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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
August 2003
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Re: internals of the 3TGTEU
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Fri, 19 March 2004 01:03
 
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Hi Tanman, sorry to hear that your 3T-GTE isn't too healthy at the moment... but I guess it gives a good excuse to upgrade!
I have seen a few 3T-GTEs blow a piston cylinder #3, & others on #1. I think there a way too many factors to determine why a particular cylinder may blow... I'd say it would be more worthwhile in working out how to prevent it happening in the first place though.
At least the one good thing about the 3T-GTE when it blows a piston, it does it "nicely" so that you don't end up destroying a whole heap of other things.
I'd say your planned modifications sound like the making of a strong engine to me. I would probably choose a different turbo, but it all depends on your budget & what you want to do with it.
To answer your questions, it would be good to know what you are going to be using the car for & some rough idea on how much you are willing to spend on things.
In general though:
1) Sump - The 3T-GTE has a pretty good oil supply system, the key here would be to make sure any crank "windage" is kept to a minimum & to make sure you always have a good pickup of oil, that is if you are planning to be going around corners fast, you would want to make sure oil isn't going to "slosh" around too much.
Depending on what you are planning to do with the car, there are a few things you could do here to ensure a good oil flow under all conditions.
2) Fuel rail - I am currently designing a direct LPG injection fuel rail for my 3T-GTE. There are a few factors that need to be considered here, for me heat is a big problem & can cause the LPG to start vapourising eariler than expected.
I would say though that the standard 3T-GTE rail should be able to handle the fuel supply at around normal fuel pressure.
Once again, depends on what you are planning to do.. for example running a 1.x:1 Malpassi can add extra factors to fuel rail & distribution requirements.
3) Inlet volume size, I would focus on air velocity first.
Just remember the 300ft/sec rule.. you don't want to get your airspeed any higher than this.
First you need to calculate calculate your total engine's airspeed = (cid x rpm x 0.5 x Ev) / 1728
So for your engine:
cid = 110 (Standard 3T-GTE)
rpm = 7000 (you could go higher or lower)
Ev = .85 (lets say that you have a well designed engine)
That would mean the airspeed for a naturally aspirated 3T-GTE would be around 190 cfm.
If you were running 1bar boost, you need to add the pressure ratio of 2 (give or take for efficiencies)
So that would give you an airspeed for a turboed 3T-GTE of 380 cfm
Now to caluclate what the air velocity would be through your throttle body lets say its 65mm (2.559").
Using Pr2 to give the section area, you get 4.019 inches 2
You work out air velocity by = airflow rate (seconds) / section area.
So for your engine with 380cfm that would be:
(380/60) / (4.019 /144)
= 6.3 / .02791488
= 225 ft/sec which is good.
If you had a 40 mm throttle body at the same cc & boost it would be 366 ft/sec which is too fast.
So do some maths, & get this right first. You will need to work out your:
Cubic Capacity
Redline
Boost
& then go from there.
I just realised this has been a very long post... I hope you made it this far, & found it somewhat useful. 
Cheers,
3T-GTE
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