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Location: Borneo - Land of the Head...
Registered: April 2003
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3T-GTE Injector Control
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Mon, 12 July 2004 18:09
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Greetings all,
Im trying to wire up my 3T-GTE but Ive run into some problems. Seems like the injectors wont open and start working. I manually triggered the Injectors and got the engine started for a few seconds, this is obviously not correct. Im wondering what have I wired wrongly. These are my questions.
1. The IG pin on the ECU is wired to the igniter where the RPM signal is output or does it mean ignition where 12V power is input when the key switch is switched on?
2. If I assume that IG refers to ignition and 12V is input here, what does the ECU use as an input signal to calculate the opening duration of the injectors?
3. Currently I know that the yellow wires are supposed to be the power for the injectors, I have supplied power to them directly, 12V through a relay without any resistors (I followed a wiring diagram I found), is this correct?
4. If what I did in Q3 is correct, what supplies the (-) signal for the injectors? On the ECU pins #10 and # 20 is supposed to be the switching side for the injectors. What is actually output from these wires, or is it input signals? Currently mine shows 12V + output, shouldnt it produce (-) signals for the injector?
Do you guys think Im missing any components?, according to the wiring diagram I dont need any resistors or any igniters (to boost - signal). Anybody got any info PLEASE help. Ive been at it for 3 days already, this problem is even creeping up in my sleep!! Thanks!!
Resner
http://www.geocities.com/levinboyz
[Updated on: Mon, 12 July 2004 18:16]
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Location: Terrigal
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Mon, 12 July 2004 23:48
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Howdy, hmm lots of 3t-gte wiring questions here which is testing my memory a lot (argh it hurts )
Here is a few answers...
1. IG should go to the -ve side of the coil (as you said, where the tacho goes). Don't confuse this with IGN, it is just a wire between the negative side of the coil and the IG pin on your ECU.
2. Don't assume
3. Thats correct, the yellow wires should supply the injectors with +12v via a relay.
4. The ECU uses an earth to trigger the injectors #10, #20. The injectors are supplied with + via the yellow wires, and the ECU supplys - via the usually white #10, #20 wires. You cannot measure this with a multimeter really as it switches too fast. You need an injector test LED thing.
The 3t-gte doesn't use a resitor for the injectors.
Double check the earths to the ECU (E1 I think? E2 maybe?). Because it uses these earths to trigger #10, #20 for the injectors.
Cheers
Joel
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Location: Borneo - Land of the Head...
Registered: April 2003
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Tue, 13 July 2004 04:10
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Thanks Joel for your info. Ill try to connect the IG pin to the (-) side of the coil however Ive tried this but it didnt seems to work. Ill try again anyway. Does the ECU need this signal as part of its input to control the injectors? I have a feeling that my ECU has gone KAPUTSKY... The engine came japan a few weeks ago, it looked pretty ugly, we took a gamble and put it in.. hope we dont loose out... or I might have to settle for a CA18 single cam twin spark....is this engine any good?
Cheers
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Location: Terrigal
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Tue, 13 July 2004 04:23
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Yeah IG is a signal for the ECU. The injectors wont fire without it.
Can't comment on the CA18 sorry!
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Location: Borneo - Land of the Head...
Registered: April 2003
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Tue, 13 July 2004 08:24
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hey all
ive connected the IG pin to the (-) terminal of the coil for the RPM, the engine still will not start. The injectors are not clicking. However when I disconnect IG the engine starts up right away, strong at the beginning and then starts to idle very roughly as if only 2 pistons are working. As soon as the IG terminal is reconnected, the engine shuts off....any ideas?... Ive tried this a few times and this characteristic seems to be very consistant.
Is there anything wrong with the coil. Some guy(so called wireman) said that maybe the signal from the coil is too strong, it needs a resistor to to reduce the signal. Another guy over here said that the signal coming is too weak.... any ideas Joel or anybody out there?.... thanks
Cheers
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Location: Brisbane
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Wed, 14 July 2004 00:23
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Are you connecting the IG wire to the -ve terminal of the coil? And no, you don't need a resistor.
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Location: Newcastle
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Wed, 14 July 2004 05:23
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Just adding from my experience, I had a similar problem that mine would start for a few seconds then die like it wasn't getting fuel and it turned out to be blocked injectors. The only fuel it was getting was a little bit fromthe cold start injector and when it stopped in would obviously stall. This may not be your problem but it just sounds similar. Good luck.
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Registered: November 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Wed, 14 July 2004 11:58
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Dude,
Make sure connectors PC and PE are earthed if you dont have the pressure switches and make sure the switches are normally closed if you have them or the engine will do what you're saying.
I have the full wiring diagram on my siet for the factory 3T GTE.
Cheers,
Simon
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/celica.htm
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Location: Borneo - Land of the Head...
Registered: April 2003
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Thu, 15 July 2004 01:35
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Hey all,
You should have told me that earlier Simon. At least I could have tried it before I put in another ECU (older 3T-GTE version), I think it doesnt have any PC or PE pins right?... Ya the ECU diagram on your site was the one i resourced from the net . Now theres this problem I found out, when I start the engine(without IG wire connected), it starts but idles very badly, actually the 4 injectors are not working, the engine starts because is has fuel coming in from the cold start injector. Now when I connect the IG wire, the engine shuts off immediately. I found out that it was because all the 4 injectors opened at the same time... none of it clicking, they just stayed open (i dont think they are blocked...) , letting too much fuel in...this problem is too wierd..
Im thinking to put back the original ECU... anybody with any ideas for me to try? could it be a problem with my igniter and plug coils, whats the most basic igniter and plug coils that can be used in this case? Im sure there nothing wrong with them because the engine is firing properly, however there was some guy over here who said that the signal coming from the IG was too strong shorting the ECU, might sound stupid... but im open to ideas...
Cheers
http://www.geocities.com/levinboyz
[Updated on: Thu, 15 July 2004 01:39]
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Location: Brisbane
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Thu, 15 July 2004 05:55
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My 18R-GEU ECU did a similar thing when I first wired it up, ie all injectors opened up and flooded the engine. It turned out to be something not grounded properly, so check ALL of your ground wires (there are several).
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Location: Borneo - Land of the Head...
Registered: April 2003
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Sun, 18 July 2004 15:45
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Norbie!... I have grounded all pins properly. Nothing seems to be shorted out. Now I might be suspecting there is something wrong with the signal coming out from the coils that I was using which was from a BD Mazda 323 E5 engine and a KM36 liteace van. Could the coils be a problem?, one guy I talked to said they could be used. Another guy said the signal coming out from the coil is too strong. FYI this engine is not popular here cause it was never imported here. Sould I resource other coils, maybe 4AGE?... anybody.. any ideas..
Cheers
http://www.geocities.com/levinboyz
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Location: Terrigal
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Mon, 19 July 2004 04:15
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I dont know if it helps you or not but i've got a pair of original 3t-gte coils if you are interested.
Cheers
Joel
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Location: On your mum!
Registered: May 2002
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Re: 3T-GTE Injector Control
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Mon, 19 July 2004 05:54
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Every import that I have had has had 2 or more injectors that are sticking - I just give them some light raps with a screw driver until they come alive - this has worked a treat each time.
Another cause could be the signal from the airflow meter - there are 2 pins which are for the fuel pump relay (which is a flip flop relay) getting it's first signal from the cranking position on the ignition switch and the second comes from the airflow meter when the ignition is returned to the ON postion.
Good luck
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