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Registered:
July 2004
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 TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Sun, 25 July 2004 11:43
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Gday,
I am looking at a TA22 and would like an idea of what would be involved and what I would need to change in order to get it working how I would like. Any help or opinions is appreciated.
1- Suspension
I would like suspension that would be suited to circuit or track performance but with some balance in terms of being able to be driven on Sydney roads without needing hip surgery when you hit a few unavoidable bumps. What would anyone suggest? I would like to replace everything with polyurethane and I think the springs in the car are ok already.
2- Interior
The entire interior will need replacing, seats, carpet, ceiling upholstery etc. I would like to know if anyone has replaced the interior with custom interior (like people do with modern cars for shows etc). I was wondering AROUND how much that would cost not using leather etc but felt and keeping a stockish but a little bit better look - not show but something you could show a girlfriend's father and still not be ashamed hehe.
Also just wondering what the cost of a centre console is worth for a TA22.
3- Driveline
When you accel hard, the tailshaft (I think thats what it is) goes BANG and (i think) hits the bottom of the car as it squats - how do you get rid of that? Will isntalling things like pineapples do that, or will I need to raise it (i dont think that will work)?
Also it has a custom tailshaft but it goes into the standard TA22 diff which I believe I will break in a matter of weeks. I have thought about having the diff rebuilt with mechanical centre and strengthened - does anyone know how much I would be looking at or is it a matter of finding a TRD diff (and even then how much would that be, and how many kw/hp would it be good for?)
4- Windows
A little niggling thing is the rear windows go down and rock back and forth (i assume thats normal). When you wind it back up it rocks back but not forward and gets stuck.. both sides need help/intervention to close by righting it with your hand.. this isn't a deal breaker but annoying when you have passengers - is there a way to make them go straight up and down or even power/electric all the windows?
5- Steering box
Is there a way to convert to rack and pinion and if so, does it need more room and how much and who can do it for me?
[edit: i am in Sydney]
Thanks very much if you're still reading this. I appreciate any feedback at all..
Thanks again!
[Updated on: Sun, 25 July 2004 11:54]
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Registered:
July 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Sun, 25 July 2004 21:53
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Thanks for the tolerance fade-e. It's appreciated!
I did search tho - atleast I tried. It's hard to search for suspension/driveline etc as keywords!! Otherwise I read everything back to last year that mentioned TA22 and every suspension/driveline etc that was on the last 5 pages i'm lazy but im not that lazy
1-
Ok as for brakes it has 11" mazda cross ventilated rotors on the front with the matching calipers. What about the suspension? I read a post that mackay sell them as suretrak brand but couldn't seem to search anything up on google.
2-
Do you know around how much I'd be looking at for the re-upholstering? Are we talkin under 1k or over 2k?
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sr20det - the motor is fine tho, *it* doesn't go bang. whatever goes bang does it in the back of the car. I THINK it may be the driveshaft hitting the body of the car as its forced to squat when you gun it. Any ideas there?
4-
Thanks!!! this makes sense now. Just out of interest because it's not in the door how the hell do you get in there to fix it? (maybe i can make my own?) I've read the how to on Simon's (TA 22 GT I think his nick is) about power windows but I don't understand too well about the chopping and changing, i guess it may make sense if I have the gear all in front of me but any more resource/advice on this would be awesome.
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Thanks for the link! I don't actually want power steering I want rack and pinion. I will look into that link and look at the suitability of the 323 non-power steering steering.
Ouch bending struts no way I expect to put this on the track, not die in a firey ball of flame whilst trying to pick up my vertabrae off a tree! - Is there any other way to do the camber? Surely with proper parts you can?
Thanks again for your reply, it certainly shed some light on a few things for me!
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 01:33
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| cc__ wrote on Mon, 26 July 2004 07:53 |
1-Ok as for brakes it has 11" mazda cross ventilated rotors on the front with the matching calipers. What about the suspension? I read a post that mackay sell them as suretrak brand but couldn't seem to search anything up on google.
2-? Are we talkin under 1k or over 2k?
3-
sr20det - the motor is fine tho, *it* doesn't go bang. whatever goes bang does it in the back of the car. I THINK it may be the driveshaft hitting the body of the car as its forced to squat when you gun it. Any ideas there?
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1- time to read some books/sites on how suspension works and then work out what you need fromt here.
2- however much you want to spend.. anything form a few hundred to tens of thousands. depends how much you do yourself.
3-. so it's a fair guess you didn't build the car and are now suffering it's problems? go and get it looked at professionally. if there is a bang, and you don't know exactly what it is.. i wouldn't be "gunning it" until i knew exactly what was causing it...
if it is tailshaft, and car is squatting.. what do you think it is
it's too hard to say what you need to do and change. it's something that you will either need to pay someone for, or read up on the theory of how suspension works and decide what you want to do with it.. "setting up for track and street" is a little vague.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 04:00
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ what oldcorllas said... but i will add this...
