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mic*
Regular

Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
July 2005

Re: Car Audio Question...

Fri, 04 November 2005 01:06

Quote:

peak power = ghey wif teh aids
RMS is more useful, and also the efficiency of the speakers

correct demundo...

Quote:

remmeber, shit amp = shit sound. get a jaycar response amp, theyre on par with the standard stuff these days and 1/2 the price (pioneer claion kenwood etc)

The general rule in car audio is you get what you pay for. Jaycar however is one of the exceptions in the sense that they keep their overheads down by not doing wanky displays at every autoshop and show and all the other wanky retail shit. They mainly just sell through magazines and make a very good value for money product. There are still better amps around but bang for buck go for it.

Quote:

i have a Blaupunkt GTA450 which is a 640watt 4x50wrms or 4x80wrms at 2 ohm (yup, cheap amp which is 2 ohm stable). it was $250 about 6 months ago.

I am not famillar with this model. From this i am getting the idea that this amp has a impendence switch??? Not a common thing... What happens when you flick it to two ohms and you bridge two channels? BANG, WAFT, then the smell of burning IC's me reckons. But i guess you just dont do that ay...

Quote:

Oh i forgot to mention that my budget is about $400 for an amp...and I want to buy new front speakers and also run them off the amp.

120 Watts x 4 or 300 Watts x 2 or 120 Watts x 2 + 300 Watts x 1
Max. Output EIAJ
RCA and Speaker Level Input
Dimensions: 300 x 60 x 327mm

Is that alright to run 6x9s and some front 4inch speakers off?

What brand & model of amp is this? If you are looking at this with money left to buy ur 4" ers, i would be fairly certain that they are peak Wattage figures too.

Roughly speaking, RMS (root mean square) is one third of Peak Watts. Manufacturers targeting the uneducated rate their gear with peak ratings all over the box coz the numbers are big and they suck ppl in. Furthermore, the peak rating is usually the wattage that the best speaker in the factory caught fire at, so RMS can be as low as 1/5th of that figure. Whereas a better manufacuter knows that the real figure is RMS when designing and they know their shit is good so they arent scared to put a little number on their box, they will even be conservative with their RMS rating.

The amp you have mentioned will probably be lucky to produce 30wRMS per channel, and it could be really bad sound quality by the time you turn it up so tell me more about it.

I would say that if you buy good 4" speakers, run them off the head unit, then run bridged channels to your 6x9's to get more like 80wRMS each channel. You will get good volume out of your 6x9's then without pushing the amp high at all which is the main thing you want to avoid with a cheapie. Then the internal amp of the head unit should drive the 4" speakers at about the same level as the amp would have anyway. Maybe slightly less but better SQ.

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