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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 03:30
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Hey peoples!!
first of all i wanna say hi to all, long time reader of forums, first time registration and posting.
secondly i wanna say thanks to all the amazing info and stuff posted around!!!
what i want to know from all you people that ghave built/rebuilt the 3T-GTE motor is where did you get all the gaskets, bearings, etc from? Im bout to get my motor and im gonna do all the normal working of the motor and all but i wanna know wher i can get all the gaskets and bearings and stuff from? im in sydney but am willing to shop around australia even OS if required...
also what recomendatyions do any of you have for me? if you cannot post then please feel free to email me direct any info would be so much appreciated????
thanks in advance
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 04:12
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Mate, welcome to the forums!
I collected most my rebuild parts from Stewart Wilkins Rally -
http://www.swmotorsport.com/home.htm
He can get bearings, gaskets etc.
Cheers,
Joel
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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 Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 07:01
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thanks for that will check them out...
got any tips or tricks when building it?
basically i got a TA22 '73 and this is what im hoping to do...
1. for the block (depending how cylinders are), im just gonna hone the cylinders and give it an acid wash
2. low comp forged pistons (i was told ACL do the bathurst cars in pistons so i was gonna go for that but am open to any other ides/manufacturers?), hardened crank and rods
3. for the head, was looking at bigger valves depending if the power gain is worth it, other wise it will just be a port and polish, also acid wash
4. new valves, valve springs, guides, etc
5. 460cc injectors (was told anything bigger than that might flood it
6. 5/16" fuel lines and fuel pump to suit (not sure what cfm to get, any ideas?)
7. t3/t4 hybrid hy-flow turbo and BOV
8. rewire the whole system with thicker wiring (although this will not give any more power what so ever it should higher and better current flow through the whole electrical system allowing more consistent & powerful spark and better ECU readings), but this will only probably be 1-2guage thicker... THIS IS ON THE DRAWING BOARD STILL WEIGHING THE PROS AND CONS IN DOING THIS
9. ECU............................... either keep original ECU and piggy back it or change it completely, not sure... got any ideas for this either?
10. customer made 3" down pipe and 2.5" straight through with one muffler
Further to that putting the W55, customer made tail shaft and probably a hilux diff and a front mount Inter-Cooler. Should hopefully be a machine with that in it 
After that i gotta think bout brakes and suspension... AM open to other suggestions
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 07:27
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Howdy, just added some comments on the things I can comment on.
1. If you are getting forged pistons custom made I would get them oversized and the block bored to suit. Means if you ever damage the block and can only find an average secondhand one you can bore it and clean it up to suit your pistons. Also slight increase in cc is good 
2. Special piston services in Melbourne is where I got mine, Also talk to YelloRolla on the forums about this as I think he can get them for a good price.
5. Depends, if you are going aftermarket ECU get the 550cc 13B injectors.
6. Get a Bosch 910? I think it is pump. They are from a merc v8 from memory. Only $200 odd and flow enough for 500hp.
9. I recommend changing the ECU. The factory 3T efi system is very basic. It doesn't control timing etc. No point piggy backing something really as the factory ECU does not control a whole lot apart from fueling.
10. Why go to 2.5 if you putting 3 inch dump? 3 inch the whole way my friend
Cheers
Joel
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Location:
On your mum!
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 07:55
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Stewart Wilkins Rally is a good place for the gaskets.
Buy bearings to suit 3T-C they are identical - try Pittwater Brake and Clutch for these (ask for phill or matt).
Be careful with the hole placement on the conrod bearings - they are generally in the wrong spot and they will need re-drilling to match the rods.
Do not replace the cam tunnel bearings unless it is necessary - they need to be scraped to suit the shaft.
email me if you would like a price on forged pistons (wiseco).
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 08:48
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thanks guys for that!!!!!!!! and yellorolla you will be hearing from me soon (hope you dont mind but from what i can read you seem to be 'The One' when it comes to this motor)...
just furher to that iv been looking all over the world, iv covered every mm of it and cannot find a manual for the motor... please Please PLEASE help me!!!!!! if you got a book ill but it, if you dont want to part with it ill pay you for photocopying it ( i do not not endorse plagerism or copyright but i am blind )... but if all else fails all i really want are all the tightening torques or the torques for what i want to do... at the moment all the motors iv built have been tightened by feel and although that does me well i dont want to build my baby on guess work...
