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-=DV=-
Regular

Location:
Newcastle, NSW
Registered:
May 2004

Re: GT4 owners dedicated thread

Wed, 17 August 2005 16:09

1gt48u wrote on Wed, 17 August 2005 08:04

-=DV=- wrote on Tue, 16 August 2005 23:38

Classique71 wrote on Tue, 16 August 2005 19:16

Clutch is an engine out job unless your brilliantly mechanically gifted ..

not hard - just labour intensive - as ill find out in the next day - having the mechanic removing my box to assess the debris damage - expect it to take him a day at least to drop the motor

according to some dude on the gt4oc the clutch can be done without pulling the engine out, he did a write up and step by step on changing the clutch without dropping the engine completely out...

would like to know how - we tried all possible means to do it
and it missed by an inch
we spent 2.5 hrs trying to geat box out only - another 1.5hrs the whole motor was out
never met anyone yet who could do it
would be nice though Very Happy

cheers

it reads sort of like this

----------------------------------------
ST185 Clutch replacement with the engine still in place.

Equipment required: Engine brace, trolley jack, axle stands & a bloody good set of tools and the help of one other person.

1. Loosen front wheel nuts and hub nuts both sides.
2. Remove as much as you can from the top before jacking up the car. such as battery, intake system, carbon canister, starter motor, earthing straps, mounting support brackets, wiring brackets, clutch pipe + bracket, gear linkages + brackets, bell crank selector and the rad fan.
3. Jack the front of the vehicle up and place stands under the jacking points on the sills, I always get it to a height so that I can lie on the ground and my arms could reach around the box while still having my back on the ground for most strength, also the box will slide out past the bumper on the trolley jack. ( If you fail to get the right height it will cause you loads of hassle)
4. Remove front wheels, hub nuts, undo bottom ball joints, lower the wishbones using a bar against the floorpan, then pull the shafts out of the hubs, yank hard on each shaft and it will release from the box, remove inner driveshaft shrouds.
5. Remove the transversely mounted and longitudinally mounted subframes and engine mountings from the longitudinally mounted subframe.
6. Remove the flexi section of exhaust and the front part of the propshaft ( You may need to jack up one of the rear wheels in order to turn the shaft to get at all the nuts. But it is possible to undo them all in the one position)
7. Remove the engine mounting brackets from the bell housing and the transfer box.
8. Remove the gearbox cooler pipes and the coolant over flow tank.
9. Drain engine coolant by removing bottom hose and rad cap and at the same time drain the gearbox and the transfer box fluid.
10. While it’s draining remove the radiator.
11. Set up the engine brace so that the N/S engine hook is supported
12. Remove the N/S engine mounting, now the engine is only held in by the cambelt mounting.
13. Undo all bell housing bolts, the worst one is at the top between the transfer box and the engine this can be loosened by putting a spanner up between the sump and transfer box from underneath and you can break the seal by turning it a couple of mm, then you can undo the rest of it from the top by using a stubby spanner.
14. Remove the transfer box mounting from behind the block and the 2 bolts that mount the box by the O/S drive shaft.
15. Lower the engine brace as much as you can until the cambelt casing is nearly touching the inner wing.
16. Slide trolley jack in from the N/S of the car and support the box put a bit of wood in between so you don’t damage it.
17. Now break the seal between gearbox and engine using prybars in the appropriate places and physically ragging it a bit.
18. Now pull on the engine from the cat and push the lot as much forward as you can while you get another bod to slowly lower the jack as the box is coming down keep an eye on the N/S drive shaft seal it comes very close to the edge of the wish bone and watch out for the gearbox selector as well.
19. Well done the transmission should be on the floor now and the engine still in pull the transmission out from under the car change the release bearing and give it all a clean.
20. Remove and refit the new clutch, no need for an aligning tool just feel the friction plate and make sure it is flush with the pressure plate at the three points where you can get your fingers in and then tighten it up.

That is how to get your clutch out and leave the engine in,

it took me a day first time.

Look in a manual for all nut/bolt torques.

Refitting is basically the reverse of removing but if people are interested I will write how to refit as well.

I think I have mentioned everything I did to get it out, please forgive me if I forgot anything.

Cheers Kelt.

-----------------------------

cant say ive tried it..but it sounds like the authors have tho Very Happy

but as i remember from my swapping engines in my 162 it would have been damn near impossible...i imagine a 185 engine bay wouldnt be much more user friendly

[Updated on: Wed, 17 August 2005 16:13]

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