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oldcorollas
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Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003

Re: KE10 - KP61 front end conversion	Fri, 22 July 2005 07:29

for reducing bump-steer with suspension movement, looking from front of car, lower control arm and tie-rod are to be parallel, and lower control arm and tie rods should be same length. for zero ackermanm when steering, when looking from the top, the tie rod and the control arm should also be parallel. in reality, the steering back will be a bit further back toward the rear of the car, and so the tie rods will be a little longer.... but the pivot points will be in the same place.. sorta.. well.. just imagine the tie rods are rubbery, and you pull the steering rack backwards.. the only pivot points to have changed are the end of the steering rack and they only move backwards.. this way, you don't change bump steer, you get ackermann angles, but as for ackermann AND suspension movement.. that'll take more thinking.. for KE10. the steering arm/tie-rod pivots are inboard as they would hit the tyre otherwise. to compensate for this, the pivot at the other end of the tie rod is also inboard a bit. so thas on a dise to side basis... ackermann is a front to rear offset of the inner tie-rod pivot points... (get some bardboard and make some models and mvoe them around.. it helps a lot with your understanding..) the KE10 gemoetry is far from ideal tho... in fact it's shite.. the drag link moves up as well as sideways and it's all terrible but seems to vaguely work a bit.. to change R&P into KE10, i would.. -make tie rods the same length as the lower control arms (regardless if you keeep the A-arm or move to a KE20 type). - then, position the tie rods (when looking from front of car) to be parallel to the low arms (we are always talking abotu the straight line between pivot points.. regardless of the shap of things) - then, i eould position the rack a bit behind the line between the steering arm pivot points to give ackermann.. how much is a guessing game, but i would look at other cars to get an idea. sayy, KE70 to start. so now thats all lined up, i would measure the distance required between the inner tie rod ends, and then start looking for a rack... when fitting rack to car i would initially allow some adjustment forwards and backwards to change the ackermann angles (and would check by both driving and measurement.,. taking into account desired slip angles etc) but once the position is decided, make proper solid mounts that can't move.. another problem with KLE10 struts is that they do not pivot around the center of the strut axis, as later KE's tend to do... they have a more complex geometry with an offset pivot point (i think the pivot point is outboard of the strut axis) so that you have more complex changes in geometry than normal.. initially (after a very short think) i think this is done to reduce scrub radius and turning effort, and i think it may also reduce the camber change for a given steering input... altho that can always be exacerbated bu using more castor... still with me? i think a few bits of balsa and some real life models would help a lot... although measurement and replication is always a difficulty.. anyways, good luck if you find the length of the KP61 steerign rack, please let me know.. [Report message to a moderator]

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