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gtr_gaga
Regular


Location:
Sunshine coast, QLD
Registered:
May 2004
rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 08:09 Go to next message
Hey all. I have been quoted 1200-1500 for rust removal on my sprinter. here is a list of places the rust is...:

-above windscreen... includes new windscreen and seals fitted.
- as you open the drivers door, on the left on the pillar there are about 2 or so spots which havent gone through but are quite deep
-where the wheel arches are
-on the back of the roof in the little divet in which the hatch folds into, but not the channels down the sides.
- under the bumper on the lip that holds it up and the seams around there... about 7 places.

Is this price good? it inclueds the new windscreen and seals and rust removal and repaint of repaired areas. Im thinking i could do it myself and save 1000. can anyone tell me the proceedure for removing rust in these areas?, what to use etc?

thanks
Gavin
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lilcrash
Forums Junkie


Location:
ipswich queensland
Registered:
April 2004
Re: rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 09:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
do it urself for almost free is the good option.

cut out the rust, cut sum metal to put in and weld it up if, it needs it run a lil bit of filler to make it smooth

have fun
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people100
Forums Junkie


Location:
Rocklea qld
Registered:
February 2003
 
Re: rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 09:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
remember when u weld tyhe new metal in to recess it a little bit. last thing u wanna do is try to weld it in flat and then warp the metal a bit and it sticks out..Then u just put a tiny layer of filler over it and bobs your uncle.
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fade-e
Forums Junkie


Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
Re: rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 11:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
if the ruist hasnt gone straight through then just use a grinder to get it out. those places that has gone through the cut it out and weld pieces as mentioned above.

the most expensive part of rust repair is the reshaping of metal. it takes time and patience to shape the metal right.

when cutting the holes as people100 said hit the area back a bitso that it sinks back. put the new piece over it and ONLY do 2 tacks on either side (that way if its wrong in any way its easy to grind back off). once satisfied with the way it sits continue to weld round (what i recommend is to weld spots on opposite sides till they meet, ie, spot on top then below, then next to first and back to bottom one and so on. that will prevent the warping people100 mentioned. once this is done grind the high spots back and get it as smooth as possible (not perfect so dont try). after that where the welds are just tap them back to recess them a little and bog a light coat, primer and BAM

the most important thing to remember is PATIENCE cause rust can send you insane Laughing thats why im getting my mate to do it for me, but he is a panel beater Rolling Eyes Very Happy

[Updated on: Mon, 18 October 2004 13:17]

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rthy
Forums Junkie


Location:
Melbourne - NthSubs
Registered:
January 2004
wtf is a jabber? a punch line?
Re: rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 11:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
anyone tried that fiberglass putty type thing and fiberglass repair kit?
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fade-e
Forums Junkie


Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
Re: rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 12:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rthy wrote on Mon, 18 October 2004 21:57

anyone tried that fiberglass putty type thing and fiberglass repair kit?


it is designed for fibreglass, ie jet skis, etc...

you can fibreglass it and it will do you fine for the short term but will fall out once the rust grows more... also fibreglass is a C!@T to work with
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STR8 2.8
Forums Junkie


Location:
Sydney
Registered:
February 2003
Re: rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 12:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
fade-e wrote on Mon, 18 October 2004 21:41

if the ruist hasnt gone straight through then just use a grinder to get it out. those places that has gone through the cut it out and weld pieces as mentioned above.

the most expensive part of rust repair is the reshaping of metal. it takes time and patience to shape the metal right.

when cutting the holes as Cool1 said hit the area back a bitso that it sinks back. put the new piece over it and ONLY do 2 tacks on either side (that way if its wrong in any way its easy to grind back off). once satisfied with the way it sits continue to weld round (what i recommend is to weld spots on opposite sides till they meet, ie, spot on top then below, then next to first and back to bottom one and so on. that will prevent the warping Cool1 mentioned. once this is done grind the high spots back and get it as smooth as possible (not perfect so dont try). after that where the welds are just tap them back to recess them a little and bog a light coat, primer and BAM

the most important thing to remember is PATIENCE cause rust can send you insane Laughing thats why im getting my mate to do it for me, but he is a panel beater Rolling Eyes Very Happy

where is cool1? people100 wrote that...
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fade-e
Forums Junkie


Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
Re: rust removal Mon, 18 October 2004 13:16 Go to previous message
Embarassed OOOOOOOOOPPPPPPPPPPPPPSSSSSSSSSS dont know where i got Cool1 from, must have read another post that he replied to and it was stuck in my head.

apologies to Cool1 and people100... it has been updated to reflect correct person

[Updated on: Mon, 18 October 2004 13:18]

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