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Mr DOHC
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ignition system volages Sat, 17 July 2004 08:18 Go to next message
i think i might have too much volage running thru my coil/points ect

where should i check and what should the voltages be
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Norbie
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Re: ignition system volages Sat, 17 July 2004 11:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
What makes you think the voltage is too high?

The voltage on the low-tension side should be ~12-14v, or ~8v if used with a resistor. The high-tension side should be ~20kv and above, but you don't really want to try checking that with a multimeter!
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Mr DOHC
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Re: ignition system volages Sat, 17 July 2004 11:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
cause i keep having sparks jump from my coil tower to the terminals, even after 300m of elec wiring, just shoots thru it

btw, i have an 18RG points dizzy, with a ballast resistor and resisted plugs, and the rest is stock RT104 18RC
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fade-e
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Re: ignition system volages Sat, 17 July 2004 11:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Laughing hell no, leave that poor old multimeter alone... besides more spark is better Very Happy ...

but if you are using a points dizzy then the points will burn alot and you would be changing them quite often.

anopther thing you could do is get the coil plug from the dizzy and put it to the chassis and check how far it jumps when cranking... from what iv found (not sure if good judgement) but should be able to hold it bout 1/2cm away and see the jump of spark... if you can hold it 2cm away and still see it then HELL YEAH you got high voltage Laughing
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fade-e
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Re: ignition system volages Sat, 17 July 2004 11:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Shocked dude looks like your coils FARKED... but before we go there how do you mean spark jumping from tower to terminal? what do you mean by tower and which terminal?
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Norbie
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Re: ignition system volages Sat, 17 July 2004 12:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Sounds like you have dodgy leads. Check their resistance with a multimeter.
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earlyrolla
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Perth
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May 2003
Re: ignition system volages Sat, 17 July 2004 12:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Check that you have not only have a good contact set and condensor, but the internal terminals of your cap are clean, the rotor button is in good condition and the HT leads are all good.

Sparks down the side of the coil can be from a number of causes.
1) Your coil is dirty and cause tracking (sparks) along the dirt, Solution clean the coil.
2) There is excessively high resistance through the rotor/cap contact, leads etc resulting in the spark taking the path of least resistance (down the side of the coil), Solution, change damaged components.
3) Again excessively high resitance due to stuffed plugs/incorrect plugs, Solution put in new plugs.
4) As fade-e said, the coil tower has been cracked resulting in tracking, Solution change coil.

[Updated on: Sat, 17 July 2004 12:11]

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Mr DOHC
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Re: ignition system volages Sun, 18 July 2004 12:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
new leads, new plugs, new cap and rotor, coil lead wouldnt fit so i re-used the old one, dont have spare coil
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fade-e
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Re: ignition system volages Sun, 18 July 2004 12:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
this is going to be a stupid question and i know everyone is goona freak out BUT when the car is running and you hold the coil lead on the dizzy side do you get electricuted? what bout from the coil side?

if you get electricuted on dizzy side then probably lead, if from coil side then there is a leak somewhere there...

I KNOW GUYS THIS IS NOT SOMETHING YOU SHOULD BE DOING BUT HEY GET OVER IT AND TRY.

alsom you can pretty much use any cylinder coil. so if your parents car has a cylinder coil then try it. if it still happens then it is ballast resistor
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Norbie
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Re: ignition system volages Sun, 18 July 2004 12:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I recommend NOT touching any of the high-tension leads while the engine is running. Common sense dictates that 20,000 volts isn't something you should be playing around with.

If you want to find out if the coil is firing there are far more sensible ways to do it. Just disconnect the lead from the distributor and hold it close to (but not touching) any metal part of the body, using a pair of pliers with insulated handles. Crank the engine and you should see nice fat sparks jumping across the gap - that means your coil is working, and no-one had to get electrocuted!
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fade-e
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Re: ignition system volages Sun, 18 July 2004 13:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
hey norbie i mentioned that in my earlier reply. im saying to hold lead to see for leaks and i DID say that it is something you shouldnt be doing but electro therapy isnt bad Rolling Eyes Laughing

nah its not funny as it can be harmful to you but it still is something to try... at the end of the day go to an auto electrician and get them to check if you dont know what else to check
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earlyrolla
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Re: ignition system volages Sun, 18 July 2004 14:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I assume you are running the correct point gap and plug gap. Excessive plug gap also increases system resistance.

Coils dont often stuff up (compared with other ignition components). You should be able to physically inspect the tower of the coil for any cracks (with the engine off Very Happy ).

