Toymods Car Club Inc: Tech & Conversions => Replacing 22-RE with 1JZ-GTE or 1G-GTE in RA6x

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Nark
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Cabramatta, NSW
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May 2002

Re: Replacing 22-RE with 1JZ-GTE or 1G-GTE in RA6x

Tue, 21 January 2003 01:19

dan_boucher wrote on Fri, 17 January 2003 18:34

1. If I am swapping an engine should I go for the most hp? The 1JZ-GTE would be my choice. If I'm doing a swap I mine as well make it worthwhile.

No, some engines are just too large and will ruin your handling. The JZ and M engines will fit (with a big shoehorn) but you won't want to go around corners with them in...
The 1G-GTE will give you the biggest bang for the buck. It's an easy conversion and the engines are cheap.
If you want more hp and are willing to spend the money, then go for the 1UZ-FE or 3S-GTE but they have a lot of problems associated with each swap.

The 1UZ-FE has a host of electronic gimickry that you will have to fool in order to put it into your car, especially if you want a manual. Common consensus is to go for an early 1UZ (89-93 I think) since this has the least electronic shit to deal with.

On a side note, my stock 1G-GTE puts out roughly the same power as a 1UZ-FE on the dyno. I haven't even bothered upping the boost....

The 3S-GTE swap is pretty well documented.
Check this thread out:
http://www.toymods.org.au/msgboard/index.php?t=msg &th=2590#msg_num_6

dan_boucher wrote on Fri, 17 January 2003 18:34

2. I'm confused about gearboxes and crossmembers. If I buy a 1/2 cut from a Soarer I think you get a frontsump pan(?). Is that what I would need. Which ones come with a mid or rear sump? All this talk about 3 different pans confuses me. Which one should I use?

You'll want a front sump. This can be found in 1G-GEs, 1G-GZEs, and gen 1 1G-GTEs.
Check our tech articles section for how to tell the different 1G-GTE generations.

dan_boucher wrote on Fri, 17 January 2003 18:34

3. As for the crossmember would I use my existing one? I have the 22-RE in it. I'm thinking I either use my existing crossmember and mounts or I use the crossmember and mounts from the 1JZ. Or is a combination of both?

Yeah, you use the standard crossmember and make custom mounts.

P.S.: Here is an email from GaryM on the Old Celica Club list who's researching the 1UZ-FE swap. This will give you an idea of what's involved in the 1UZ-FE swap....

GaryM wrote on 15/01/2003 1:33 PM

Okay, I got the ECU wiring diagrams for the 92 and 98 1UZFE engines in Lexus LS and SC cars. As far as Mitchell on Demand computer data shows, the V8 only came with an auto trans ni the US. SO... all 1UZ ECU's are programmed to operate a transmissions as well as the engine. The "problem" is that it reads the speed of the trans input shaft after the torque convertor and the trans output shaft to control the solonoid valves to shift the trans. The ECU will reduce engine power and set an error if it thinks the trans is slipping. I think I figured a way around this, but it certainly won't be easy. I will tell the ECU that the shifter is either in park (when the hand brake is on) or in manual low gear, (when the parking handbrake is off) This way the drive ratio will always be tha same, so I can use a frequency generator off of the engine crank with the correct pulse rates as if the car was rolling under light load in first gear. Trnas shafts will be at 0 rpm while in park, and the correct vehicle spend when out of park, even if the clutch is in and the car is stopped. The ECU will report that it is rolling, but it should not matter.

The ECU also has ABS inputs, but I will just tie those as if the wheels are never slipping. So far, no big deal. Here comes the FUN ones. Most of these cars also have traction control. I may need to connect the wheel speed sensors to my fake trans shaft speed detector. Once again, make sure it never sees any wheel slippage. That should work. WELL, at least on the 92 motor... On the 98 and up VVTi version, things get very crazy. The throttle is drive by wire, no throttle cable. It has dual TPS sensors on both the pedal and the throttle, and a motor to open the actual throttle. This also could be setup and use the electronic system, I could even have my old cruise control operate the pedal TPS sensor so it should work. But I need to satisfy alot more sensors to make sure it does not set an error code, AND the ECU uses a transponder key system for theft deterent. SO I would need the original Lexus Key mounted close to the reciever in the car so it thinks I have the correct key in the ignition or it will never start. This is getting crazy, and I am not even to the emissions controls yet.

So 93 or older it is. Now I need some specs on the pulses per revolution and the error windows in the ECU to make a box to create the right pulses. This may take some time. The 3SGTE is certainly going to be easier since it uses a much dumber ECU.

Gary M.

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