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dimmy77_03
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icon5.gif  Capacitors Tue, 15 June 2004 13:33 Go to next message
I need to buy a decent capacitor to wire up a 2nd amp...would anyone know if this is any good?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&a mp;category=4950&item=5704077440&rd=1 OR http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&a mp;category=32636&item=2481658945&rd=1

If these arent any good, could you recommend a decent one for about $500, tops of about $700

Thanx.
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lang
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Re: Capacitors Tue, 15 June 2004 13:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i have a fusion one, and my system runs sweet, not sure if its that or the massive drycell battery i have that contributes the most
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Tue, 15 June 2004 23:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Are you sure you need a Cap?
Hook it up and see if you do.

You have to be pulling serious current to need one.

Then again, 2 decent 15's and you'll need one.
Fucknose why anyone would want 2 15's tho...
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Sigmeister
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Re: Capacitors Tue, 15 June 2004 23:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I would hook the amp up and see what happens. Generally a cap is used to stop things like headlights dimming. However, if you have that muh to spend (And I wouldn't spend that much on a cap), I suggest upgrading you battery. Look at brands like Optima and Odessey. It is much better to upgrade the battery then to add a cap. Generally they are considered a bandaid fix to a poor electrical system.
However if you want one, I would look at brands like Stinger\Fusion\Aerpro, seen as you have the money. The one in the pic looks a bit cheap and nasty. Saying that, they all probably come from the same factory anyway Very Happy
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Tue, 15 June 2004 23:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Sigmeister wrote on Wed, 16 June 2004 07:31

Look at brands like Optima and Odessey. It is much better to upgrade the battery then to add a cap.

I looked into these batteries a few months back.
And I wouldnt touch them.

Yes they have uber cranking power, but they have no stamina.
A decent stereo would drain them flat in under half an hour without the car running.

I'd stick to a normal style battery, get something 450+CCA
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Johnny
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 01:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Quote:

Fucknose why anyone would want 2 15's tho...

true that's why I had 4 15" + 4 10" + 4 6.5"+ 4 4" splits and on the roof, 4 5.25" full ranges (comp system)
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SIMDOG
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 01:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
CrUZsida wrote on Wed, 16 June 2004 09:45

Sigmeister wrote on Wed, 16 June 2004 07:31

Look at brands like Optima and Odessey. It is much better to upgrade the battery then to add a cap.

I looked into these batteries a few months back.
And I wouldnt touch them.

Yes they have uber cranking power, but they have no stamina.
A decent stereo would drain them flat in under half an hour without the car running.

I'd stick to a normal style battery, get something 450+CCA



They have an uber CCA rating however they are also deep cycle batteries that can be run flat and left flat with minimal damage. The Optima one that I have has a 50Ah rating which is far superior to any normal battery.

Having said all that... Unless you are using them to run an inverter with the risk of flattening them totally(I run my ventilator at night when I go camping from my Optima), the extra cost is probably not worth it. They are better though.

[Updated on: Wed, 16 June 2004 01:45]

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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 01:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
SIMDOG wrote on Wed, 16 June 2004 09:44

They have an uber CCA rating however they are also deep cycle batteries that can be run flat and left flat with minimal damage. The Optima one that I have has a 50Ah rating which is far superior to any normal battery.

Umm, I'm pretty sure my normal battery has an A/h rating of 85 A/h and even tiny normal batteries have an A/h rating of about 40.

I looked into most brands, and for A/h rating, a decent sized normal battery shat over the Deep Cycle ones.
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SIMDOG
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 01:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shat all over the deep cycle ones??? In what way???

In terms of continuous consistant power supply the deep cycle batteries are far superior.
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 02:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
In terms of the ability to run high powered applications for sustained periods of time (without charging, ie alternator), a large standard lead-acid battery is better.

For being able to drain a battery hundreds of times, or needing huuuuuuuge amounts of starting capacity, a deepcycle/optima/odyssey is better.
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SIMDOG
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 02:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Quote:

Deep-cycle Batteries
What kind of batteries are used in PV systems? Although several different kinds are commonly used, the one characteristic that they should all have in common is that they are deep-cycle batteries. Unlike your car battery, which is a shallow-cycle battery, deep-cycle batteries can discharge more of their stored energy while still maintaining long life. Car batteries discharge a large current for a very short time -- to start your car -- and are then immediately recharged as you drive. PV batteries generally have to discharge a smaller current for a longer period (such as all night), while being charged during the day.
The most commonly used deep-cycle batteries are lead-acid batteries (both sealed and vented) and nickel-cadmium batteries. Nickel-cadmium batteries are more expensive, but last longer and can be discharged more completely without harm. Even deep-cycle lead-acid batteries can't be discharged 100 percent without seriously shortening battery life, and generally, PV systems are designed to discharge lead-acid batteries no more than 40 percent or 50 percent.

