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I supported Toymods
Location:
NY
Registered:
May 2002
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20V and 16V and MK1 MR2s
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Wed, 15 May 2002 04:08
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Does any one know anything about an AE92 SX conversion from the 16v to 20v, ifso can you please post it as i am doing the conversion in the next few weeks and i will need all the help i can get.
Is the wiring as hard as my friends make it out to be??? I see it as easy using the standard ECU, please correct me if i am wrong.
Rebuilding a 16v Is it hard?? are there any tricks to know (i am new to the rebuild thing)
Mk 1 MR2s: does any one know where i can buy one, how much they are, are there any owners in the site?? I am thinking of rebuilding one, has any one any advice on any of the above???
Thanks
Leigh
White SX... Slo Xample (till the 20v goes in)
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 20V and 16V and MK1 MR2s
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Wed, 15 May 2002 05:27
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answered you post in the old forum
T
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 20V and 16V and MK1 MR2s
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Wed, 15 May 2002 08:32
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I have done a writup on my experience installing a 20V into an ae92 sx here http://www.4agze.com/tech/20v/index.htm
I also wrote up a bit more info on what I could remember about the wiring whic follows...
I sourced the wiring info from the internet...
I used a wiring schematic for the engine, and phil bradshaws 20V wiring guide...
http://www.turbocorolla.com/tech/images/silvertop_ diagram.jpg
Thats a link to my copy of the FULL 20V wiring diagram, its about 600K in size... I studied that for two months while I was waiting for the front-cut to arrive...
Attached is various other documents with info that I have gathered about the wiring too...
For the wiring, it took me about 4 half days and a few hours for a couple of nights once the new engine was in the bay... Before you pull your old engine out you can prepare the 20V for the swap with regards to belts, cleaning,wiring etc... I spent every night after work for a week and a half on this initial preparation...
I un-loomed all the engine and body loom from the front-cut and left all wires intact, apart from the body-loom plug (its about 30-something wires) which I chopped off to help with separating the ae101 body-loom (which you dont need) out from the engine loom (which you DONT want to cut any wires on to help with the conversion). There were a few wires that went to both looms, and I labeled these and chopped them off on the body-loom side of things. I also left the engine loom plugged into the 20V throughout the whole process which I think made things a bit easier because I didn't have to label the plugs that I didn't unplug! (note that most of the plugs have unique connectors so they only fit on what they are meant to plug into...)
After doing all this I had a huge bunch of wires running from the 2 main ecu plugs to all over the 20V engine (It seemed a bit daunting at this stage but it got a lot easier when I started grouping the wires into common sets and re-looming the whole lot)
Once the 20V and loom is organised, you pull out your old motor, and split the old engine loom from the ae92 body loom... in this case you want to keep the body-loom intact because you are going to splice the 20V engine loom into the ae92's body-loom and fuse box. To do the fuse box I sorted out the ae101 body-loom stuff from the ae101's fuse-box and chopped it all off... then I put the ae101's fuse box near the ae92's and started transferring the efi stuff across to the ae92's box and efi fusable links... this is fairly straighforward when the two are in front of you.
When I took out the old motor, I first unplugged all the engine harness from it and then ripped the motor out, once that was done I un-loomed the original engine and body looms so I could strip out the 16V engine loom, I think it was about 6 chopped wires and it was gone. Then the new motor went in and the other items(ignitor, starter relay, etc) were bolted into the bay and the joining of the looms starts... once again its only a few wires that need splicing between the two and that part is done... The fuse box and third ecu plug took me longer than merging the two looms, and getting my head around the starting circuit took me over half a day of head-scratching and checking wires with the multimeter...
For the starting circuit, there is a 4 wire plug with some thick wires on it, I think they are all black with each having a different colour fleck... Black with yellow, Black with orange, Black with red, and one other I cant think of right now... These are the wires that run to the ignition barrel. I pulled the 4 wire loom from the front cut, and ran that one through the firewall in the ae92 from the engine bay to just in-front of the center console area where there was another plug that accepted this loom (this accepting plug runs back up under the dash to the ae92 ignition barrel). In the ae101 the ignition loom runs from the ae101 ignition barrel, out the drivers-side kick-panel, and then through the engine bay near the brake booster etc, and then to its relevant compontents in the starting/ignition system... Like I said, just pull the ae101 ignition loom out of the front-cut, and run it throught the ae92 firewall and plug it into the ae92 ignition plug towards the front of the ignition barrel... It would have saved me almost a day if I had of known about this to start with...
There is also a 2 wire plug that has 2 THICK white wires in it running from the battery and somewhere else, there is also an existing plug behind the front area of the center-console that accepts this plug (I think its for the blower fan, but it just plugs in and it works...)
The air-con,temp sender, 12V, and oil pressure sender wires from the ae101's body loom plug run from the motor, through the ae92 firewall and then splice into the ae92's body-loom plug under the front of the center-console area too, replacing the original 16V's wires where necessary...
For the third plug on the ECU, I pulled the top cover off both ecu's to read the plug pinouts off the ECU PCB, and spliced the 20V's third plug into the original car loom that ran to the 16V's third plug... this was the last step I performed before completely re-looming the whole lot and starting the car...
just for intrest's sake, the car started first go after I bolted the ignitor to the strut tower so it had a ground!!!
Thats about all I can think of off the top of my head, but if you havfe anymore questions mail me and I'll see if I can remember some more...
Jason
[Updated on: Wed, 15 May 2002 10:41]
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