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hemi twofifteen turbo Regular Location: Melbourne Registered: October 2003	Re: turbo 18rc Sun, 06 February 2005 04:26 how much can you do yourself? I don't know how much you know etc, but i'll just write up a 'how to' on a budget. Oil line setups ---------------- Use a marker to mark a hole on the sump around the size of the I.D of a length of a piece of heater hose near the top of the sump. Drill it out, don't worry about the metal filings, just drain the oil. Any remaining pieces should be caught by the filter anyway. The heater hose should slide in with a nice tight fit and wont leak. Run this to the oil drain of the turbo. Remove your oil sender switch from the block and goto Enzed or Purtek and get a barb fitting of the same thread type to suit, If you like get a T piece so you can still run the original oil pressure switch, but not a necessity. (these fitting can sometimes be expensive) Also from purtek, but maybe from repco/bursons get a length of transmission cooler line to suit the barb fitting and hose clamps. If the turbo still has the original oil lines connected, chop off all but the 3" or so, and simply slide the oil line over and clamp up. Also if the turbo is water cooled grab a 2 T pieces and some heater line while your at it. Don't forget hose clamps! This will pretty much sort out all your turbo's cooling/oiling requirements and should be able to be done in about half a day. Next up is mounting the turbo/flanges etc. ------------------------------------------ You can either buy some steel plate, an angle grinder and some good drill bits and a dremel, or for around the same cost have it made up by a eng shop Make templates of the turbo inlet flange, and dump pipe flange. Drop them off the an engineering shop. Specify if you need studs as well, if you can get rear and front access such that you can use a normal bolt/nut combo do that as it will be cheaper. Also take off the carby and pull it all apart such that all you have is the base plate. Give this to the machine shop as well and tell them to create a flange from 1/2" steel plate as well.. (oviously to cut costs you can do a lot of this yourself, but it's a bit of a ballbreaker grinidng 1/2" plate) At this stage you should have a turbo inlet flange, and exhaust flange, and a flange that replicates the base plate of your carby. Instead of cutting/welding to cast iron, although it's possible, it would better suit turbo location etc if my memory serves me right on the 18rc engine to just use something like a J pipe. If you go that way, at this stage pretty much all your fabrication is complete. (unless your an exhaust shop) Tow the car down to an exhaust shop. Find a shop that has an interest in what your are doing, and will listen to you. this is actually pretty important. Some shops just want to do exhausts all day everyday and anything that deviates from what they know will scare them. There are plenty of shops that should help you out but from my exp the local independant guy is usually better than big chain shops. Keep the original engine pipe flange, and simply get the ex shop to add a J pipe off the back to the turbo inlet flange. (find somewhere in the bay where the turbo will sit nicely, oil lines vertical etc). Now (if there a good shop and you want to save some cash, tell them to give to 30 mins to bolt up the J pipe and turbo to the flange. Then get them to connect the original exhuast to your turbo exhaust outlet flange -- or get a new exhaust made up (... Finally get some pipes bent up to take the compressor outlet into your carby inlet plate. You'll need a piece of silicone hose and some clamps to make the final join from comp outlet to intake pipes. Press bent mild steel is fine for all this. So at this stage you should have oil water lines connected, your whole compressor side sorted out, with only the carby to take care of now. (note: do the oil lines after the turbo is mounted! -- i just typed it first for some reason) Carby choice is up to you, but choose something that will support around about the horsepower you can except. Say 90hp stock, you might get it upto 150hp or more?? i've got no idea. Webbers are a good option and there exist quite a lot of adaptors to 'convert' them into a single pipe suitable to enter the turbo compressor and a lot of people seem to use them? I will be a bit vague on this, due to not really knowing which way you will go, but just be careful with tuning. I find retarding the dist by about 4-5 degrees works well, but will sacrifice some off boost response. The only real way around that one is to run a boost retard canister on the dizzy, but i'm not shure where you could get one?. As for how much boost? no idea, but you should be able to get 8psi into it which will def make a difference! Hope this helps, it's pretty much what I did for my setup less the intake piping as mine is PVC (blow thru).... Also you could go completly the other way and go blow thru, and there is a fair bit of literature out there about how to set them up, and when done properly work extremly well. Good luck! [Report message to a moderator]

	Subject	Poster	Date
	turbo 18rc	classicjap	Sun, 06 February 2005 01:58
	Re: turbo 18rc	acreese	Sun, 06 February 2005 02:57
	Re: turbo 18rc	thechuckster	Sun, 06 February 2005 03:01
	Re: turbo 18rc	Norbie	Sun, 06 February 2005 03:00
	Re: turbo 18rc	brett_celicacoupe	Sun, 06 February 2005 03:08
	Re: turbo 18rc	Allan	Sun, 06 February 2005 03:24
	Re: turbo 18rc	thechuckster	Sun, 06 February 2005 03:37
	Re: turbo 18rc	Allan	Sun, 06 February 2005 03:44
	Re: turbo 18rc	thechuckster	Sun, 06 February 2005 03:59
	Re: turbo 18rc	supra1978	Sun, 06 February 2005 21:08
	Re: turbo 18rc	hemi twofifteen turbo	Sun, 06 February 2005 04:26
	Re: turbo 18rc	Allan	Sun, 06 February 2005 13:30
	Re: turbo 18rc	classicjap	Sun, 06 February 2005 10:52
	Re: turbo 18rc	thechuckster	Sun, 06 February 2005 11:38
	Re: turbo 18rc	hemi twofifteen turbo	Sun, 06 February 2005 13:15
	Re: turbo 18rc	thechuckster	Mon, 07 February 2005 14:52

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