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Location:
South Eastern Subs
Registered:
March 2004
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Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Fri, 21 January 2005 05:53
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Hey peoples..1 I am interested in fitting a trans cooler to my soarer auto (A340) trans. The reason is I just finished the engine and while it goes good its laggy off take off... But when you stall the car to say 2500 rpm its a different car of the line. Now I wanted to know how bad is it to stall the stock trans??? I know the oil cooler will help cause stalling the converter generates heat, but will it be sufficient for short stalling off the lights. Also does anyone if converting to synthetic oil cause it? I am not going to be doing this all the time but when I do I just want to know if i will bust the trans or any driveline component??
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Location:
Montrose, VIC
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Fri, 21 January 2005 05:55
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If you don't already have a cooler, go ahead and stuff the biggest one you can get in there. Also, I'd highly recommend putting a kit in the trans.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
July 2004
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Fri, 21 January 2005 06:01
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have a look at the bottom of your radiator, see the two little hoses either side of the main coolant hose that goes to the engine, they are transmission fluid hoses, your car already has a transmission cooler 
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Location:
sunny coast, qld
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sat, 22 January 2005 00:22
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| MR 1GGTE wrote on Fri, 21 January 2005 17:01 |
have a look at the bottom of your radiator, see the two little hoses either side of the main coolant hose that goes to the engine, they are transmission fluid hoses, your car already has a transmission cooler
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IMO that method of cooling is pretty poor. It may be ok for a stock non-thrashed car but once you up the power and do a bit of racing I think a proper trans cooler is a must. Think how hot the radiator gets. Then the hot auto fluid will be going through the very bottom of it ie. not getting much airflow.
I have a trans cooler that is about 40cm X 30cm or so front mounted at the moment. In the future I will be moving it so I can also fit an 8" thermo fan to it.
Heat kills these autos so I would be doing anything possible to keep the heat down. I have heard of people putting ice on their trans coolers before drag racing also.
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Location:
South Eastern Subs
Registered:
March 2004
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sat, 22 January 2005 03:25
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thats sounds right...but what will i get out of a trans kit..i have one on my hq but thats to get more violent shifts...i don't really want that in this car...will it improve the kick down time..cause it takes it ages to respond and drop to a lower gear when you put your foot down...
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Location:
sunny coast, qld
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sat, 22 January 2005 03:38
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I think the main thing is longevity. I don't think it would help the shift quality or timing all that much unless the fluid is already running too warm and needs to be cooled a bit more to get to proper operation temperature.
I can't tell you exactly as I have always had one on my car.
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Location:
Wollongong
Registered:
November 2004
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sat, 22 January 2005 05:00
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Shift kitting the auto CAN make the shift harder depending on what you do...
Usually a shift kit just makes the box a bit stronger, until you "stage 2" kit them which changes how it shifts etc...
The taking time to kick down is actually how the computer is programmed to control the box... Soemthing I am planning on fixing for users like you...
The trans cooler is a good idea for you as well.
When you stall up the car, above the torque convertors rating, it heats fluid badly...
Your standard torque convertor is probably a 1800RPM stall convertor, in other words, you shouldn't rev the car harder then 1800RPM while holding the brakes unless you want to damage the gearbox and TC...
Holding the box at 1800RPM and then planting the foot as you release the brakes would be alot safer then 2500RPM (Unless you have an upgraded TC)
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Toymods Board Member
I supported Toymods
Location:
Turramurra, Sydney.
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sat, 22 January 2005 09:41
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Get a big tranny cooler, hook it up after the standard radiator cooler (so the fluid goes through the rad then through the new cooler) and only use the toyota type-IV transmission fluid, it's the best stuff you can get & alot cheaper than any "performance" tranny fluid.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Mon, 24 January 2005 09:29
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even my stock ma70 has an aftermarket auto cooler courtesy of my ma61 into ma70 radiator upgrade...
it would be 180x350 and still gets damn hot..
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Location:
South Eastern Subs
Registered:
March 2004
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Fri, 28 January 2005 07:28
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Sweet...sorry for the late response, but got disconnected for while from the net...that all sounds good, but I think the standard soarer converter is 2200rpm, I read it somewhere and the gears are 4:56 so holding it at 2500 won't be too bad for a short time, its just that the transition has a low volume of oil capacity so it heats up quick, so adding the cooler with a little thermo fan when stalling should solve my problems for now. Too expensive to get a stall converter although it would change the car completely and I don't know who would do a shift kit for my transmition??? Although i know it extends the live for the transmition. The only reason I wanted to convert to synthetic oils is because it stands heat much better and apparently cause its thinner it improves the standard stall limit... That’s what I got from my research? But may wrong on that...
