Sydney
Registered: June 2004
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Re: 2T Where does the choke hook up to?
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Thu, 17 June 2004 07:19
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if standing nexst to car on carby side, then on the back of the carby (would be left side) there is the choke (from what i have seen they are always block plastic cover)... you will see a place on the choke to screw the pipe to. that then goes to the exhaust manifold...
temp is water... where the heater pipe goes (front passenger side of motor) there is a connector for the temp...
to know the difference if water temp or oil temp on car you look at the little pic on guage... if looks like oil can then there you go, otherwise the other pic (to me) looks like a thermometer in water
hope this helps you
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I Supported Toymods
Location: Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered: March 2004
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I Supported Toymods
Location: Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered: March 2004
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Wed, 14 July 2004 11:35
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bump
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Location: Sydney
Registered: June 2004
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Wed, 14 July 2004 18:30
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sorry man lost track of your thread... it has to be metal because the expansion of the metal has an absolute minor role in the transfer of the heat...
this is how it works... as the exhaust gas travels out the exhaust some of it goes up the choke pipe, as the exhaust gas returns to the carby it heats up a metal rod/pin within the choke as well as all the metal around it... now as the pipe heats up and expands it therefore allows more gas/heat to travel to the choke which in turn opens it faster (but it is covered with a rubber hose as to prevent heat loss to atmosphere VERY IMPORTANT, you want the heat to rech the carby and not get lost on the way there and end up cold at destination WHAT A WASTE OF TIME IF THAT HAPPENS)... now as the rod heats up it obviously expands but it is situated in an area where it can only expand upwards more than outwards... although the whole carby is expanding from the heat it is dismissable to the whole effect cause the metal material this expanding rod is made from expands faster than the carby... as it expands it pushes the air inlet valve pin causing the air intake to increase as the circular valve turns... but this will cause the air going down the carby to be hot and you always hear everyone wanting cold air going in, however you DO NOT want cold cold air going in as it wont combust like warmer air does... you need to find a middle point between too hot and too cold and thats where the metal material plays its part and to prevent the air going in geting too hot, then the exhaust pipe running to choke gets blocked off by what you could call a stopper which is part of the choke rod i mentioned earlier... as the rod rises, this stopper also rises and blocks the exhaust gas entry point stopping the gas to continue to enter but the gas will still try to travel through and that allows the stopper to stay hot and raised and continually blocking more gas/heat getting through... as i mentioned all the materials used are designed for perfect temperature conditions and therefore that allows the air going into the carby to be the right temp, the carby itself to be of good temp and when it all meets up at the combustion chamber it is a good combustible temp too
now technically the choke is just used as the car warms up so that there isnt too much fuel or air going in while the car is cold but that adversely affects the rest of the carby functionality as i just mentioned
SO BASICALLY AT THE END OF THE DAY YOU WANT METAL AND NOT RUBBER but i thought the background would help you in future cause this concept is used throughout the whole... what you should always consider is this:-
- the thing being change/replace/gotten rid of or whatever the case maybe, what is it used for? where is it connected? why is it connected there? what goes through it? what is the ppurpose of what goes through it? AND what possible/probably/adverse affect does it have to the surrounding area
in the case of the choke it governs correct air/fuel mixture at certain temps (main reson for having it), but also adversely keeps carby at good external/internal temp, air intake at certain temp, ie, it was designed for one thing but affects it surrounds too and toyota would have taken that into consideration when designing and building/manufacturing the car
also like the radiator fan... it sucks the heat from the radiator but at the same time it also keeps the engine bay and external parts and external of the engine cool by helping to circulate air around... designed to aid in cooling radiator, but also helps keep the bay and engine cool externally, while the coolant keeps the engine cool internally
EVERYTHING IS INTERCONNECTED, EVERYTHING IS CONNECTED WITH SPECIFIC MATERIAL FOR A REASON AND NOT CAUSE IT LOKS GOOD OR THE FEEL LIKE IT OR WHATEVER!!!!!!!!!
finally i know this is alot but when i help i like to really help and i hope this does
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Location: Sydney
Registered: June 2004
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I Supported Toymods
Location: Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered: March 2004
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Thu, 15 July 2004 11:23
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thanks heaps fade-e
that should keep me goin for a while.
i new the choke workings but didn realise it still played a part after the motor had warmed up... learn something new everyday.
set the timing with timing light. 10 degress btdc
whats this 80degress you say? my vaccum advance isnt running atm ... puntured diaghram.... replacing saturday.
