Toymods Car Club Inc: Tech & Conversions => overheating cressida

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thechuckster
Forums Junkie

Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003

Re: overheating cressida (sorry - v.long)	Mon, 26 May 2003 14:57

before you dump the motor, why not try a few more checks (sorry if you've already done them)? - are all the plugs burning the same (maybe one of more pots is running lean - could be dodgy injector or ignition) (is motor running ok before boil-off?) - any oil in the water? or when it boils over - any sticky/smelly foamy shit? (head gasket?) - any water in oil (off-white gack on underside of oil filler cap, or on dipstick (head gasket) - maybe thermostat is starting to fail (might be suddenly closing after being heated up for a few hours) - have you tried it without any thermostat (not advisable for long term) - or with a thermostat with a few extra [small] bypass holes drilled in it (longer to heat up but safer if spring/wax-pellet fails) - clutch in fan centre buggered (is constantly slipping and when heated too much slips even more) - tho've you've already addressed this - i thought they were sealed units? - fan belt? is not too loose? - at high or low revs? maybe a combination of fan belt, fan, radiator & corroded vanes in water pump - not enough cooling capacity after everything is at highway temps - and when coasting at low revs. - is fuel lines getting too hot (heat soak from something) or fuel pressure regulator failing from heat? so engine runs lean? - is fuel tank near to empty when overheating? so returned fuel heats it up, or is sucking air (either making engine run lean) - maybe overflow tank is letting air return instead of water only - so when radiator sucks in enough air, pressure in cooling system drops and water suddenly boils? this would only happen after cooling system has pushed out a fair amount of water (e.g. a long drive) - leak in piping feeding heater? - was radiator reverse flushed? a few overheats/boil-overs will refill the radiator with rust/particulates/crap from the engine block? Plus regular occurences will remove oxide coating from iron block leading to greater production of oxide material (e.g. the more boil offs, the more corrosion, the more crap released into water) - after a boil-off event, you should dump the coolant as it will have picked up excessive amounts of rust/particulates - retaining that liquid will further add to any radiator blockages. Coolant also not perform at well (lower ethyl glycol %) - if you refilled from tank/bore water or toowoomba tap water, it may have too much crap that's reacted with the coolant or alloy bits. - clean motor down with soapy degreaser and H/P water (to remove any rust stains) then stop and look for leaks as soon as temp starts to rise (e.g. don't wait for steam) just city driving is losing small amount of water - then point finger at recovery system. Proper recovery system should keep radiator at 100% full at all times. sudden rise in temp probably rules out electrical (ign or efi) or fuel. I would concentrate on plumbing... or maybe it's just some Toowoomba curse... the place really does suck (having been a poverty-stricken student there). thechuckster. [Report message to a moderator]

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