But yeah I take it easy on her, just sick of Hydnais having a better take of then me, until boost that is 
Thanks for the advice...
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Fri, 28 January 2005 07:30
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MV Automatics in Adelaide do shift kits for Toyota autos.
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Fri, 28 January 2005 22:58
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Hi there mate-
I wrote a fair bit of crap down about the Toyota trans in another thread and it should tell you most stuff you need to know about it. You can ignore the manual shift box stuff though as your car was fitted with the trans and so has full auto capability.
The main thing to remember is COOLING, COOLING, COOLING. Do that first-and don't skimp. A thermo fan type setup is without question the way to go (although dick smith computer fans are all you need.)
Take it easy
Sean
Hi there mate-I'm using a full manual shift supra 4spd auto box in my crown, and with regard to your last question, wether or not the manualised auto is a bandaid solution depends on what you're after.
If you are after a car to attack bends-one you really want to drive hard-the go would really be a manual box.
Alternatively, if you are interested in more straight line stuff and the car you are building up isn't really one for twisty stuff the auto is the sensible choice, (cressida?-It'll only ever be average through the bends unless you spend mega$$$-and then it'll ride like a dog). I'd also guess that living in Whyalla means there aren't too many twisty roads...(I've been there a few times). I went auto as the crown handles like a complete turd regardless and I wanted to build a package for 1/4 mile stupidity.
(as an aside, your first ride in a Turbo car with good power and a tricked up auto can be quite an eyeopener. THERE IS NO TURBO LAG, or indeed ANY LAG once the car is on boost. Each time you upshift the box jumps instantly into the next gear, the boost increases and the car takes off. For straight line stonk, a turbo and a tricked up auto are a brilliant combination.
My opinion is that you'd be better off with the auto in a car like a Cressida in a pretty flat regional area. A manual conversion will cost a fair bit and may involve a few hidden costs. (tailshaft mods, speed sensor mods, crossmember mods, pedalbox install, clutch master cyl install etc) The other thing is that the gun supra turbo boxes are pretty pricey and a good clutch is also going to be expensive. You can go ceramic puck type clutch to save cash-but they aren't exactly traffic/driveway/carpark friendly. Driving a manual car with lots of grunt is great fun (the crown sure was with a 250+rwkw 5Mturbo)-but in my opinion a manual conversion for a cressida is probably a fair bit of cash spent for not much gain. If it was manual to begin with, sure, but to convert to a non-recoed manual box (ie not modded to handle grunt and may need an expensive rebuild after a few hard miles) will be about the same dollars as getting the existing auto sorted to handle anything you dish out.
Another thing to consider is the impact that converting to manual can have on the car. When you drive a manual car hard, every time you slam it into the next gear it puts huge impulse forces through the drivetrain. For this reason the unis, diff, driveshaft unis and diff cradle bushes etc all get flogged out much faster in a manual car. You are also far more likely to snap something when getting a bit rowdy on the gas and clutch.
The manual shift trans is super easy to use, and because you can still run the Overdrive and converter lockup (also fully manual) it's brilliant for cruising. Because the auto OD ratio is lower than 5th in the toyota manuals-0.68 vs 0.75 or thereabouts-and the converters have the lockup function-you can get pretty awesome mileage out of them on the highway.
Some seem to think that manually shifting an auto would be a real pain, but consider that all you have to do is push the lever back and forth-no clutch, no H-pattern, and if you have had the valvebody done it shifts much faster than you can shift a manual (excepting dogboxes, Liberty drag manuals, airshifted manuals etc of course, but that is getting into purpose built race stuff-not mass produced stuff that gets modified)
A good aspect of going auto is that there are a series of things you can do bit by bit to improve the box to cope with increasing engine power.
Here's a rundown-
1. Manual shift transistor box. $180 or so-install yourself. (this means you can avoid possible headaches of getting the auto ECU working properly-often very hard when fitting later model engine/auto trans-This bit can cost a shitload if you have someone doing it for you) The MV box isn't a tiptronic/button type, it only hooks to the shifter and gearbox and doesn't specifically switch the OD or Lockup. You need to set that up yourself but they both only need to be 12V on/off. There IS someone who does the tiptronic setup though-he's on PERFORMANCEFORUMS-you can dig him up pretty easily if you post there.
