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Registered:
August 2003
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ke55 5k conversion
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Sun, 12 October 2003 10:46
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hi,
I have a 79 ke55 4k 5 speed manual, whats involoved in changing the engine to a 5k, also is it worth changing. Cause at the moment i cant stand not being able to keep up with any cars at all haha
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Sun, 12 October 2003 11:48
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step one. take 4 k out
step two. put 5k in
i helped my neighbour put one in.
it took like 2 hours driving to driving.
Daniel
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Registered:
August 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Sun, 12 October 2003 12:07
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oh k so it goes straight in....is it worth changing the engine?
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Sun, 12 October 2003 12:11
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depends which one is in better nick 
im pretty sure the clutch etc is different from 4speed to 5 speed thats what i was told anyway. so you would need the parts from the 4k.
Daniel
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Location:
adelaide
Registered:
April 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Sun, 12 October 2003 22:11
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you want to swap over the bare block+head ie use the 4k flywheel, starter, alternator, manifolding etc
ab
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Registered:
August 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Mon, 13 October 2003 05:21
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so anybody who has done it, was it worth doing and how much faster would it be? is a 5k a 1500cc?
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Mon, 13 October 2003 05:33
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4K - 1300cc
5K - 1500cc.
faster?? no stock K engine wil be fast. remember that the 5K is set up for a lite-ace, not for a race car, so peak power and torque are low in rev range.
you can make a 4K pretty quick, and same goes for 5K, but otherwise they are just stock motors..
based purely on capacity, 5K will have 1500/1300% more torque
ie 15%
not that mnuch really.. but if you are going to do compression, carbs, cam, exhaust etc to a K motor, you may as well start with higher capacity, altho breathing is a K motors problem.
answer? not much faster, but maybe noticeably torquier down low.
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Registered:
August 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Mon, 13 October 2003 09:42
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well if i did weber,cam, exhaust to the 4k will it go noticably faster?and can i bore a 4k out much
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Mon, 13 October 2003 10:03
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34/34 weber, 24/27 chokes, 150/150 mains with 170 air correctors.
camtech 609 regrind, shave rocker towers 2.5mm, dual valve springs (like from www.performancesprings.com.au)
3K bigport head, or a stock 3K head (free 10:1 CR)
port the exhaust 1.5-2mm on walls and roof of port, make intakes about 30mm diameter (bigport has 30's stock, normal 3K has 27mm stock)
unshroud valves in combustion chamber, smooth sharp edges.
NGK BP6ES (or Y) plugs
ACL 40 or 60 thou OS pistons (don't use the Repcos, they crack)
balance rods (end for end and total) to 0.1 grams. balance pistons and pins to 0.1 grams, balance crank dynamically.
4-2-1 extractors, primary and secondary 1.25 feet long, 2.5 foot collector into 2" exhaust a couple of resonators and a big NON-straight thru muffler.....
this will be noticeably better than stock, and will put down around 47-48rwkw@8000rpm on Toymods dyno...
much more fun and if balanced properly etc, will rev all day to 7000rpm.....
use mobil 1 or similar synthetic oil and change regularly, and motor should last a while too....
can bore 4K out to 60 thou over (1.5mm) but much more is anyones guess. you can bore a 3K out 3 or maybe 4mm, but 4K has thinner bore walls.
if you are after real performance, go the 4AG etc, but if you are after some cheap expendable fun that will scare afew commondores, then the above mods should be ok..
Cya, Stewart
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Registered:
August 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Mon, 13 October 2003 10:39
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thanks heaps for that man, im just after something cheap that will make a bit of a difference. Do you know about how much that cost u all up?
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Mon, 13 October 2003 10:52
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totally depends how much you can do yourself.
pistons from NASON engine parts in moorebank were around $100 a set. they also supply the rest of the gaskets etc that you wil need... they are also a wholesaler, so know what you want before you go in there, and probably take cash...
weber? mine is from a 1974 fiat, but there are a lot of them of similar size on mid to late 70's eurotrash cars  prolly $40 for the carb, $10-20 for jets (i have some you can test with.. going cheap )
cam regrind $125, lifter regrind $70 (exxy from them, but.. they just need to be flat..)
porting head, cheap if you do yourself with a drill and a burr, also get some 3M discs for the CC shaping, make lfe a hell of a lot easier.. i have bulk of them, and they are about $2.50 each.. use with a Dremel.
i got plugs too $2 each.
getting block bored... dunno, i see prices ranging from $40-200 maybe someone in the club can do you a good deal? (if the bores and pistons are ok already (and are ACL, not repco) then new pistons are not needed.. just new rings...)
if you have a buddy that can weld, the whole exhaust system will cost youabout $250 from head to tail-lights, (2 resonators and 1 muffler) and a few days working out how to fit the bits together.. i got my mandrel bends, pipe and mufflers from "Australias best tyre and muffler centre" on canterbury road.
all new bearings seals and gaskets will prolly set you back about $250 or so... use an ACL Monotorque headgasket (BD950MT) all the rest are pretty crap in comparison (in my experience).
i did the cam towers at work but shouldn't be mroe than $30 or so for machining time (is dead easy for them to set up and do)
dual valve springs were $125, but you could probably find cheaper, and stock springs are good for between 6000 and 7000 depending who you ask... i'd go duals if you want to run revs all the time.
if someone does all this for you?? it'll be a pretty penny, but doing it yourself is a great learning experience, and it's only a K motor after all, so it's not big $$ to find parts if you stuff something
Cya, Stewart
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Registered:
August 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Mon, 13 October 2003 11:04
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man how hard is it to port the head and all the shit like that, i got a 32/36 weber is that a good size to put on? In what order would u do these things to the engine or would u just do them all at once?
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Location:
NSW Engadine
Registered:
June 2003
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Registered:
August 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Fri, 17 October 2003 10:30
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can anyone help with what order i should do any of those mods? and if a 32/36 weber is to big for a 4k
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: ke55 5k conversion
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Sat, 18 October 2003 10:21
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it depends on the choke size of the weber.
the 32/36 weber with 26/27 chokes will be a bit of a pig to drive, since a 26mm choke is the right size for a 2L, not a 1.3..
if you can get a 23/24mm primary choke, it will be much nicer.. that said, you can still use the 26/27....
you will have to change fuel jets anyway....
as for order???
jaycar HEI kit first. always.
ditch the stock aircleaner. you will need to get a filter for the new carb later on, so grab something shitty like a rmaflo from a wreckers.
ummm, 3K head next. it bolts straight over, no mucking about. you can port it yourself if you want, but it helps to do a fair bit of research first. check out some of the pics on my page at
www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford
a stock 3K head will be better than a stock 4K head, since you have 10:1 CR.
next, get extractors. the stock manifold is terrible, but the twin pipe version is better than nothing.
next do the rest of the exhaust.
next do the cam. if you go for higher than stock lift, you should machine down the rocker towers for longevity, and also get dual springs, but if you just increase duration, then stock springs and towers may be ok..
do the carb last. the stock one will run rich with bigger cam anyways (but if it feels funny, don't run it for long). change jets etc and try to tune it decently as it makes all the difference!!!!
if you are going to do internals, go the 40 or 60 thou OS ACL pistons, and get pistons and their pins, and rods balanced. the crank is pretty good from factory, so not absolutely necessary to do that.
new bolts are always good, especially rod bolts and head bolts. ARP head studs are available, but new stock bolts are also ok. bet new flywheel bolts while you are at toyota.
hows that for a start????
you could start preparing a spare block to put in later, and find a 3K bigport etc....
Cya, Stewart
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