Cheers
Nathan
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Location: Sydney
Registered: June 2004
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Thu, 15 July 2004 13:36
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OK if that is the case then you may have to readjust the timing once you have fixed the advance... when adjusting the timing technically you should remove thevacuum hose and block both sides, on the advance turner it has three lines (advance, retard and centre being stock)... set it to stock, have car running at 80deg (running temp, thats what i meant by it) and then adjust to 10deg BTDC. once that is done adjust idle to 600rpm and check timing again (but it shouldnt change, its only a just in case thing)... after that return vacuum hose from carby to advance, now it shouldnt really change the timing but it might. if this happens then with the advance turner set it back to 10deg BTDC (if anything it would be a couple turns, but most likely no turns)
after that all you can do is turn off car, wait for it to cool properly andstart car and see if continues to backfire... hopefully it wont and all is good... then what you do is take car for a drive and see how it is...
NOW THIS IS A WHAT I DO THING AND NOT BIBLE! but if all is good then give it a flat chat and see how she picks up. if yopur happy then all is good but if you feel its not good when its floored then you have to do the timing all over again but instead of haveing the advance turner at stock have it all the way out to the line. set it and then do the floor thing again and see if there is any difference.
also with the flat chat that is another story we can get into if you like. its basically about how to adjust the pedal for correct positioning but if you have never touched it in your life then there shouldnt be any worry to get into this. on the other hand if you want to know then just ask!!!
CHEERS... finally this thread is getting a bit off subject so in future just PM me and keep this stuff off the threads... easier for both us and im sure everyone else would appreciate the 1 less thread
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Location: Colac, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Fri, 16 July 2004 02:24
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just gfet rid of the auto choke and put a manual one in , and while your at it swap your secondaries to mecnahixcal opening instead of vacum !
Both jobs arent hard to do if you still have the stock aisan carby on there
( ie less than an hour each )
Youll notice improvments especially with the secondaries almost immediatly ( aisan carb sucks balls - but it can be improved by taking off some of the crap )
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Location: Sydney
Registered: June 2004
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Fri, 16 July 2004 02:33
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Classique71 i would agree with you there BUT he has asked the question and therfore i have answered
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Location: Colac, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Fri, 16 July 2004 02:47
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Np - just throwing in another oppinion to assess
I tried for ages to get that auto choke working properly + the secondaries - but found it was a heap easier to just turf it + gut the thing.
that Aisan is one of the biggest downfalls for the 2t's performance .. the tech guys who advised that econocarb to be put on need to be Lynched!
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Location: Dandenong Ranges, VIC
Registered: July 2004
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Sun, 18 July 2004 11:45
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how do you go about converting that carb to manual choke/secondaries? i assume you'd need to swap the linkages for a cable...
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Location: Colac, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 2T Choke issues
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Mon, 19 July 2004 02:42
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choke is easy - remove the plastic cover - youll see the guts that operate it off the auto chokey bit - turf all that - and adapt in a choke cable from repco or supercheap - 1/2 an hour job
Converting the secondaries are a little bit more difficult - once again - follow the linkages around the back of the carby off the vaccum unit - youill see the adjustor screw for whwere the secondarues open _ the arm or something like that that controls the opening in cionjunction with the first throat ..
All i did is found out what operates the secondaries - remove all the vaccum stuff including the bar that gies up into the carby ( has someething to do with the throttle getting stuck - dangerous ) and then attach all the bits needed with wire - very dodgy - but it was effective and acutalyy worked ..
Sorry about being so vague - its been 2 yrs since i did this and the memorys faded - i need a carby here to show exactly how to do it if anyone wants to donate one to me for free - ill do a few pics etc
ps you dont need to change any of the linkages to the throttle pedal
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