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blake
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Thornleigh, Sydney
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May 2002
2TGEU bore Sat, 18 May 2002 06:28 Go to next message
does anybody know what is the max capacity that you can bore out a 2TGEU to, while maintaining as much strength as possible(hopefully enough to keep it's "strong as a brick shit house" reputation).
thanks. Rolling Eyes

[Updated on: Sat, 18 May 2002 06:32]

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Snyper
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May 2002
Re: 2TGEU bore Sat, 18 May 2002 07:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
the MOST you can go is 89mm but even then the wall to the waterjacket is very thin..... I probably wouldn't go anymore than 87.5mm I dunno, depends on what you want....
if you're looking at getting bigger capacity then why not try a hybrid engine, get the 3T block (1800cc) and then pyut your 2tg head on it, it's not as easy as it sounds but it is pretty straight forward, if ya have any questions about it then just ask me, I have done this with my celica, the hybrid engine is really good...and ya dun have to worry bout getting boring done or custom oversize pistons either.

Brendon
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blake
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May 2002
Re: 2TGEU bore Tue, 21 May 2002 02:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Smile thanks Brendon
cool i was not too sure about that one.What problems would i expect to encounter if i decided to bolt the 2TGEU head to a 3T block, this block would easily bore out to 2L wouldn't it? Also if bolting this combo of block and head together wouldn't the inlet and outlets in the 2TGEU head be too small to take the much larger capacity block?
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Snyper
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Re: 2TGEU bore Tue, 21 May 2002 05:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
umm 2t and 3t blocks are the same thing exactly the same.....the 3t is bigger in cubic capacity because it has a longer stroke and slightly bigger bore, I think..... so you can really only go the same amount of bore on a 3t as a 2t...which by memory is 89mm....which then leaves a thin wall between ya water jacket....

ok, it has been mentioned a few times on here before but the 2tg head are one of the best flowing toyota heads of that era, even better than the 3tgte heads......so you're not going to have a problem there, if you want a little more power then give it a port and polish job.... up to you...

as for 3t block and 2tg head..... ok, easy enough cos like I said earlier the 2t block and the 3t block are the same....
BUT - you will need a complete 2tg engine to donate parts for the 3t block, for the block you will need the cam blank-off, the timing chains, the timing chain cover, tensioners......
put all of that from your donor 2tg onto your stripped 3t block and you'll be halfway there..... then it's up to you as to how far you go with parts.. whether you just bolt it all up or go new pistons and everything like that.... but something that HAS to be done is flycut the top of the pistons... because of the 2tg head and the 3t stroke you need to get some valve reliefs machined into the piston tops....this will give clearance for the valves, otherwise your valves will go flying through ya rocker cover !!!! *lol*

I went all out on my build, new pistons, new crank, rebuilt head, balancing, porting, everything new..... doin it like that is costly, but it's worth it too.

any more questions then let me know.

Brendon

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blake
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Re: 2TGEU bore Tue, 21 May 2002 08:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Very Happy Mad, thanks again
I was going to do pretty much the same thing as you, sending my engine to a race engine builder to get the works, like you said it is damn expensive.Anyway the guy that is taking the engine up to Queensland for me suggested boreing it out to arond 1995cc and then getting custom pistons for it.So i reckon i,ll take the hybrid engine path aswell, seeing that it will save me alot of cash Smiley $$ and by the sounds of it a busted up motor.Did you have any other major problems when building your engine? Rolling
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Snyper
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Re: 2TGEU bore Tue, 21 May 2002 09:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
no real prpbs......
but just remember that the more you bore it out, the thinner the wall between the water jacket and the combustion chamber gets....therefore the hotter the engine will get and the more risk you have of it breaking.... just a thought to keep in mind...

Brendon
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Malicia
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Re: 2TGEU bore Tue, 21 May 2002 09:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
www.toysprots.com has a good tech info on these engines.

It has helped me deside in which way to go to give extra life to my 18rgeu.