Sounds like the coil-to-dissy lead might be a problem. The lead can have an internal breakage. 9 times out of 10 the electricity will jump the internal break, the other 1 time the electricity will discharge down the side of the coil tower.

As Norbie said earlier, pull the lead off and compare the resistance of the lead to the other new leads. At least then you can eliminate it as being the problem.
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toynado
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May 2004
Re: ignition system voltages Mon, 19 July 2004 06:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
electrocution means you die
not get shocked
do you not know that the voltage in a car ignition can cause yor hand and other muscles to clamp onto ANY object
like the live wire
and YOU WILL BE UNABLE TO LET GO NO MATTER WUT YOU TRY !!!
yor skin normally caries this kind of voltage and you can feel it in the right atmospheric conditions
it's wut fries electronics and killed the NASA engineers that led to inventing static free plastic for electronics

never ever mess with electricity
household voltage can VERY easily kill you
all you haf to be is wet
car voltage is 20+ times as much
never touch the high voltage wires with the thick insulation while the ignition is on
clean or replace yor coil
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CrUZsida
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Re: ignition system voltages Mon, 19 July 2004 08:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
toynado wrote on Mon, 19 July 2004 14:39

electrocution means you die
not get shocked
do you not know that the voltage in a car ignition can cause yor hand and other muscles to clamp onto ANY object
like the live wire
and YOU WILL BE UNABLE TO LET GO NO MATTER WUT YOU TRY !!!
yor skin normally caries this kind of voltage and you can feel it in the right atmospheric conditions
it's wut fries electronics and killed the NASA engineers that led to inventing static free plastic for electronics

never ever mess with electricity
household voltage can VERY easily kill you
all you haf to be is wet
car voltage is 20+ times as much
never touch the high voltage wires with the thick insulation while the ignition is on
clean or replace yor coil


Dude, its current that kills, not voltage.
And the current levels at idl/sub 2k rpm are harmless.
They give a bit of a kick, and leave your hand tingling for a few mins, but they wont kill.
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Cool1
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Re: ignition system voltages Mon, 19 July 2004 08:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
CrUZsida wrote on Mon, 19 July 2004 18:26

toynado wrote on Mon, 19 July 2004 14:39

electrocution means you die
not get shocked
do you not know that the voltage in a car ignition can cause yor hand and other muscles to clamp onto ANY object
like the live wire
and YOU WILL BE UNABLE TO LET GO NO MATTER WUT YOU TRY !!!
yor skin normally caries this kind of voltage and you can feel it in the right atmospheric conditions
it's wut fries electronics and killed the NASA engineers that led to inventing static free plastic for electronics

never ever mess with electricity
household voltage can VERY easily kill you
all you haf to be is wet
car voltage is 20+ times as much
never touch the high voltage wires with the thick insulation while the ignition is on
clean or replace yor coil


Dude, its current that kills, not voltage.
And the current levels at idl/sub 2k rpm are harmless.
They give a bit of a kick, and leave your hand tingling for a few mins, but they wont kill.

Your wrong on that one. It only takes 1 volt to put your heart beat out to cause a heart attack. You just have to get the shock on the right part of your heart cycle and your dead.
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CrUZsida
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Re: ignition system voltages Mon, 19 July 2004 08:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Cool1 wrote on Mon, 19 July 2004 16:33

CrUZsida wrote on Mon, 19 July 2004 18:26

toynado wrote on Mon, 19 July 2004 14:39

electrocution means you die
not get shocked
do you not know that the voltage in a car ignition can cause yor hand and other muscles to clamp onto ANY object
like the live wire
and YOU WILL BE UNABLE TO LET GO NO MATTER WUT YOU TRY !!!
yor skin normally caries this kind of voltage and you can feel it in the right atmospheric conditions
it's wut fries electronics and killed the NASA engineers that led to inventing static free plastic for electronics

never ever mess with electricity
household voltage can VERY easily kill you
all you haf to be is wet
car voltage is 20+ times as much
never touch the high voltage wires with the thick insulation while the ignition is on
clean or replace yor coil


Dude, its current that kills, not voltage.
And the current levels at idl/sub 2k rpm are harmless.
They give a bit of a kick, and leave your hand tingling for a few mins, but they wont kill.

Your wrong on that one. It only takes 1 volt to put your heart beat out to cause a heart attack. You just have to get the shock on the right part of your heart cycle and your dead.

Actually it only takes between 10-20mA to upset the rhythm of your heart, and then from about 20mA to 1A its not as fatal, and from 1A up its deadly again.

At least thats what I have been told on numerous occasions from numerous lectures.

