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Location:
Somewhere on a dirt bowl ...
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: can i bolt a 4AGE head 16 or 20 valve to a 4AFC block?
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Mon, 09 August 2004 16:08
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No need to get testy dude.
All that i'm saying is what i found when i done the swap.
I didn't move or modify any brackets. But where the intake bracket bolts to the block the bolt hole wasn't drilled it had the boss or what ever its called but no hole. From memory one bolt hole for the alternator bracket, i think, was off by about 5mm. Had nothing to enlarge the hole so i never used it.
Just as a side note the block isn't a 4a-fe its a 4a-f.
The reason i got it was because i needed a motor asap and i had limited funds at the time. I was thinking of killing my credit card and getting IRA11Y's 4a-ge block that he was selling at the time. But then i found out that a wreckers near where the car was sitting had a 4a-f motor so i showed him me wallet and he removed all the externals and gave me the block and head for about 200 bucks. I later found out the 4a-f normally sells for around 700, while the 4a-g about 500-600. If i had the money at the time i'd would have soona have gotten another 4a-g and dropped in.
For the cranks. Like i said i just made an observational guess and i wouldn't have thought that the 4a-f crank would be lighter than the 4a-g crank.
Oil pumps - i didn't go that far into checking them. I just needed the car back on the road asap. But the 88kw (which i have) has less lobes/gears/cogs (or whatever their called) over that of the oil pump for the 100kw version.
Before i started rebuilding my block i was tossing around the idea of going for the 100kw motor mainly because of the oil squirter under the pistons (the 88kw goed without), the 20mm piston pins (18mm on the 88kw) and the 42mm conrod bearings (40mm, 88kw). The 88kw piston pins are a press fitted on the rods while the 100kw version uses a floating pin and they are held in by c-clips. On the 100kw motor, is it because of a thinner head gasket or because the pistons come up higher to achieve its 10.5:1 c.r.?
As far as i know the 4a-f shares the same conrod, piston pin sizes as the early 4a-g. Except for the head gasket.
As for the compression. The 4a-g has a 9.5:1 while the 4a-f has a 9.5:1 (but hey if i'm wrong, i'm wrong) , i'm using a "g" head gasket so i can't see there being much of difference.
But like i said the reason why i did the 4a-f with the "g" head was cost and time. Hell, i even had to re-use the cambelt. And reason i'm rebuilding the ol' blue top is to keep the numbers orginal and its an every day driver with a little performance on the side that runs on ULP.
All that i wanted to do was put in my 2cents as to the differences i wasn't planning on having it turned around and say "do it". I just thought that since i did it, it would have good to say what the differences were. Incidentally i did take some photos of it all but now i'm wishing that i took more.
For something different, wouldn't going a carby setup in the ae92 be illegal or something if you had a 4a-g or 20v in the car?
[Updated on: Tue, 10 August 2004 01:05]
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