1. ask the person you bought it off whsat struts he put in it, also find out of they are adjustable. if they are then thats solves that issue, otherwise you can buy camber adjustment parts (but i dont know how reliable they would be in track racing)
2. full redo (carpet, roof, seats and dash) around $3k-$4k vinyl... the sky is the limit for leather... but if you are going to be taking it on the track, then i would suggest 2 froont buckets and harness, roll cage and get rid of the back seats (make sure it gets engineered for raod use too)
3. OK its and sr20det, and like oldcorollas said we can assume you didnt do it and dont know much bout it so once again, person you bought it off. ask what box is in it. also STOCK DIFF!!!!!! dont be gunning anything ARE YOU CRAZY? most definately diff but also could be stuffed/worn suspension (shocks/springs/bushes) BUT change the diff ASAP... you dont want to experience a diff blowing while driving or a tailshaft either... i have and is NOT good, arse end in the air with no control in the world NOT GOOD
4. i havent found anyone that can make and fit the bushes (but am still looking) but basically pull it all out and find out which one(s) is/are stuffed and take it from there... i havent reached that far in my rebuild to be starting to think of it or be worried bout it
5. if you dont want power steeringthen just rebuild the steering box, get new tie rods all over and pitman & idler arms (this is if they havent been done already)... i did all that other than steering box and mate the difference is AMASING, cant wait to do the box and see how it is after that...
BUT AT THE END OF THE DAY LIKE OLDCOROLLAS SAID
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it's too hard to say what you need to do and change. it's something that you will either need to pay someone for, or read up on the theory of how suspension works and decide what you want to do with it.. "setting up for track and street" is a little vague.
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so if you cant do it then expect pull the wallat out AND you better not be the shy type when it comes to money UNLESS you do it yourself (at least most of it)...
good luck and all the best with it mate... also get us pics if you can we at toymods love to see pics of our and other peoples babies 
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 04:12
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Regards rebuilding the steering box. If the gears are worn (worm and spider?), they are not avaliable anymore.
I tried everywhere to try and get some and turned up empty handed. The only option would be a gear maker to custom make some ($$$$).
Hence my RA28 now having a manual rack n pinion setup.
Suspension... depending what you want, but can't go wrong with a set of Koni's, new bushes, ball joints, adjustable front and rear swaybar & correct spring rates for your application (I run 275lbs at the front and plan on 220 for the rear).
Cheers
Joel
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 04:34
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ARE YOU SERIOUS?  SPEWING
oh well luck i got 3 boxs at home... time to mix and match hopefully otherwise pull out thew wallet 
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 05:15
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Yeah I had a few spare boxes and tried mix n matching stuff but seemed it was all as bad as each other, I guess you have to assume that they are all close to 30 years old now.
Unless you can find a real low km one.
Another problem is I found my chassie rail started to crack behind the steering box. I had it welded up and after a few years of abuse started to crack yet again. I figure taking the stain off this area is a good thing.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 05:23
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so what did you put in its place? your '28 and my '22 have the same steering dont they?
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Location:
Terrigal
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 05:41
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In place of the steering box?
A KE70 rack.
The TA22 and RA's are similar, but not identical. I actually think a TA22 xmember would be easier to use than an TA23 one that I used.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 06:04
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sweet might look into that if i cant get the stock to get done
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I Supported Toymods
Location:
Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered:
March 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 07:43
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to get at the rear window mechanisms you have to remove all the trims back there, look in the body thats now exposed, you'll see the braces etc that hold and move the window. Unbolt window from the frame ... remove window .... now unbolt framing mechs and jiggle it out the biggest hole in the panel.... in this regard its a bit of a rubics cube puzzle.
installation is just the reverse and let me tell you adjusting the window allignment is a frustrating trial and eror job.
Hope this helps.
Nathan
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Registered:
July 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 26 July 2004 09:46
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Thanks alot of your reply guys.
I'll write down about the removal of rear so I can get in there. Thanks again everyone - it gives me a lot of food for thought.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Tue, 27 July 2004 09:58
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Hey guys about the bushes in the rear window the original are plastic if i remember correctly that are greased. They seem to swell at break with age.
I personal found enough remain in the side of my car to get the measurement to make my own out of bronze as 'self' lubricating and stronger then plastic.
