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TA-022
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Glenmore Park, NSW
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March 2004
2T Choke issues Wed, 16 June 2004 13:20 Go to next message
Hey guys im rehashing this thread on a similar quetsion.
(Was ; where does choke hook upto?)

When i cold start the car the fast idle cam wont engage? also backfires out the carby under load until warmed up to operating temp (80 degrees) is this normal?
What is the likely cause of this? I got it on once last night out of about 15 attempts?

Other query is with the temperature coil spring in the choke housing. The spring end forms a hook kinda like a U shape. Now does the lever from the choke plate in the primary sit in the U or does the base of the U push the lever?

If any of this is unclear let me know and ill snap a few photos.

Also where can i get the exhaust manifold to choke hose? Or what type of hosing can i use.... cause i assume rubber would just melt.

Cheers

Nathan

[Updated on: Wed, 14 July 2004 11:19]

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alex_ta22
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Re: 2T Where does the choke hook up to? Thu, 17 June 2004 07:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
exhaust manifold i believe...
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Re: 2T Where does the choke hook up to? Thu, 17 June 2004 07:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
if standing nexst to car on carby side, then on the back of the carby (would be left side) there is the choke (from what i have seen they are always block plastic cover)... you will see a place on the choke to screw the pipe to. that then goes to the exhaust manifold...

temp is water... where the heater pipe goes (front passenger side of motor) there is a connector for the temp...

to know the difference if water temp or oil temp on car you look at the little pic on guage... if looks like oil can then there you go, otherwise the other pic (to me) looks like a thermometer in water

hope this helps you
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TA-022
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Re: 2T Where does the choke hook up to? Thu, 17 June 2004 09:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thanks guys ... big help.

So i assume its the exhaust gas temperature that governs wether the choke is on or off.

Will a rubber type hose do or will it have to be metal because of exhaust manifold temperatures?
Cheers

Nathan

[Updated on: Thu, 17 June 2004 09:39]

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TA-022
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Re: 2T Choke issues Wed, 14 July 2004 11:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bump
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Re: 2T Choke issues Wed, 14 July 2004 18:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sorry man lost track of your thread... it has to be metal because the expansion of the metal has an absolute minor role in the transfer of the heat...

this is how it works... as the exhaust gas travels out the exhaust some of it goes up the choke pipe, as the exhaust gas returns to the carby it heats up a metal rod/pin within the choke as well as all the metal around it... now as the pipe heats up and expands it therefore allows more gas/heat to travel to the choke which in turn opens it faster (but it is covered with a rubber hose as to prevent heat loss to atmosphere VERY IMPORTANT, you want the heat to rech the carby and not get lost on the way there and end up cold at destination WHAT A WASTE OF TIME IF THAT HAPPENS)... now as the rod heats up it obviously expands but it is situated in an area where it can only expand upwards more than outwards... although the whole carby is expanding from the heat it is dismissable to the whole effect cause the metal material this expanding rod is made from expands faster than the carby... as it expands it pushes the air inlet valve pin causing the air intake to increase as the circular valve turns... but this will cause the air going down the carby to be hot and you always hear everyone wanting cold air going in, however you DO NOT want cold cold air going in as it wont combust like warmer air does... you need to find a middle point between too hot and too cold and thats where the metal material plays its part and to prevent the air going in geting too hot, then the exhaust pipe running to choke gets blocked off by what you could call a stopper which is part of the choke rod i mentioned earlier... as the rod rises, this stopper also rises and blocks the exhaust gas entry point stopping the gas to continue to enter but the gas will still try to travel through and that allows the stopper to stay hot and raised and continually blocking more gas/heat getting through... as i mentioned all the materials used are designed for perfect temperature conditions and therefore that allows the air going into the carby to be the right temp, the carby itself to be of good temp and when it all meets up at the combustion chamber it is a good combustible temp too

now technically the choke is just used as the car warms up so that there isnt too much fuel or air going in while the car is cold but that adversely affects the rest of the carby functionality as i just mentioned

SO BASICALLY AT THE END OF THE DAY YOU WANT METAL AND NOT RUBBER but i thought the background would help you in future cause this concept is used throughout the whole... what you should always consider is this:-

- the thing being change/replace/gotten rid of or whatever the case maybe, what is it used for? where is it connected? why is it connected there? what goes through it? what is the ppurpose of what goes through it? AND what possible/probably/adverse affect does it have to the surrounding area

in the case of the choke it governs correct air/fuel mixture at certain temps (main reson for having it), but also adversely keeps carby at good external/internal temp, air intake at certain temp, ie, it was designed for one thing but affects it surrounds too and toyota would have taken that into consideration when designing and building/manufacturing the car

also like the radiator fan... it sucks the heat from the radiator but at the same time it also keeps the engine bay and external parts and external of the engine cool by helping to circulate air around... designed to aid in cooling radiator, but also helps keep the bay and engine cool externally, while the coolant keeps the engine cool internally

EVERYTHING IS INTERCONNECTED, EVERYTHING IS CONNECTED WITH SPECIFIC MATERIAL FOR A REASON AND NOT CAUSE IT LOKS GOOD OR THE FEEL LIKE IT OR WHATEVER!!!!!!!!!

finally i know this is alot but when i help i like to really help and i hope this does Very Happy
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Re: 2T Choke issues Wed, 14 July 2004 18:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Quote:

Hey guys im rehashing this thread on a similar quetsion.
(Was ; where does choke hook upto?)


one side on exhaust manifold, other where i told you previously

Quote:


When i cold start the car the fast idle cam wont engage? also backfires out the carby under load until warmed up to operating temp (80 degrees) is this normal?


