Do you mean that once warm your clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedal is depressed?
Does your clutch take up close to the floor when it seems to be working fine?
If you answered yes to both of the above I would think that the rod that sits between your slave cylinder and clutch fork needs to be a tiny bit longer (the dellow one is adjustable in length).
WARNING: this may not be your solution and when increasing the rod length be sure to check that there is still the correct amount of "freeplay" in the clutch fork as specified in your owners manual (usually between 4mm and 7mm in most cases measured at the clutch fork, this usually equates to about 18mm to 25mm at the pedal).
Without the freeplay your thrust bearing will be in contact with the clutch diaphragm and may be applying pressure to the diaphragm thus decreasing the clamp load of the clutch.
Out of interest what sort of clutch are you running and what sort of clamp load does the pressure plate have??
The clutch is quite a simple part of the car, it's just that so many different parts interact with each other that a small change in one area (i.e. some poor positioning of a component during manufacture ) can have major consequences.
A friend who recently purchased a 13B turbo RX7 was having the above described problems, his was caused by dirty old fluid and air in the system, a proper bleed fixed his perfectly, but you sound like you have already covered this.
Thu, 06 January 2005 05:17
) can have major consequences.
