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ed_ma61
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bog tips... Tue, 28 December 2004 11:44 Go to next message
just thought id share some tips about using bog that ive learnt over the past few days... feel free to add Nod

1 - stir the can: the filler has a tendancy to sink to the bottom
2 - there is such thing as too much catalyst
3 - a rubber or plastic squeegy is no match for a good (LONG) strip of thin (kinda flexible) s.steel or aluminium
4 - longer applicators are far better than small ones
5 - look at the size of the defect you want to fill, then triple it: this is where you bog will extend to
6 - there is no such thing as 'a little bit of bog'
7 - wipe in atleast 2 perpendicular directions
8 - doing it in the dark with a single, very oblique spotlight is an excellent way of checking for low and high spots. move the spotlight around to check in atleast 2 dimensions
9 - never do it in the sun, esp in summer
10 - never mix bog + catalyst in the same container twice - tiny bits of solid debris from the last mix can be the end of an excellent application
11 - know, when messing around and re-wiping an applied section of bog, when enough is enough. MUCH better to leave a small mistake, and come back to it with a fresh layer, than to completely fuck a good job cause it went off ever so slightly
12 - orbital sanders are NOT an easy way of getting out of sanding
13 - spongy sanding blocks might be good for finishing, but NOT for levelling bog
14 - cork sanding blocks are teh sh1t

thats it for now - ill ad more as i think of em Smile

ed

[Updated on: Tue, 28 December 2004 12:59]

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thechuckster
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Re: bog tips... Tue, 28 December 2004 12:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
can i add?

15 - use new bog - buy enough for the current job, not the entire car
16 - use the same brand/type bog and same catalyst
17 - bog with fibreglass/metal is not structural
18 - buy lots of chinese food prior to bogging event and save all the tubs and lids for mixing bowls
19 - thick tupaware lids also make good spreaders (but don't tell mum/gF/wife/partner)
20 - you will get dust everywhere - and once you use the hose to clean-up or with wet-n-dry, you're done boggin' until it's fully dry
21 - clean up between each application - dont bury rubbish between layers of bog
22 - practice first
23 - use wooden (dowel) rods for mixing sticks - and don't re-use them - kitchen butter knive are also good (but note advice in #19)


prank hint: encase someone's car/house keys in bog and leave in sun/heat to dry, is hours of fun watching them remove it from the grooves and teeth. If you include the alarm thing, they can't use a hammer on it. Very Happy
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ed_ma61
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Re: bog tips... Tue, 28 December 2004 12:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thechuckster wrote on Tue, 28 December 2004 23:10



20 - you will get dust everywhere - and once you use the hose to clean-up or with wet-n-dry, you're done boggin' until it's fully dry




dont you just *hate* waiting... leads me to:

24 - be patient! WAIT for it to be fully dry before sanding also. dont get enthusiastic and try to get too much done in one session


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draven
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Re: bog tips... Tue, 28 December 2004 12:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
aahh.. the memories of 24
great way to ruin a new sheet of sand paper in about 3 seconds, clogged with all the half-baked bog it just took off your great job (and sometimes in chunks that ruins said job)
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oldcorollas
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Re: bog tips... Tue, 28 December 2004 12:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tip 25 - do NOT under any circumstances breath in bog dust. it's nasty shit and will not improve your lung efficiency.

tip 26 - when all else fails, a kilo or two of 2 part brick epoxy will nearly give sufficient strength to collapsed sill jacking points on datsuns. (even when lifted by those points by the rego guy.. cringe Rolling Eyes )

good tips Ed Smile especially "know when to stop messing about with wet bog, or it will go feral"
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Toobs
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 00:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Re: point 12.
A wire brush cup installed on the end of your angle grinder will cut through bog like butter.
Once you've done it a few times you should be able to flatten the bog to a point where you only need a moderate sanding to complete the job.
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dingaling
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 05:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
"8 - doing it in the dark with a single, very oblique spotlight is an excellent way of checking for low and high spots. move the spotlight around to check in atleast 2 dimensions"

Another great method i found while bogging a few dents in my bonnet was to use a tissue and your hand. (no it's not what you think)

Place the tissue over the area your working, and put your hand on the tissue, now rub around and feel all the imperfections and out of shape bits that you can't see! the tissue makes it silky smooth to rub around and feel the surface. You'll soon relize u need more bog/sanding coz it's never perfect the first time.

I swear this is more accurate then looking with your eyes!
give it a try and be amazed.

[Updated on: Wed, 29 December 2004 05:38]

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river
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 05:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Hi,

Tip 27 - Don't use it.

