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oldcorollas
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Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
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January 2003

Re: questions about dry sumps!

Fri, 18 July 2003 03:54

ae86drift wrote on Wed, 16 July 2003 22:42

now what parts exactly are required?
how much is the total cost?
what type of oil is reccommended to use?
what are the benefits of a drysump (with cooler, breather and catchcan) oil system?
also what does an oilbreather do?
and is this a legal conversion for road regod cars?
thanks guys, ive googled and read bill sherwood's site, but still questions arise for you motorheads Very Happy

what parts? as a minimum you will need a two stage and one pressure stage. if you want more pickup points, then you need extra scavenge stages (you need more scavenge stages as the oil comes out frothy). you'll need inline filters before each stage and also a couple of main normal filters (to clean oil further and need two to reduce restriction). you'll need an oil/air seperator (which needs to be vented to get rid of the air in the froth) and then a tank for the oil, or you can integrate the two things. since the scavenge pumps suck out a lot of oil, you'll also need to properly vent the engine, so that air can get in! otherwise you have very low pressures in the block, but the oil won't come out fast enough.
you also need to identify where the oil will be under accel/cornering loads, so you can modify the sump/head to fit pickups.

it would also help to chuck in an oil thermostat and cooler while you are spending $$ Smile

check out
http://www.razorperformance.com/pumps.htm for some nice lookin pumps.
there is a 5 stage dry sump pump on ebay at starting for $1200.

total cost? if bought new, you're looking (at a guess) at around $3-4000+ total for 3/4 stage pump, lines, fittings, tanks, cooler etc. and also sump mod costs.

oil? good quality full synthetic is the only way to go for high dollar motors.

the only benefit of a drysump is that you keep oil in your bearings under high acceleration or side loading. 1G+ loading is needed really (at 1G side load, the oil will be at 45deg angle in the sump). in wet sump the oil moves away from thepickup, the pickup draws in air, your bearings starve, and your motor dies.

the negatives are, the obvious cost, and also parasitic drag on the motor. just been reading Smokey Yunicks 'power secrets' and while it is aimed at hicksville chebby builders, some things are useful... and he reckons that a dry sump system running at 7-8000rpm will take about 8-10 hp to drive it. compared to a normal oil pump of maybe 2-4hp.

you don't need a catchcan in a dry sump system as you don't get positive crank case pressure (since the scavenge sections pull a vacuum), and the breather is for getting air into the crankcase, rather than letting it out.

i very much doubt that a dry sump conversion on something not too exotic would not be legal, or at least be frowned upon by the RTA Wink

but that's not to say it is technically illegal. the RTA guidlines for LVM don't seem to mention it specifically (only had a quick flick tho).

no, i haven't installed a dry sump system, but i've spent the last week researching it Smile

.

Cya, Stewart

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