Also, the use of batteries requires the installation of another component called a charge controller. Batteries last a lot longer if care is taken so that they aren't overcharged or drained too much. That's what a charge controller does. Once the batteries are fully charged, the charge controller doesn't let current from the PV modules continue to flow into them. Similarly, once the batteries have been drained to a certain predetermined level, controlled by measuring battery voltage, many charge controllers will not allow more current to be drained from the batteries until they have been recharged. The use of a charge controller is essential for long battery life.

Next Page >>



http://science.howstuffworks.com/solar-cell10.htm
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 02:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Yeah, but Optima and Odyssey aren't typical Deep-Cycle batteries.

They have extremely large starting current capabilities, deep cycle capabilities, but low sustainability.

You can't have all three postivies (yet).
Something has to suffer.

Typical Deep Cycle - Poor starting
Normal Lead-Acid - Poor flatten/recharging
Optima/Odyssey - Poor sustainability
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SIMDOG
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 02:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Yeah... You're right... The Optima/Odyssey are hybrids.

The Odyssey for the record is way crap in comparison to the Optima.
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 02:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Either way, for a typical car, or a car with a stereo, I'd just get a standard car battery with the biggest A/h rating that will physically fit in the battery holder.

And as a rule of thumb, the larger the CCA, the larger the A/h rating.
I have 550CCA and (from memory) 85A/h.
I used to have 440CCA and 60ish A/h and I could leave the stereo on for a good 2 hours and still start the car.
Haven't had a chance to test the new battery though...

And I'd be drawing constant 40A, with a peak around 80A
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SIMDOG
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 02:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I was starting to agree with you until you said that... Amp hours is the rating that applies to deep cycle batteries. Shallow cycle batteries are rated in CCA only. Also, it is not A/h it is Ah.
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 02:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ha, it is Ah too, my mistake

But its just a rating as to how long a battery will last until it has less than 10% (i think) charge.

So a 40Ah battery will last 40 hours while draining 1 amp. (as a rough guide only)

So the higher the Ah rating, the longer the battery will last.

Hence Hybrid batteries have smaller Ah ratings for a given CCA and physical size, becuase its not something they are designed to do

[Updated on: Wed, 16 June 2004 02:54]

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SIMDOG
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 03:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Amp hours are a unit of measure for a battery's storage capacity.

The Ah rating is obtained by multiplying the current in amperes by the time in hours of discharge.

For example: A battery delivering 5 amperes for 20 hours, delivers 5 amperes X 20 hours = 100 Amp Hr of capacity.

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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 03:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Thats what I just said
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lang
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 04:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
CrUZsida wrote on Wed, 16 June 2004 09:45

Sigmeister wrote on Wed, 16 June 2004 07:31

Look at brands like Optima and Odessey. It is much better to upgrade the battery then to add a cap.

I looked into these batteries a few months back.
And I wouldnt touch them.

Yes they have uber cranking power, but they have no stamina.
A decent stereo would drain them flat in under half an hour without the car running.

I'd stick to a normal style battery, get something 450+CCA



WRONG

i ran my system at close to full volume for around 2.5 hours and had no problems with running out of charge.

i think its this battery (optima d-34) http://www.optimabatteries.com/products/pdf/D34.pd f

it was running 3 alpine V12 amps

EDIT: you may be right about them having less stamina than a normal battery (i have no idea about this), im just pointing out that your comment didnt apply in an actual application using one of these batteries under a high stereo load, they last ALOT longer than what you thought.

EDIT EDIT: why do i feel like im going to get flamed for this post lol Very Happy, i read your other posts and still couldnt work out what conclusion you came to. hence this post

[Updated on: Wed, 16 June 2004 04:34]

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SIMDOG
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 05:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
You're gonna get flamed for your dud link. Twisted Evil

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lang
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 05:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
works for me buddy
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dimmy77_03
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 08:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Thanx heaps guys Very Happy
Im running a sony deck with pioneer 6x9's and 7x10's(run with a boss amp), 2 12" clarion subs (run with a rockford fosgate). Thinking of buying some 6" splits
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 22:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
You definately wont need a capacitor then
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gianttomato
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 22:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I fitted a flux capacitor to my car. Now I can time travel.
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 22:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
gianttomato wrote on Thu, 17 June 2004 06:30

I fitted a flux capacitor to my car. Now I can time travel.

