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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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4AGZE Conversion
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Sun, 27 February 2005 11:58
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Hey guys, just wondering how much a 4AGZE would be to convert into an Sprinter(86)? Also, how much would i be looking at in buying the engine and all the necessary parts to get it running. Then how much power difference would i be looking at?
The only reason i am asking this as i may be given a Toyota Sprinter for free and im looking at ditching the old engine and putting one in. I've got around $6000 to play with and just looking at my options, you're comments would be much appreciated + advice.
Thanks in advance
- Trent
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Location:
wollongong NSW
Registered:
August 2003
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Sun, 27 February 2005 12:06
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before norbie gets here
SEARCH
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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Location:
Campbelltown, NSW
Registered:
November 2004
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Sun, 27 February 2005 12:20
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| imprsv wrote on Sun, 27 February 2005 23:08 |
Bah, was only asking.. people these days cant answer the same "similar" question twice.. By the way i cant find anything somewhat relevant to what im asking, so can u please refrain from posting unless you have something relevant to add to the topic..
Thanks,
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w3rd!
lol u cant ask a question about a conversion without some1 jumping down ur throat cause u didnt search 
ull get used to it dude, are u planning on doing the whole conversion yourself?
NOLAN
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Sun, 27 February 2005 12:31
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My old man is a mechanic so he probably will be either helping me put it in or ill get someone to do it. Was just looking for others previous experiences with putting them in and the prices etc so i sort of know where i am headed! Also would i need a Engineers Certificate putting in a 4AGZE in?
Hopefully someone can help me 
- Trent
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Sun, 27 February 2005 12:38
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IMHO - 6000 will get you everything you need to prepare for the conversion if your going to do it properly..
Brakes 1000
Suspension 2000
LSD rear end 1000
W5* Gearbox + bellhousing 1000
Wheels 750
Tyres 500
General interior update 250
theres your 6000 roughly..
add halfcut @ 3000 and 1000 for exhaust, IC pipes, wiring, fluids..
10k to do it properly...
Of course you could just buy half cut @ 3000 and insert for 1000.. still have 2 grand left over... but... thats not me...
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Sun, 27 February 2005 22:37
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Thats one hell of a way to spend 10k, i was planning hopefully to do it peice by peice. But thanks for putting down numeric figures for me to look at as a basis before starting..
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Sun, 27 February 2005 23:05
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Tech section of this website is a good start.
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Mon, 28 February 2005 02:46
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I am in the tech section aint i?
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
W.A
Registered:
May 2004
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Location:
Rosanna, Melb
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Mon, 28 February 2005 08:11
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Google it, there are a couple of very good sites that step through the process. Plus there's plenty of good stuff on here.
Basically the four major things you need to do are:
- modify the coolant pipes along the driver's side of the engine so they don't point straight at the firewall
- grind a corner off the lower SC mount so the engine mount can bolt on
- relocate the coil packs from the back of the head
- Turn the intake pipe through 180deg so it points forward
- and maybe a fifth, relocate the alternator so it clears your swaybar.
If you did it mega dodgy and cheap you could just get engine, loom and computer, plumb an EFI pump into your stock fuel pickup, relocate or ditch your intercooler, wire it up and drive away. However all the suggestions above are smart if you value your safety.
Hen
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Mon, 28 February 2005 09:43
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in reply to inertia: Yes i looked there but the 4AGZE conversion page is down for some reason. Thanks for the link but its not much help.
d-shiznit: you have a pm thanks again for you're helpful advice
Henn: Thanks for the information and ill take it on board when deciding wheather i should do the conversion or not..
Anymore information would be great
Thanks again.
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Location:
sydney
Registered:
November 2003
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Mon, 28 February 2005 09:53
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| d-shiznit wrote on Mon, 28 February 2005 18:29 |
With power... In turbo form expect 200 - 250 rwhp
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And the rest 
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Mon, 28 February 2005 10:51
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| imprsv wrote on Mon, 28 February 2005 20:43 |
in reply to inertia: Yes i looked there but the 4AGZE conversion page is down for some reason. Thanks for the link but its not much help.
d-shiznit: you have a pm thanks again for you're helpful advice
Henn: Thanks for the information and ill take it on board when deciding wheather i should do the conversion or not..
Anymore information would be great
Thanks again.
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Yeah it is unfortunately, I just checked  .
The other one on howto convert 4agze to RWD is still there thankfully.
http://www.geocities.com/anthonypedwell/Install.ht ml
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Location:
Lara, Vic
Registered:
February 2005
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Location:
brisvegas
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Tue, 01 March 2005 13:26
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mine cost me $5500 or so..done it all myself..$2300 for an 80 thou k AE92 Map sensor halfcut..$1200 was for a custom front mount too...parted with my old 4AGE to MR Kellam for the wiring as a trade and i was laughing with 105rwkw and a fat monstorous (in comparison) torque band..gave me 13.9 400m times too..stock..no high boost pulley or anything..4 puck clutch..
took a whole of about 27hrs to do (spread over 3 days)..weekend drive in and drive out..done it nearly a year ago and i'm still having fun! 
i have heaps of pics and a full write up..i'll post the write up tomorow at work (saved on work PC) and post a link to the pics..