that means internal of choke is not adjusted correctly, backfiring is timing slightly off (check advance is set correctly! how did you check timing??? VERY IMPORTANT!!! 80deg is correct

Quote:


What is the likely cause of this? I got it on once last night out of about 15 attempts?


timing mate, TIMING... also WITHOUT TRYING TO START THE CAR take off air filter and press accelerator to see if fuel being fed, air intake valve turns

Quote:


Other query is with the temperature coil spring in the choke housing. The spring end forms a hook kinda like a U shape. Now does the lever from the choke plate in the primary sit in the U or does the base of the U push the lever?


ill look at my choke and see what i can disipher and get back to you on this, cause i dont use the choke on my engine EVENTHOUGH i should Smile

Quote:


Also where can i get the exhaust manifold to choke hose? Or what type of hosing can i use.... cause i assume rubber would just melt.



you can use brake line piping but would need to be made, try a wrecker Laughing but still its worth a try

I FEEL LIKE A GRANDPA TEACHING HIS GRANDKID WHAT TO DO, NO OFFENCE TO YOU WHATSOEVER BUT IV JUST REALISED WHILE ANSWERING YOUR Qs THAT I HAVE BEEN WORKING IN THESE MOTORS FOR 7YRS NOW WHOW Shocked

but now im the kid when it comes to the 3tgte Laughing but i hope to change that Very Happy

[Updated on: Wed, 14 July 2004 18:53]

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TA-022
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Re: 2T Choke issues Thu, 15 July 2004 11:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thanks heaps fade-e

that should keep me goin for a while.

i new the choke workings but didn realise it still played a part after the motor had warmed up... learn something new everyday.

set the timing with timing light. 10 degress btdc

whats this 80degress you say? my vaccum advance isnt running atm ... puntured diaghram.... replacing saturday.

Cheers

Nathan
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Re: 2T Choke issues Thu, 15 July 2004 13:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
OK if that is the case then you may have to readjust the timing once you have fixed the advance... when adjusting the timing technically you should remove thevacuum hose and block both sides, on the advance turner it has three lines (advance, retard and centre being stock)... set it to stock, have car running at 80deg (running temp, thats what i meant by it) and then adjust to 10deg BTDC. once that is done adjust idle to 600rpm and check timing again (but it shouldnt change, its only a just in case thing)... after that return vacuum hose from carby to advance, now it shouldnt really change the timing but it might. if this happens then with the advance turner set it back to 10deg BTDC (if anything it would be a couple turns, but most likely no turns)

after that all you can do is turn off car, wait for it to cool properly andstart car and see if continues to backfire... hopefully it wont and all is good... then what you do is take car for a drive and see how it is...

NOW THIS IS A WHAT I DO THING AND NOT BIBLE! but if all is good then give it a flat chat and see how she picks up. if yopur happy then all is good but if you feel its not good when its floored then you have to do the timing all over again but instead of haveing the advance turner at stock have it all the way out to the line. set it and then do the floor thing again and see if there is any difference.

also with the flat chat that is another story we can get into if you like. its basically about how to adjust the pedal for correct positioning but if you have never touched it in your life then there shouldnt be any worry to get into this. on the other hand if you want to know then just ask!!!

CHEERS... finally this thread is getting a bit off subject so in future just PM me and keep this stuff off the threads... easier for both us and im sure everyone else would appreciate the 1 less thread Smile
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Classique71
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Colac, Victoria
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May 2002
Re: 2T Choke issues Fri, 16 July 2004 02:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
just gfet rid of the auto choke and put a manual one in , and while your at it swap your secondaries to mecnahixcal opening instead of vacum !

Both jobs arent hard to do if you still have the stock aisan carby on there

( ie less than an hour each )

Youll notice improvments especially with the secondaries almost immediatly ( aisan carb sucks balls - but it can be improved by taking off some of the crap )
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fade-e
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Re: 2T Choke issues Fri, 16 July 2004 02:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Classique71 i would agree with you there BUT he has asked the question and therfore i have answered
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Classique71
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Re: 2T Choke issues Fri, 16 July 2004 02:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Np - just throwing in another oppinion to assess Smile

I tried for ages to get that auto choke working properly + the secondaries - but found it was a heap easier to just turf it + gut the thing.

that Aisan is one of the biggest downfalls for the 2t's performance .. the tech guys who advised that econocarb to be put on need to be Lynched!
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greenta22
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Location:
Dandenong Ranges, VIC
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July 2004
Re: 2T Choke issues Sun, 18 July 2004 11:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
how do you go about converting that carb to manual choke/secondaries? i assume you'd need to swap the linkages for a cable...
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Classique71
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Re: 2T Choke issues Mon, 19 July 2004 02:42 Go to previous message
choke is easy - remove the plastic cover - youll see the guts that operate it off the auto chokey bit - turf all that - and adapt in a choke cable from repco or supercheap - 1/2 an hour job

Converting the secondaries are a little bit more difficult - once again - follow the linkages around the back of the carby off the vaccum unit - youill see the adjustor screw for whwere the secondarues open _ the arm or something like that that controls the opening in cionjunction with the first throat ..

All i did is found out what operates the secondaries - remove all the vaccum stuff including the bar that gies up into the carby ( has someething to do with the throttle getting stuck - dangerous ) and then attach all the bits needed with wire - very dodgy - but it was effective and acutalyy worked ..

Sorry about being so vague - its been 2 yrs since i did this and the memorys faded - i need a carby here to show exactly how to do it if anyone wants to donate one to me for free - ill do a few pics etc


ps you dont need to change any of the linkages to the throttle pedal
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