2.Bigger transcooler-AN ABSOLUTE MUST WITH THESE BOXES-Anywhere from $20 to $200 depending on what you buy-you can also mount it away from the airflow if necessary by using a small fan strapped to the cooler. I've currently got two Dick Smith computer fans on mine and its mounted flat behind the headlight. (and it never gets hot)
3.Trans Temp indicator-$70-$300 (Ive got a cheap Splitfire one and it works a treat) Not mandatory, but good insurance if you are going to be giving it a hiding at times and you have spent some cash on the internals. Without one you run the risk of melting the guts of the box-and one good cooking is enough to fuck the fluid and fry all the friction material. Then keep driving it without knowing you've damaged it initially and you can start melting shit together (just like I did...=-).
4.Uprated valvebody-$300-$400 (from memory)this changes the actual shifts themselves. They become shorter and harder, reducing the time the box is slipping up into the next gear and heating up the clutchpacks. (heat is mainly what fucks auto clutch packs). The increased hydraulic system pressure in the valvebody also means that the gears are more tighty held.
5.Hi-stall Converter-$400-$500-an increased stall speed will give you better launches and neck snapping acceleration from slow speed due to the torque multiplication effect. It will thrash your fluid a bit more-but the trans temp guage and more trans cooling generally keeps it under control-if not, you just whack another trans cooler in. And on the open road you just hit the lock up and there's no slip in the converter to soak up fuel.
6.Full gearbox re-build for abuse...This is the last stop, and the biggest cost item $1500-$2000. This is all new friction materials, extra clutches for second gear (2nd gear is the weak link in the toyota (A340 etc) boxes), all new/upgraded thrust bearings/roller bearingsetc,machining to the actual trans case, other mods I can't remember. This is really only required when you start playing with bigish power levels and launching it with sticky rubber though. (I think around 400hp and up is the aviseable level) I'm currently pushing 700+nm through one and it hasn't missed a beat.
Anyway-there you have my complete rundown on the Toyota Auto option- maybe more info than you needed, but you get the whole picture then, (and once I started I figured I should finish it properly). I'm not an anti manual gearbox person, it's just that they aren't the best thing for some combos and can end up being pretty bloody expensive if you're aiming at big HP. One thing to remember with these sorts of conversions is to be very careful and plan what you are going to do before starting. Otherwise things get expensive(I've been there....) Doing it right to begin with will actually save you money.
Of course, if you have have designs on going drifting in the Cressida once it's done-disregard everything I've said-you'll need a manual.
Anyway, take it easy, and if you've if there is anything I've missed there just yell out.
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Location:
sunny coast, qld
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Fri, 28 January 2005 23:12
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| V8_MA61 wrote on Mon, 24 January 2005 20:29 |
even my stock ma70 has an aftermarket auto cooler courtesy of my ma61 into ma70 radiator upgrade...
it would be 180x350 and still gets damn hot..
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do you mean the oil gets hot or the cooler?
if it is the cooler, it should get hot. That is how it disappates the heat just like a radiator I would think.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sat, 29 January 2005 14:01
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| Chris Davey wrote on Sat, 29 January 2005 09:12 |
| V8_MA61 wrote on Mon, 24 January 2005 20:29 |
even my stock ma70 has an aftermarket auto cooler courtesy of my ma61 into ma70 radiator upgrade...
it would be 180x350 and still gets damn hot..
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do you mean the oil gets hot or the cooler?
if it is the cooler, it should get hot. That is how it disappates the heat just like a radiator I would think.
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yeah the cooler gets hot i meant...but i mean like VERY hot...hotter than i anticipated anyway :s and on long highway drives etc, i can feel a certain warmth on my left leg from the trans tunnel...
BTW..i hope you are keeping that box for me...are you coming down to brissie anytime soon?
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sat, 29 January 2005 21:41
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Thats the CAT / exhaust warming your leg
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Location:
sunny coast, qld
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: Stallling the A340 auto..will an oil cooler save the transmition???
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Sun, 30 January 2005 02:58
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| V8_MA61 wrote on Sun, 30 January 2005 01:01 |
yeah the cooler gets hot i meant...but i mean like VERY hot...hotter than i anticipated anyway :s and on long highway drives etc, i can feel a certain warmth on my left leg from the trans tunnel...
BTW..i hope you are keeping that box for me...are you coming down to brissie anytime soon?
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yeah still got it mate. hmm, I may be coming down sometime but not sure when or in whose car. If I come down, then I should be able to drop it off. Otherwise, it will still be sitting here 
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