Author | Topic |
Location: Brisbane
Registered: February 2003
|
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Tue, 18 November 2003 02:51

|
 |
from my experience (and research)...
<ignition MAP>
if modifying car with ECU that uses MAP but doesn't know what positive manifold pressure means, then you will need some kind of boost retard on the timing and increased fuel delivery. only real solution is another ECU.
<ignition dizzi>
if modifying an old-school engine with dizzi (mech+vacuum advance) and lowering compression below standard, the dizzi needs to be modified to increase static advance, reduce total amount of mech advance, consider dumping vacuum advance or building something that retards timing during boost.
<pinging/detonation>
if ECU does not have some form of timing retard for pining/detotation control, then some other method needed (e.g. better ECU with sensors suitable for that particular engine, or water/methanol injection during >5psi boost)
<fuel delivery - EFI>
if converting old-school car to EFI, then an intank EFI pump or lift pump AND surge tank AND efi pump are requried - running out of fuel during boost will lean out engine or cut out altogether
<fuel delivery - carbi>
if adding suck-thru carb to old-school car, then remove existing fuel pump and put high volume, low pressure electric pump near tank - running out of fuel during boost will lean out engine or cut out altogether.
<fuel delivery>
consider upgrading fuel feed line to larger diameter unit - get a pro to do this if unsure as an under-car fire may be fatal.
<air supply>
try to get ONLY cool air feeding the air filter/carbi - re-use the cool-air duct if exists
<air filter>
the bigger the better, a choked air filter may cause the compressor to be sucked forward into the compresor housing and the turbine into the central housing - ruining the rotating bits and bearings instantly. If you don't destroy the turbo, you'll run very rich.
<disaster control>
if not using ECU to control fuel pump, build a simple safety device that cuts power to fuel pump if oil pressure drops to zero OR if tacho is not getting trigger from the coil (some celicas will have a wire from the tacho to AirCon controller to indicate engine speed or if engine is running, in my car is 7-8 volts on idle, if falls below idle level, cut fuel)
<oil temp>
if possible get an oil cooler for engine. cheap alternative is a transmission cooler in oil line between oil take-off point and turbo.
<cooling system general>
replace existing temp sesnor - is good insurance in case existing unit is flakey. Get decent cooling fluid - do not use cheap shit.
<cooling system preparation>
if not rebuilding engine, then aggressively flush cooling system until is clean - the increased heat load will encourage deposited corrosion to lift off metal, float around (reducing cooling efficiency) and eventually block radiator (go back to 'start', buy another engine)
<cooling system turbo>
will add extra stresses to cooling system - don't use an 2nd-hand radiator from the wreckers - get your flushed and recored if nessacary. it will also limit failure of the tank seals if rebuilt by a radiator specialist.
<cooling system fans>
the factory cowl/fan for old-school engines are satisfactory if radiator is in good condition and viscous hub is functioning properly - replace either if stuffed as they are cheaper than replacing cooked engine. BUT, consider a mix of old-fan on inside, and thermo fans out front.
<driveshaft>
get checked, rebalanced and bearings replaced if needed.
<research>
spend hours (or even days) of your time searching the internet (not just toymods) about turbos and EFI. A lot of EFI and turbo sites have readable tech articles, some are contradictory, a lot are overseas but it will improve your general knowledge about the subject. Go to google.com (or dogpile.com or ...) and search for "turbo" and "automotive" and other word variants. Broadband net-access will make this less painful.
<research>
visit other car forums - someone else has probably done what you're considering,
<home>
prepare to accumulate lots of unwanted parts and tools etc. it is likely that you'll change tac mid-project and end up with a whole lot of spare parts and unused stuff (to which you partner/family/flatmates will inkindly refer to as 'junk' and 'shit' and may prove to be the nemesis of your relationship). 
charles.
[Updated on: Tue, 18 November 2003 02:56]
|
|
|
| Subject | Poster | Date |
 |
please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Byatch | Mon, 17 November 2003 23:12 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Lambolica | Mon, 17 November 2003 23:17 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Lambolica | Mon, 17 November 2003 23:34 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Skip | Mon, 17 November 2003 23:54 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Skip | Mon, 17 November 2003 23:56 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Lambolica | Tue, 18 November 2003 00:20 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Byatch | Tue, 18 November 2003 00:07 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
Byatch | Tue, 18 November 2003 01:08 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
thechuckster | Tue, 18 November 2003 02:51 |
 |
Re: please contribute to my online forced induction guide
|
optionUP | Tue, 18 November 2003 04:59 |