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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Wed, 27 April 2005 14:26
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well as i was putting the coolant in the car today after rebuilding the engine (for the n'th time, i'm starting to get to know each intimate part of the 18rgeu)i got a leak coming from the hose that adjoins the bypass pipe that goes across the front of the engine and into the thermostat housing.
when i pulled the rubber hose off, to my horrer it looks like i have pinched the joining pipe conected to the thermostat housing.
so is it possible to take the existing one out and then replace it with another one?
it was fairly rusted and weak when i tried to carefully ream it back out using a pointed end of a piece of wood. sand it ended up splitting.
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Thu, 28 April 2005 08:32
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anyone? 
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Location:
S.E suberbs, Vic
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Thu, 28 April 2005 14:14
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can u take a pic?
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Fri, 27 May 2005 13:28
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kind of i don't want to take the pipe off because it is sealed at the moment (you can see where the clamp used to be) but as i need to drain the water out and fush it to put proper coolant in (rather than just demineralised water by itself) then i will show you the tube that is connected to it.
i assume most thermostat housings have a similar setup but somehow the metal pipe is fused into the housing. so is it possible to replace this pipe???
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Location:
S.E suberbs, Vic
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Fri, 27 May 2005 23:05
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I will have a look at my friends engine hopefully in the next few days and I will get back to you.
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Location:
Rocklea qld
Registered:
February 2003
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Re: fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Sun, 29 May 2005 07:43
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NO u cannot just remove the pipe and put a new one in. they are a pressed in item. i would be taking it somewhere and getting it drilled out and a piece of alloy pipe welded on.
also in relation to the other tpoic on your idling question. that looks to be a 22re dizzy setup inside the 18rgu dizzy (22re has 2 vacuum advance points) possible problem is maybe u have used the wrong weights etc in the dizzy or stretched the springs so when its could and needs the timing to be spot on it may actually think its retarded a bit and therefor idling low. either try advancing the dizzy a touch to see how startup if or get the dizzy remapped.
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
September 2003
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Re: fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Thu, 09 June 2005 13:19
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ok i had an opportunity to have the other pipe removed and a thread tapped into the hole instead.
i got one of those brass fittings at Motormate and screwed it in. looked like it worked a treat.
filled it up but i got a small leak where the fitting threads into the housing (curse i wish i had a camera, a picture means a thousand words).
anyways simple question really.
what is reccommended to make a good watertight seal between the 2 threads?
i tried 'Stag' because that was the onlly stuff i had lying around but it wasn't successful.
i thought of that white tape stuff you use on fixing water taps with.
is there anything else reccommended???
the fitting is brass and the housing is alloy so if this is an issue le tme know now.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: fixing water inlet pipes on the thermostat housing (18r geu)
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Thu, 09 June 2005 22:29
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there is a permatex product called "Permatex High Temprature Thread Sealant" thats what i have used in all my threads, never had a problem, its $20 a tube but is non hardening {unless its used on an actual joint} so the bottle will last 20 years.
just put a bit on the thread and wipe it around the thread and u r set.
or use permatex 515, but be warned it sets fast, and very hard, i was slow to put the joint into the back of the 18RG head and the outlet was facing the wrong way and i had to use a rattle gun to remove it, and it had only been inserted 20 seconds earlier
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