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Location:
Sutherland, Sydney
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Tue, 14 October 2003 11:35
 
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:P First of all, congratulations!!!
I've skimmed over what the guys have already said so I'll keep it short.
CLUTCH!
Direct Clutches in Brisbane. Don't waste your time and money elsewhere. Get it put in by whoever you like, but buy your clutch from them. Apart from knowing them- albeit indirectly-
I have tripped through their workshop. The guys are awesome at what they do...almost passionate!! They do the best twin plate for a GT4 in Aus.
I got a heavy sprung 5 puck Kevlar unit and I can drop the clutch at 7,000 and the only thing that slips are the tyres around the rims :) I used to run high boost and my old clutch (heavy duty from BD4's losers) would slip when flat changing at high revs from 3rd to 4th.
Unlike other puck jobbies I've had, this one doesn't shudder at all when taking off normally.
Direct Clutches:07 3862 2680
(conveniently placed near AUSSIE EXHAUSTS I believe, Albion)
Whiteline kit:
A lot cheaper getting the parts yourself. I think I should have gone for King springs and Bilsteins but the works kit is ok for the street I guess.
THE WHITELINE SWAY BAR KIT IS A MUST!!! having said that I might just point out that a standard Group A has a stiffer suspension setup than standard. It has different shock rates and heavier springs to match. It also has a thicker swaybars and from memory I can't tell you which but wen I was putting the "works" kit on either front or back was minimal although the Whiteline jobby was adjustable. Make sure you check those nuts and bolts as they don't give you much thread to play with and I lost a nut off the rear....VERY WOBBLY REAR END!
Konis are quite good if you screw them to full sport mode and dont hit any potholes...they're not too tough :(
I put the front camber kit on the front and decided that the rear camber kit was way way way not needed! I find I have to be doing 120+ before the back will creep at all. I went for a crazy late nite/early morning drift session around the Shire last wet patch and was very disappointed indeed. Sticks like shit to a blanket now. This car was definitely built for dirt.
Running -2° camber and that seems a happy medium.
Intercooler boiling????? what the??
Dude, flush your IC radiator and do a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (the red stuff) you can get it genuine from Toyota and is a bit pricey but you'd be suprised how far a 2L bottle will go. It's VERY important that you fill it properly and bleed the system (like brakes) for air otherwise you WILL get pump problems. does it cavatate like a prop on a boat??? dunno, ask someone smarter.
if your IC still bubbles like a dirty dog then maybe your pump is cactus. (you will hear some mild bubbling in the main radiator after a solid run which I'd say most are already :) Of course get a turbo timer and the your baby cool down, but not cook in 1 spot.
A lot of crew set their IC pump to spin non-stop. I have spoken to some crew who seemed quite technical on this matter and I tend to agree. They say that if it's constantly running then it heats up the water too much. You'd be suprised how little of it there is running round your IC lines. I would rather the pump came on,lets say when you were sitting at the lights, and gave the IC a fresh blast of cool water to counteract the lack of air flow wouldn't you?
Perhaps if somebody came up with something like the fuel pump mod in reverse so the IC could trickle around then pump normal when need.
Fuel pump mod:
A: I've done this and I feel the difference.
B: it's easy.
C: take out your Fuel pump relay from the fuse box (above air-con unit) and plug in a little insulated 12 gauge? wire (thick stuff) which you have conveniently made using simple male tongue plugs.
D: hey presto, your fuel pump will now run at full voltage constantly instead of switching from 9ish to 12ish when you put your foot down. This eliminates that split second glitch you feel and gives you better acceleration.
AUSSIE EXHAUSTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YES DO IT!!!!!
My car was the lucky guinea pig for Russell up there at Aussie. (Say hi to him from Steve anyone) As there were not many cheap of the shelf dump pipes available, I then realised that the stock turbo elbow REALLY sux!! (look at it!!) I worked with Russell to create a kick butt Dump pipe. I was worried at first as I had nobody to tell me what difference it would make and I had lots of people giving their opinions, most of which said I'd lose bottom end power. I found this to be rubbish and the extra performance gained from the Dump pipe alone was sheer joy. Turbo spooled up heaps quicker and I found it actually had better low down grunt...maybe coz the turbo spooled up quicker??? who cares! it just went heaps harder and that was the aim.
Russell has worked with a few other guys, including a great guy called Stasio, to create a quality full system. Off the shelf ST185/205 guys like Russell should be congratulated!!
I use MOBIL 1 every 5000k's and I'm strict about it. I also do a filter change but thats just me. Keep the oil up coz I believe I've screwed one of my engines through low oil level with sustained high G cornering. The 3SGTE could do with a dry sump or better baffling! The engine itself has quite a remarkable oil system that most mechanics are not aware of. Worth a damn good read through your engine manual!!
OK, upping the boost. (my opinion)
If you have a high flowed CT26 then forget about pumping up the boost too high. 18PSI with a high flowed turbo will chew your donk much sooner than later. It tends to run way too lean, giving you a damn fast ride:) On a stock blower you could run whatever your wallet will allow up to 18psi (Grp A fuel cut) but I wouldn't go past 13PSI for safety and longevity. You can run that without batting an eye. With an aftermarket computer (such as an EMS Stinger) then you can knock yourself out. Your only limited by your head and pistons so go 18psi no probs.
If you must get an EBC then get a good one. My "old" one I found spiked badly and allowed my engine to burn out the top then a piston coz I was foolish.
Let me know if anybody wants a GT4 Shell for a paddock basher or parts. I want to get rid of mine now. Mos, yours for free dude. Just pickup :) of course I'd have to make sure I kept the odd hub or diff for that price. Heck, you could take it straight down to the scrap metal joint and make a buck if you wanted!
I'm getting rid of my ST185 gearbox too. $300 and it's only done 29000klms. (I have 2 Grp A ones now :)
well thats all I can think of off the top of my head.
Have fun!!!
If you want the best GT4 mechanic in Brisbane, and good price, go to Warren Molloy Motorsport. Ask for Warren :)) He is also the man for conversions and one of the very rare breed who actually know how to wire up ECU's properly and at the right price, who can then offer you support when tuning unlike other tools who just plug it up (badly) then dont know enough about the system to help you with it.
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| | Subject | Poster | Date |
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New Grp A owner
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Hawk | Tue, 14 October 2003 04:09 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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lang | Tue, 14 October 2003 04:20 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Toobs | Tue, 14 October 2003 05:56 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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cam_RA40 | Tue, 14 October 2003 08:26 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Classique71 | Tue, 14 October 2003 08:35 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Classique71 | Tue, 14 October 2003 08:43 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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GT4_Steve | Tue, 14 October 2003 11:35 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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JustenGT4 | Wed, 15 October 2003 06:14 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Classique71 | Wed, 15 October 2003 07:46 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Squid | Fri, 17 October 2003 02:32 |
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Thanks
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Hawk | Fri, 17 October 2003 23:26 |
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Re: Thanks
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Classique71 | Sat, 18 October 2003 05:33 |
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New Grp A owner
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Hawk | Fri, 17 October 2003 23:27 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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cam_RA40 | Sat, 18 October 2003 02:45 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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cam_RA40 | Sat, 18 October 2003 02:46 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Classique71 | Sat, 18 October 2003 05:39 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Hawk | Sat, 18 October 2003 22:38 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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Classique71 | Sat, 18 October 2003 23:23 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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sikx5 | Tue, 05 October 2004 05:25 |
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Re: New Grp A owner
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stock12 | Mon, 18 October 2004 16:22 |
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