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thetoyman75
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icon14.gif  Re: 2TGEU bore Tue, 21 May 2002 12:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Blake,

The bore on the 3T and the 2T is the same. In factory trim it is only the Stroke that is Different.

As for Maximum overbore that kind of depends on you wallet. You can actually acheive a 90mm bore if you don't mind forking out for Sleeves and the like. (ITS not worth the money !) You have a pretty good chance of slamming straight into a water jacket at that size too ! (It is 5mm oversize !!)

My personal limit would be 88.5mm. It is only leaving a thin margin and clearly you would not be able to rebore the block should the need arise. But hay T series blocks are not hard to come by !

In your case just for Kicks I would consider using the factory 2T block thats in there now. That way you don't need to get the engine numbers changed ! Graham Wilkins can easily grind out the clearance needed for a 3T crank !

Snyper has covered most things but something to consider is what you want as an end result. IT is a TOugh Streeter you can get away with Medium cams a small overbore a port and polish and Cast pistons wil hold up no worries.

If you want to go chasing big power (And no bottom end torque) then you will need Forged Pistons, Shot peened and Linished Rods and if you can find one fit a 3TGTE oil pump as they are a higher volume.

Whatever you do make sure your engine builder is familiar with the 2TG engine. These old girls are a full impact head so one little mistake can lunch the lot ! I personally use Wilkins Performance Engine's for all my 2TG related work. He raced these things back when they were new !

If you come to the next meeting or Event I'll give you a Blast in Tina's (The pinkish one on the Supercruise) failing that I can take you for a squirt towards the Putty road one lunch break.

Its at the mild end of things. But will give you a good idea of Potential.
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thetoyman75
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Re: 2TGEU bore Tue, 21 May 2002 12:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Oh just something to keep in mind ! The negative side of all this is the impact on your wallet. To rebuild and Mod Tina's 2TG owes me over $5000 ! (well over, infact is just under $6k)

however a set of mild cams in an otherwise Stock 2TG should set you back less than a grand (I'd be guessing around $700) By the time you get regrinds at say $150 the Pair 8 new Shims made up and the labour bill for setting it all up. Thats drive in drive out tho !

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andrewvibert
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Re: 2TGEU bore Wed, 22 May 2002 21:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A good low cost 2TG is based on 3T bottom end
3T pistons (flycut for 2TG valves)(overbore if you want .020/.040 no perf adv)
3T crank.
Have your head done by a prof head man.(standard valves are ok but change springs.
A set of reground cams (around 75/35)
Match port int and ex
2 x 45 DCOE carbs (solex,s& 40 mm webers are ok but will limit top end)
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blake
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Thornleigh, Sydney
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May 2002
Re: 2TGEU bore Thu, 23 May 2002 10:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Very Happy Cool thanks everyone
Rodney you just changed my mind, leaving the 2TG block and utilizing a 3T crank seems like a much better idea.How hard is it to find one in good nic though.One other thing, we need to organise a time to swap the taillights from tina's car and mine,so just emial me with a time that suits you and i'll get back to you.My email is bnbgraham@ozemail.com.au
Blake
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thetoyman75
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Re: 2TGEU bore Thu, 23 May 2002 12:54 Go to previous message
Blake,

Mate I work at Windsor so anytime between 9am and 5pm is fine just let me know the day before so I can bring the right tools to work. My mobile is 0416 181 284 and you can give me a buzz on that pretty much anytime before 10.30pm. I gave your Dad my Card so he has my work details too.

As for the 3T crank. A crank from a 3T-C (T18 Engine) will work just fine. If your thinking of chasing HUGE numbers then a 3TGTE crank is alledged to be better.

A 3T-C crank is going to cost you a lot less. In fact you should be able to buy a whole 3T-C for the cost of a 3TGTE crank these days ! (The 3T-C is a real boat anchor !!) and that way you get a spare sump etc.

If you do track down a 3TGTE Cran see if you can get your hands on the 3TGTE oil pump it is a higher volume than the 2T or 2TG.

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