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spectre
Regular


Location:
Perth
Registered:
July 2004
DIY Rust Removal Sat, 14 August 2004 08:18 Go to next message
My RA28's got some rust about it. The sills im going to get replaced, and get new ones welded on. And probobly a new bonnet. I have a little bit on the lower doors etc, and one or two spots near the boot. Now ive searched the forums and looked into POR15 which i plan on using. I was just wondering about the steps i need to do in order to rust proof the whole car?

- Do i need to take the whole car back to metal?
- Or can i just take back one or two layers by sanding then use POR15?
- What tools would i need?
- How long would it take?

I am planning on stripping the whole car, and the idea of covering the whole car in POR15 sounds like a good idea, as i awnt to be keeping the car for a while, and i dont want to have to deal with rust for a long time. Also, i was looking at using the POR15 bodyfiller for small holes etc?

All help would be greatley appreciated.
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Major Clod
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
August 2003
Re: DIY Rust Removal Sat, 14 August 2004 08:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
It really depends how dedicated you are to the project. If you really want to make sure every piece of rust is gone from your 28, you are going to want to take it back to bare metal. Just remember that if you have rust holes now, they are likely to get twice as big ones you start to work on them.

Your best friend will be angle and die grinders to attack the rust. If are using any filler on the car try and have metal behind it, otherwise it will eventually crack and fall out. Not something you want to happen after you've spent hours labouring over that new paint job.

The time you take on your car really is determined by how well you want to do the job. A good thing to do is take your estimation and double or triple it, thats how long it will take. I wanted to have my RA23 shell painted within a few months of purchasing it. Seven months later I've just gotten around to spraying my topcoat. I started off originally wanting to sand back the top layer and spray new, but it eventually turned into a full bare metal respray. Found some not so good jobs hidden under a little bit of mine, so I took the time to tidy those up too.

Best thing I can do to keep going is jump on toymods every now and then and check out some of the sweet cars here, really helps with the motivation.
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spectre
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
July 2004
Re: DIY Rust Removal Sat, 14 August 2004 09:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
So if i do decide to use some body filler, would i have to weld metal behind the hole? Is that what you mean? According to the POR15 site, their bodyfller is supposed to be a replacement for sheet metal? (obviously not as strong or to be used on structual joints though), and can stand oven temps, as i plan on having later having my car done in 2pac enamel

[Updated on: Sat, 14 August 2004 09:16]

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people100
Forums Junkie


Location:
Rocklea qld
Registered:
February 2003
 
Re: DIY Rust Removal Sat, 14 August 2004 11:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I would have thought that if you were welding bits in you wouldnt need the filler??? or is the filler just like bog that you can smooth it out over the top. got a website address for this stuff anyone?
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4ageeza
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Location:
Adelaide, drift capital
Registered:
May 2004
Re: DIY Rust Removal Sat, 14 August 2004 14:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I reckon for the best rust removal, check out the shit on this website: www.ppc.au.com

PPC sell POR15 rust preventative paint, and it is this shiz. Many other modders sware by it. Read the instructions before doing anything, cos there are some requirements before slapping on the POR15 such as treating with some Metal Ready surface prep. If you have some minor rust spots, I recommend getting the rust hole repair kit. I comes with everything you need to fix some half-decent sized rust spots. I have a kit, but am yet to use it. It looks to be good shit.
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spectre
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
July 2004
Re: DIY Rust Removal Sat, 14 August 2004 15:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
what sized holes are we talkin bout here?
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4ageeza
Forums Junkie


Location:
Adelaide, drift capital
Registered:
May 2004
Re: DIY Rust Removal Sun, 15 August 2004 14:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
i'd say the kit could repair about 5 x 35mm sq. holes as a guess. The kit includes a total of 160mls of filler.

[Updated on: Sun, 15 August 2004 14:37]

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Norbie
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
Re: DIY Rust Removal Mon, 16 August 2004 00:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Repairing holes with anything except metal is bodgy bodgy bodgy. Body filler should only be used in thin layers on top of metal, for purely aesthetic reasons.

Of course if you're a professional panel beater you can get away without using body filler at all, but that doesn't apply to most DIY'ers.
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jabtronic
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
July 2003
Re: DIY Rust Removal Mon, 16 August 2004 07:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Whilst on the subject of POR15. I've been searching around and have read that the paint can be applied straight onto sandblasted metal, I also read that the paint spreads out evenly when applied.

Just wondering if I sandblasted the external panels of my car and layered 2-3 coats of POR15 on them, would the surface be smooth or will the sandblasting imperfections show through the paint? If not, it just sounds too damn easy!! Very Happy
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TA22 GT
Regular


Registered:
November 2002
Re: DIY Rust Removal Mon, 16 August 2004 12:38 Go to previous message
jabtronic wrote on Mon, 16 August 2004 17:34


Just wondering if I sandblasted the external panels of my car and layered 2-3 coats of POR15 on them, would the surface be smooth or will the sandblasting imperfections show through the paint? If not, it just sounds too damn easy!! Very Happy


Yep, you're right. Its not that easy. You can't just fill small gaps or imperfections of any type with paint.
It shows everything, even things you didn't see when it was just undercoat.
A good paint job is about 95% preparation. Actually painting a whole car only takes about 3 or 4 hours. If it was that easy spray painters wouldn't charge people up to $10K for a showroom paintjob. Everyone would be doing it themselves in their sheds.

Check my site, I posted some info about painting there. Look under "Technical Info" from the main page.
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/celica.htm

Like Norbie said, the only way to fix a rust hole is to replace it with fresh metal, thats if you want it to last.
Also did a small section on this as well on my site
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/rust.htm

Hope this helps,
Simon


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