Bog sux. Weld in metal and do it properly. Smile

seeyuzz
river
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rthy
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wtf is a jabber? a punch line?
Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 05:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
wat a good way to do "levelling bog"?
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brett_celicacoupe
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 06:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
this should go in the tech article section Smile

tip28- (i got told this by a spray painter/panel beater)
always go over your bog with a wire brush to open up all the little bubbles inside the bog. this should be done when u have the bog about 3/4 straight then u wire brush it, then u rebog it , sand it again(or if u are really particulate wire brush it again to get out further bubbles from the 2nd bog session).

the reason u need to get all the bubbles out is beacause when it gets painted, the solvent from the paint can react with the air in the bubbles and expand, leaving bubbles all through your new paint job/repair.

brett
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TA-022
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
any stripping bog tips?

i got a shit load ive recently found in my Work In Progress TA22 shell.

quite frankly im near ready to toss the thing if i cant find a better way than a chiesel and hammer!

Cheers

Nathan
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justcallmefrank
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I was originally stripping the paint from my car with the 3M paint stripping discs you mount on a drill. The coarse one will rip straight through bog.
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brett_celicacoupe
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
TA-022 wrote on Wed, 29 December 2004 20:02

any stripping bog tips?

i got a shit load ive recently found in my Work In Progress TA22 shell.

quite frankly im near ready to toss the thing if i cant find a better way than a chiesel and hammer!

Cheers

Nathan



go out and buy a 230mm grinder from bunnings warehouse or similar (cost me like $89 and has 2 yr. warranty). now go and buy a 200mm backing disc that screws straight onto your grinder which is capable of having a 200mm sticky disc attached. now buy the sticky discs in about 36grit


this is what i used, and it cut the bog/paint of like butter. just be careful not to get the metal to hot or it can warp.

brett
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ed_ma61
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
any pics of your panels nath?
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justcallmefrank
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Good ones or the bad one?
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ed_ma61
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
hows about both?
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justcallmefrank
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Kinda hard to pick in the photos I have. It is going back to the spray painters to be touched up and they have some things to fix like the rear quarter.

Pics are here:
http://iamfrank.ath.cx/panels/bad.jpg
Big ass dent in panel still I told them to remove which they didn't. Bog not perfect either, they are going to fix it. Was some weirds ass dents there I had to basically tap in and fill.

http://iamfrank.ath.cx/panels/good.jpg
http://iamfrank.ath.cx/panels/quarters.jpg
http://iamfrank.ath.cx/panels/doors.jpg
These ones are okay. They all had holes filled from where bump strips used to be. Slight indent in the rear quarter in the first pic that I need them to fix as the bog sank a tad.
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TA-022
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 09:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
http://users.tpg.com.au/nbdean/pict0054.jpg
http://users.tpg.com.au/nbdean/pict0057.jpg
http://users.tpg.com.au/nbdean/pict0049.jpg

thats the worst.... but sills were bogged about 5mm thick to avoid pulling dents.

prob is some bog was done right with the rust removed....other spots the bog was just slapped on without removing rust.

i always check those special spots before paint work and this just proves preparation is the key, can you imagine spots coming up 6months after a fresh costly paint job?!

Cheers

Nathan

[Updated on: Wed, 29 December 2004 09:56]

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allencr
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tallahassee FL usOFa
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 16:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bondo leveler
surform - "a Stanley register trademark name"- just the blade works ok, or get the whole thing.
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M.W.P.
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 16:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
So what brand bog do you guys use?

Im having problems with my bog work contracting/expanding over time.
Im using Kahfil.
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YelloRolla
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 21:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
#29 - bog is best mixed by using a paint scraper on a piece of glass (I use an old KE20 door glass which is on the large side) while you mix the catalyst with the putty, you push it down on the glass and dispel air bubbles as you go.
#30 - get yourself a cheap rasp - the type with a holder and that is made from pressed metal with small louvres - then you shape the bog down before it has cured and it takes a lot of the sanding out of the equation - FHP tools has an excellent example.
#31 - buy yourself a speed file (also affectionately known as a torture board in some circles). This is just a long sanding board that makes getting the job straight a lot easier.
#32 - best to leave the repair a little bit full rather than low - low spots show up very easy. Slightly full repairs can be easily brought to perfection when you are sanding the grey primer.

Sorry for the length of tips - I hope that you find them useful.
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granmra40
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Re: bog tips... Wed, 29 December 2004 23:55 Go to previous message
I built a car many years ago out of necessity. I can not remember alot of detail. The body I had to work with had rather large holes. I did not have a welder and was only a shopping trolly for the missus.

I do remember grinding and using rust converter. I used aluminium mesh and rivets to shape areas. Then bog, grinding and sanding. I remember using products called spot putty and spray putty with intermediate sanding to get the absolute smooth contour before undercoat.
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