But hey, maybe they were all getting it from the same source Rolling Eyes
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Cool1
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 08:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
When you put the rhythm of your heart out it stays out. This is what causes the heart attack.
This is not the same as going for a long run which makes your heart beat quickly.
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fade-e
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 09:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
it is current that kills...

but guys like i said technically your not supposed to do what i said but it IS something you can try if you want/willing...

i use the back of my hand cause when you get shocked your hand clamps in and if you use the palm/front of your hand then YES it will grasp the lead and hold on causing more harm but the back will clamp away and off...

i dont make a habit of doing it but when all else fails at the moment of problem then ill do anything to try and find the problem... thats just me and no one has to copy me or follow suite... iv mentioned something i do and also advised of the consequences and that it SHOULDNT be done but hey we dont ALWAYS do the right thing in the right way... you use what you have at hand
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Cool1
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 09:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
fade-e wrote on Mon, 19 July 2004 19:03

it is current that kills...

So does the heart attack.
Its not just current that kills. Any amount of voltage big or small can put your heart out.

[Updated on: Mon, 19 July 2004 09:19]

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Mr DOHC
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 11:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ACTUALLY, u have all gotten off the topic
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oldcorollas
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 11:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Laughing

last time (since no-one else mentioned it) you need only a small current to stop the heart, but you need a much larger voltage to get this current INTO the heart, in the first place.. 20-30kV should do it nicely Wink

as for your leaky coil...

check your plug gaps... bigger they are, bigger the resistance is. if they are NGK's, did it have 11 or 12 at the end? or are they 0.8 std gap?

next swap the coil/dizzy lead with a borrowed one if need be.

next CLEAN the coil, and anywhere else you see stray sparks.. oil and spark (heat) creates conductive carbon Wink further increasing stray sparks..

after that, could be a problem coil... it's not a 'high power' coil is it?

coils do die.. i have a few dead ones.. that usualyl happens when you are furthest from home, or it's early in the morning and everythings closed...

if all else fails, borrow a coil to try...

good luck,
Cya, Stewart
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oldcorollas
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 11:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i should also add, with typical spark voltages, you'd expect spark to jump an "air gap" of 20-30mm...

if you see the spark tracking a larger distance over a surface than this, the surface is conductive and allowing the spark to travel over the surface.
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Jayem
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 11:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr DOHC: You might remember that I posted about my similar problem a while ago. Anyway, got my problem almost eliminated. What I did was I changed coil HT wire to low impedance one. It's copper wire and ohms were around 2.6 . Ignition leads are normal high(?) impedance ones.
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earlyrolla
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Perth
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 12:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
One of the reasons that manufacturers use silicon impregrenated with carbon for ignition leads is to reduce the EM (electromagentic) interference created by copper leads. Copper leads where original equipment on early vehicles.

Provided you have a decent suppressor on your stereo you shouldnt pick up any interference using copper leads. I originally had all copper leads but had problems on cool, moist mornings with the leads arcing between each other, so I went back to 'normal' leads and have had no problems since.

Another thing when using copper leads, dont bring your multimeter near them. The EM off mine would f%^k with the multimeter as soon as I bought it near the engine bay to measure anything.
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fade-e
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 12:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Laughing yeah iv seen those multimeters go a bit crazy... you could use copper wires if you wanted but would be changing sparkies quite often... also the static could even interfere with TVs and stuff... i had to use copper wire once cause my coil lead stuffed up and it was funny... man the car screamed though as no resistance to sprakies...

Mr DOHC like i said, get your parents car coil and try it... takes 10min all up to test
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Jayem
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Re: ignition system volages Mon, 19 July 2004 14:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I was aware of EM interference but I gave it a try and I havent noticed any interference yet...
...and my multimeter didnt go grazy Cool .
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Mr DOHC
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Re: ignition system volages Tue, 20 July 2004 11:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i stole a coil from work, a TM carby trade in POS, and its FULLY FIXED Mad ,

cept that i have a small missfire, wasnt there b4, all the magnas have elec dizzy, not, points, could that be a problem
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earlyrolla
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Re: ignition system volages Tue, 20 July 2004 12:49 Go to previous message
It will lower the voltage to the plugs when used with a ballast resistor.

I dont recommend using it with out the ballast resistor either, it will quickly burn the contact set face.

Electronic dissys dont use a ballast resistor and hence the coils are wound slightly differently (different number of turns).

The ignition coil you have receives 12V during winding over (power from the starter circuit) and 8V once running (power through the ballast resistor).

You are better off just buying a new coil that is suitable for your ignition system (use with resistor). They cost the grand sum of about $30-$40 new...

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