iv currently got a 3T in it and i built that all by feel and she does me awsome, iv thrashed it so much that the cylinder walls are probably looking like eggs by now (i know as she is blowing smoke after 3500-4000revs and struggles to get paast 5500revs now but thats 2 years of trashing with a year of having a backyard stock diff locked (aaahhhh they were the days, damn rego!!!!!! lucky i had another diff but the locker is still in the garage )) she used to hit 6500-700 without fail before screaming of pain but not anymore 
TurboRA28 your comments are good, i got a guy that will bore, hone, and acid wash the block for bout $100-150 and head work for bot the same if i want bigger valves done... guys with ECU what are yor preferences? microtech, haltech... i hear microtech are easy and simple while haltechs are c**ts to tune but hals are better... im more of a electrical wiring and mechanic person than ECU know how person... finally i wanna go for 2.5" mandrel bend cause im not sure if the 3" would fit and i dont want to be hearing exhaust scrapes all day...
finally i want to be as much of a tight ass as possible but am willing to spend the big bucks for parts, ie, im the freak that will drive his car illegally to the exhaust place to save on towing (once again i do not endorse illegal activity, you do that at your own risk as i do)
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Location:
On your mum!
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 11:58
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fade-e
tightening torques are the same for the 3T GTE as they are for the 2T G. I have checked the 3T GTE build manual (all in Japanese) and the torque figures are identical.
I recommend looking at the head gasket sealing and doing all that you can to improve it (mine is only improved according to budget). The factory specs are too low for head bolt torque.
Keep your eyes open for rebuild books for the 3T - they come up from time to time in the trading post - both here and the newspaper. Like I have said they are in Japanese and the 2T G book gives what you need to know.
'The One'  my car is just doing well because it is pretty reliable and the guy who tunes it does a great job. My engine runs Wolf3D ver 3.1.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 13:14
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i am considering getting the software to tune it myself on the fly... already got a laptop to use, just need the connections and software... also further to what i mentioned i want NOS  ... any suggestions in that field... thats why i am after hardened/forged crank and everything else situated in the block... considering 2 shot system
YEAH YEAH sounding too much like fast and furious but you would be amazed at what info you can find on asian sites, the headache is in getting them translated correctly so i havent spent too much time going there but from what iv seen and read from translations double NOS is very possible but is it worth it, single is a definate though... unfortuneately that wont be going in untill at least 6months after motor finished, runing and tuned properly
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Location:
On your mum!
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 22:58
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If using nitrous you will need to everything that you can as far as head gasket sealing goes.
The factory crank is a tough item - I would consider getting it Cryotuffed or Nitrided.
Rods should survive a pretty harsh environment - they are forged from the factory. You could get them linished and shot-peened.
I would recommend steel flywheel and perhaps a Romac harmonic balancer.
Tuning it on the fly with nirous etc is inviting a disaster.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Fri, 11 June 2004 23:26
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thanks for that... not changing crank and rods should save me a bit of cash  ... when you say 'head gasket sealing' how do you mean? you got your block, head gasket, head and head bolts all connected and tightened to a good torque setting, so what else would be required in sealing it up?
do you mean that it would leak from gasket? blow out the gasket? head warping?
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Location:
On your mum!
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Sat, 12 June 2004 03:00
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There is more than a good chance that the combustion pressure will blow past the gasket and into the coolant (if you are lucky).
If I were building the engine with nitrous in mind, I would use copper head gasket and have the block o ringed and very likely get a set of head studs made for it.
You MAY get it to stay alive with o ringing, decent sealant and higher torque values.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Sat, 12 June 2004 04:18
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would that be due to the paper based gasket?
if i am to go for a copper based gasket would the one gasket be good enough i should i go for a layered system? for example some of the new nissan patrol diesels use metal gaskets for the head and are multi layered, ie, 3 gaskets on top of each other. they do that due to piston TDC going beyond the top of the block and therefore they layer the gaskets on top of each other to get the header sitting higher
do you think that could be a feasable idea here? i know firstly that raising the final sitting position of the head would reduce compression (but im not worried bout that) my concern is would it still leak out?
anyone got an opinion on this???
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Sat, 12 June 2004 09:29
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if we were to ignore the NOS part, would i need an engineers certificate to get it registered?
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Club President
I supported Toymods
Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
Christchurch, New Zealand
Registered:
March 2004
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Thu, 17 June 2004 00:23
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Mains are identical, big ends are not, try shopping around to find the right bigend bearings which are different to all other tseries (because of oiling hole). I managed to find 10 thou over 3tgteu bigend bearings from a local supplier for $35NZ retail. was a stock item.
<quote>
Buy bearings to suit 3T-C they are identical - try Pittwater Brake and Clutch for these (ask for phill or matt).
Be careful with the hole placement on the conrod bearings - they are generally in the wrong spot and they will need re-drilling to match the rods.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: 3T-GTE rebuild
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Thu, 17 June 2004 07:03
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what about swmotorsport mentioned above? i took a look at his site and he does a gasket set, does he do bearings as well?
i want to call him but been sooooooooooo busy i keep forgeting, then i get on the forums and remember i wanted to call and its too late so if anyone knows whould appreciate it
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