I think i wrote the measurement now. I'll get back to on them if i can find them.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Tue, 27 July 2004 10:12
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not sure if anyone interested in hearing this but i have been contemplting making them from various different materials the option is yours but basically this is what i am thinking of doing...
making the bush completely solid. once mde i will drill the centre to the same size as the metal pice on the system. then cut it down the middle and end up with 2 halves. the 2 halves would fit around the metal shaft and then i want to drill a hole through the whole thing and have a nut and bolt go through to hold them in place
what are your opinions on this idea guys? i really believe it is feasible and would do a great job and if in future they broke then they would be easily replacable
but opinions on my idea please!!!!
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Tue, 27 July 2004 10:34
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you i dont thing the bush is supposed to turn and therefore if you drill straight through the whole thing and use a thin nut and bolt to clamp ity all together then it shouldnt come loose, possibly even use 2 nuts to ensure they dont. and if you drill it properly then the nut and bolt should not interfere with the side walls or general use of the window
the other option is as you said to unlimp the limp. put it through and relimp it over again
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
July 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Tue, 27 July 2004 11:56
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hey guys hows it going?
My names Joel, i am 16 and only just really got involved in Toyota's when my folks talked me out of the old valiants i loved so much for a little four cylinder, I only joined this site today on the advice of Super Cheap Auto. I couldn't help but notice u guys r all talking about the rear window winders in the TA22's. I actually only just finished fixing the drivers side in my car yesterday so heres how i did it listen up,
NB: Only remove one side at a time
1) I had to remove all the shit that covers up the bolts, IE. doors trims, back seats, seals in fact all sorts of shit u'll see when u go to do it (its just common sense after all).
2) I had to remove the winder mechanism (thats a shit of job especially when those slots on the top of the main track bolts break  .
3)After you've got it all out of the inside of the panel inspect the teeth, if there all complete then use a compressed air jack hammer to tap the Stopper (little metal loopy thing) out of the end of the main track, if not well quite frankly i don't know
4)I went down to my local Mitre 10 (i work there) and went to the sliding door parts isle and found the right sized wheel for the track AND the best thing is u can buy these with a thread sticking out (prob bout 10 or 20 mm)and a nylon lock nut.
5)UNBOLT THE GLASS from the mechanism i didn't break any but there is alot of stressing involved so better to be safe then sorry
6)After the glass is unbolted u have to drill out the rivet holes from behind, i actually found it easier to drill the backs out of them and tap them out with the jack hammer but it gives a really dodgy hole so your prob best to drill it properly
7) Mount the wheels in the holes and tighten the lock nuts
 grease the tracks and all the other rubbing parts for that matter with the best quality grease u can find not only does it make it all last longer but i also found my window winds up much smoother
9)slide the wheels into the track but make sure u've done it the right way around IE. the stopper u tapped out to-wards the bottom of the car
10) replace the stopper, u can either tap it back with the jack hammer or as i did just put a tank bolt in the using another lock nut as the stopper (this makes it easier to remove if my system plays up in the future)
11)now the fun part! putting it all back in, basically the reverse of how you pulled it out, if u r smart u would have only removed one at a time so u can use the other side as a rough model,
12) just in case u need it heres a ROUGH guide of how it all goes back in firstly BEWARE those two sided nuts r all different, two of them have got smaller circles and shorter threads, these r for the tops of your main track, the two longer ones r for the bottom onm the main track and the one with the larger circle is for that "L" shaped track if not put into the correct holes u r most likely gunna break the glass as u put them in. The part of the mechanism that has the actual winder sticking out of it goes under the main roller track, and the little black wheel needs to be put in the tiny little track down low to-wards the back of the car and the white piece of plastic needs to be slit into the "L" shaped track.
I know its all only rough but it should at least help and maybe get a few of u's out of trouble, it may not seem it but wots written there took hours of trial and error to get right so best of luck, if anyone in the Brisbane area has got this problem but couldn't be stuffed fixing it let us know and we'll see if we can't make some sorta deal My mobile numbers
0411 124 647 out of school hours cheers guys I'm off, lol still gotta do the passenger side yet.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 27 September 2004 03:20
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Celica Spares sells metal ball bearing rear window bushes i think
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Location:
ipswich queensland
Registered:
April 2004
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Location:
Kellyville, Sydney
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Mon, 27 September 2004 08:09
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before you undo any of the window stuff take a can of spray paint and paint a spot over each nut. this way when you put it all back together you get the lateral position right first go and only have to muck around with screwing them in and out.
chris
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Location:
brisbane
Registered:
February 2004
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Re: TA22 that needs work - experienced help please!
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Tue, 28 December 2004 04:26
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Try Fulcrum suspension for the TA22 steering box. Last time I checked, they did rebuilt boxes for around $300 with a warranty.
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but good luck... GT celicas came out with power windows but once again good luck finding them