UISAMASSIFDONG
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Allan
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Re: Capacitors Wed, 16 June 2004 23:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
gianttomato wrote on Thu, 17 June 2004 08:30

I fitted a flux capacitor to my car. Now I can time travel.


Have you picked up a "Mr fusion" yet or still stringing a cable across the street on stormy days?
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THE WITZL
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 08:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
how to tell if you need a stiffening capacitor on your car audio system (read, if you want to waste money):

# using a datalogging voltmeter, sampling at above 50Hz, measure the voltage supply to your amplifier(s) at the amplifier end.
# begin sampling voltage
# turn on stereo to usual listening volume and play for a minute whilst car is running
# Turn off stereo, and stop sampling
# download samples into PC and graph
# if you see voltage drop more than 1V very frequently, start to give a shit, or upgrade your cables.
# Install capacitor and measure again. Smack yourself silly if there is no difference.
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CrUZsida
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 08:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
THE WITZL wrote on Thu, 17 June 2004 16:12

how to tell if you need a stiffening capacitor on your car audio system (read, if you want to waste money):

# using a datalogging voltmeter, sampling at above 50Hz, measure the voltage supply to your amplifier(s) at the amplifier end.
# begin sampling voltage
# turn on stereo to usual listening volume and play for a minute whilst car is running
# Turn off stereo, and stop sampling
# download samples into PC and graph
# if you see voltage drop more than 1V very frequently, start to give a shit, or upgrade your cables.
# Install capacitor and measure again. Smack yourself silly if there is no difference.

I tend to go by the method, if you hear clipping, and your wiring is tiptop, get a cap
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lang
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 08:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
THE WITZL wrote on Thu, 17 June 2004 18:12

how to tell if you need a stiffening capacitor on your car audio system (read, if you want to waste money):

# using a datalogging voltmeter, sampling at above 50Hz, measure the voltage supply to your amplifier(s) at the amplifier end.
# begin sampling voltage
# turn on stereo to usual listening volume and play for a minute whilst car is running
# Turn off stereo, and stop sampling
# download samples into PC and graph
# if you see voltage drop more than 1V very frequently, start to give a shit, or upgrade your cables.
# Install capacitor and measure again. Smack yourself silly if there is no difference.


who cares it looks cool Very Happy
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THE WITZL
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 08:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
[quote title=CrUZsida wrote on Thu, 17 June 2004 18:17
I tend to go by the method, if you hear clipping, and your wiring is tiptop, get a cap[/quote]


If you hear clipping - fucking turn down the gain on your amplifiers!!! Then buy a bigger amp.

P.S. if you can "hear" clipping, you have already done damage.


the only reason to have a stiffening cap is to ensure that for a much time as possible the voltage supply to your amplifiers is as high as possible.

power = volts x current (P=V.I)

thus if voltage drops, power drops. This is the purpose of a stiffening cap Smile
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Cyber-punk
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 10:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
teehee
he said stiffening
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Cool1
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 10:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Damm theres some dribble in this thread Laughing Rolling Eyes
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THE WITZL
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 11:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
if you are referring to me shane... then Razz

otherwise, i tend to agree.
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Cool1
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 11:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I wouldnt be using a DMM i'd be using a digital storage CRO, probably a 100MHz should do it. If you get anymore than 200mV drop, remove all wiring from the car and start again.
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THE WITZL
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 11:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
not everyone has acces to funky equipment like you.. or even semi funky like i do....

nevertheless... depends on how anal u are about car audio.
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Toobs
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 11:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
forget the datalogging... whack a decent current shunt between the battery +ve and your amp and see how many amps your drawing... set your multimeter to max hold and see what you get!

anything even close to the alternators rated current will give problems... if it peaks that high get a cap

if its always close to the alternator current rating it may be time to get a bigger alternator Very Happy
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THE WITZL
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Re: Capacitors Thu, 17 June 2004 12:12 Go to previous message
then install ssome dilithium crystals in parallel with the amp and your set.
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