Toymods Car Club Inc: Tech & Conversions => 2TG/4AG part 2

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Johnny
Forums Junkie

Location:
Sydney, OZ
Registered:
May 2002

Re: 2TG/4AG part 2

Tue, 04 June 2002 13:02

I really didn't want to get involved in this but,

Quote:

Also, how long have the 7AFE's been around? I'd say more people would have had time to stuff around with the 3T crank for the 2T than those using parts to make a 7AGE.

There is only one reason.... BLOODY EXPENSIVE
That why... I know for sure that to get good power from 7A or it's componets costs a Motsa.

Quote:

Beaten "professional" racers...Big Deal, so have I. Anyone who knows me, knows that I have no respect for someone JUST because they are a "professional" racer. Just 'cause you can afford it doesn't mean you're good at it.

I was street racing long before Rallying so I can agree with this, but look at the consequences now if your caught.... 3 years walking with 5 months to go, no more street drags for me!!

Quote:

We are looking to see what can be acheived from a set starting point. As you know I looked into the 7AGE option myself but was unable to find satisfactory Rods to suit the job short of getting some carillo's or similar made. The crank was also suggested to be not as rev happy as the 4AGE but that was speculation. Johny may be able to help out with that ?

Ah, Conrods, Mine are just shot peened and linished, but I wasn't planning a 8,000 Redline, 7,500 seem to be the limit, my redline is about 7-7,200 rpm. The 20V 7AGE I'm about to embark on will need custom rods to break that RPM limit, the Crank will have to be lightened (same, 7,500 rpm hard to break), but I'm have a re-think on this... I'll try a plain 7AGE, standard everthing in my Girls AE92 before I start just to get a base figure. Rod, Think we talked about this at the Autosalon.... Conclusion was cost effectivness of cash and ease of finding good go fast parts for the 2T vs that of a 7A.... with mine (7A) being custom this and custom that.....

Quote:

Apparently the 7A crank is not that bad, you just have to spend a bit of time nitriding, and dowelling the flywheel etc.This is what I have read from someone who I believe knows his stuff. It is heresay though.

Me!! My stupid co-driver decided to see what happens to a 7A@10,000 Rpm... sheared the flywheel clean off except for one bolt or two bolts, Now is dowelled for other stupid mishaps at his hands... The rest survived for another day luckly. 7A has less flywheel bolts than a 4A (6 vs Cool

. Yes mine is a Nitrided Standard Forged 7A crank as per homologation for Grp A.

MR20V, Your tit's comparison couldn't put this discussion in a better perspective... and give us a more light hearted view of this topic. Laughing

I've seen 2/3TG and not forgeting the other 2V twincam, the 18RG, putting out impressive power figures. An I will admit that my 7AFE which has spent more and more time on a dyno, has produce figures from 68hp(50Kw) all the way to 110hp(82Kw). Depend on Cams, fuel, injectors rates, three different heads, but I'm talking about a full on Grp A rally car built to run at NSW and OZ level racing on a workable budget... each bit has been built on. Being Realistic the 110Hp setup wasn't usable for what I had in mind... Then the same workshop show the full potential of a N/A 20V they race.... 188Hp(145Kw). I've never seen power like that from any toyota 1.6l I can think of... In the end beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

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