Toymods Car Club Inc: Tech & Conversions => Potential 2JZ-GE Atmo Power Gains

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gianttomato
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Re: Potential 2JZ-GE Atmo Power Gains	Wed, 26 November 2003 04:17

If you wish to remain naturally aspirated, then there are 5 main areas you ought to concentrate on: intake, headwork, camshafts, compression, and exhaust. A crappy cold air intake and a cat back exhaust don't really cut it as they don't address the real issue - they do little to assist flow thru the motor. I'd be suprised if you got any more than 5 hp. Have you dynoed the car to see what the AF mixtures are like with the standard ECU? If they are close, then a little Nintendo style, piggyback, pretty lights ECU tuneable at only 5 rpm points will do nothing. I suggest this as a more fruitful path: Intake mods may be as simple as some off the shelf CAI (in which case expect little gain) or as extensive as 55mm individual throttle bodies (as on the 400 hp Options Supra). I have demonstrated that the 2JZ has restrictive exhaust ports. Here is another place to gain some horsepower (particularly in conjuction with appropriate camshafts). The standard cams are relatively low lift units and have a relatively short duration with not a lot of overlap. Cams are tricky to get and as I'm sure you are aware most of the advertised cams are for the GTE. That's fine for the intake side but the exhaust cam lacks the gear drive for the distributor. That said, even a bigger intake cam alone will provide improvements. A compression increase will provide gains in power and torque. You could achieve it by milling a bit off the head (0.8mm will increase comp to about 10.8:1) or via custom forged pistons (preferable). You could also mill the block and piston crowns as this will decrease the central dish. You should be able to run up to about 12:1 on 98RON unleaded here, but I'd strongly advise that you talk to an engine builder specialised in multivalve engines (the Yank Iron guys will freak that you are already running 10:1). I would strongly recommend a set of custom headers. Diameter of primaries at least 1.75" and around 330 mm long, tri-Y design, the secondaries being 2 or 2.25" and 600 mm long and finally collecting into a 2.5" exhaust. After that just run a 2.5" system - that's plenty big. Other things that will aid with engine response included lightening the crank - there is a lot of excess weight there that doesn't contribute to the strength of the crank. Lance from T04r.com suggests the 2JZGTE (and GE as they are the same) conrods need little/no work. I have had mine shotpeened and will be fitting ARP rod bolts for security. Of course, to get this mess to work, you will need an aftermarket ECU. I suggest something other than the Playstation you suggested. I will also say this - sell up and buy a GTE. A bleed valve costs $20. [Report message to a moderator]

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