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Tue, 01 March 2005 21:17
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Awesome! Thanks very much
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Location:
brisvegas
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Wed, 02 March 2005 04:36
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AE92 4AGZE Transplant into JDM AE86 Coupe
Parts Required:
If your sprinter had a 4AGE in it already factory or transplant half the stuff is there I will put an * next to the stuff that you would already have in your car, and you must re-use.
- 4AGZE front cut (mine was AE92 map version 165hp)
- * 8 bolt flywheel off 100kw/small port 4AGE and at the very least a heavy duty clutch, the ze produces nearly 40% more torque than the GE and carries it from idel to about 5000, then you get the 170 odd hp!
- * RWD 4AGE bell housing (as the starter and the slave cylinder are on opposing sides
- possibly need to change you clutch master cylinder, my old one shit itself with the new clutch
- * EFI fuel pump (most common bosch VL turbo pump) with fittings and hose
- * exhaust manifold from RWD 4AGE or extractors
- a wiring guy (I didn’t attempt to connect the 10 kgs!! Of wire I pulled out of the front cut)
- piping for your front mount (do not put the stock one under the bonnet just as much stuffing around as a front mount, and half as effective)
- alternator bracket off a 4A-FE as the alternator needs to be in the same place as on the 4AFE
- some 2” radiator hose, heater hose, and hose clamps , I got away with using most of my old stuff.
There are more parts, but you’ll get the idea in this guide.
Ok, now, there are many guides on the net about pulling your old 4A-C out and putting a GE or ZE in. and that is like any other engine, undo some bolts rip it out.
Now put your old engine mounts (providing they are good) put them on the ZE in the same place, the exhaust side will go straight on, BUT the intake side is a little tricky. This is nowhere on the net and I had to find out the hard way! The black bracket that connects the sc to the block, remove it, it about 7 inches long, then you will notice when you go to put the engine mount on, the corner of the SC bracket (big cast bracket) needs to be ground off to put the engine mount on, and a little dowl of stainless steel. Then bolt the mount on (sounds dodgy, but it’s the only way!).
Then i took all the engine harness out, I had to do this with both cars, and gave it to my wiring guy, he cut and soldered for a couple of days, and I had my loom to plug it in and start it up!
You will notice that the intake just near the throttle body (90 deg bend) needs to be reversed, but it fouls on the body itself, so you need to make a 10mm spacer plate, same holes, and use longer bolts. The throttle cable is up to you how you set it up, I used my existing cable, and turned the link around 180 deg, made a bracket, and I was set!
Another thing to watch out for, there are 2 cooling pipes that stick out the back of the engine one large one, and a small one, and these stick out the back of the engine too far, so I simply cut them a couple of inches short, and get some radiator hose with a 120 deg (not perfect) bend in it for both of them, and ran them under the supercharger to the remote thermostat housing, and connected up the heater etc. I did not connect the cold start choke thing (the 2 little 6mm hose that run from the bottom of the throttle body) as I am in brizvagas, I didn’t really have to, it doesn’t get cold enough. Also after a while they tend to not work properly and remain shut all the time, (and it will run rich on idle even when the engine is warm) I have absolutely no problem with starting it at 5 am in the morning when there is frost on my windows.
NOTE: all the original hoses from the front cut, and the ones in my car and some straight bits (get them off a commodre vn-vy they have really long straight bits with good bends at each end) were used to make this setup, obviously it’s all been renewed, but with a bit of ingenuity you can make them all line up.
Make sure that all vacuum lines are plugged of, there are 3 main ones in particular, there are 2x 6mm (from memory) that connect to the power steering. DO NOT CONNECT THESE TOGTHER, block them off individually or it won’t idle properly, and there is one other on the pipe that runs down from the throttle, to the s/c, another 6mm hose, block off aswell.
The Alternator bracket off the 4AFE bolt on the side of the block the same way as it did in the crappy corolla you stole it off from the wreckers, all you need is to cut/make/weld an adjuster/slider bracket, doesn’t have to be the strongest thing in the world, it just needs to hold a fair bit of tension on the belt, I used some 3mm steel brackets welded together, they were some exhaust brackets I had lying around!!
Once I had the clutch on, the G/box went on, then I put a new timing belt on (always a good idea, although they are a free spinning engine), put my RWD 4AGE timing covers on (they don’t a big hole where the engine mount for the FWD) put my polished and filled down 4AGE cam covers on. And the motor and g/box was set ready to go in.
Once you get it in, and bolted up, bolt on the exhaust and then I simply connected the radiator/heater hoses, I didn’t actually mount the remote thermostat housing to anything, it just sits there with the hoses holding it in place. DO NOT USE THE CLUTCH FAN, with this water pump, it will stuff it up in a while, it’s not made for it, run the thermos, OR use a RWD 4AC/4AGE water pump assembly, you won’t need to worry about the remote thermo housing, and you can keep your clutch fan. I used my normal sprinter radiator, which was nearly perfect, just flushed it properly. I recommend if it doesn’t look good inside, just take it to a radiator place, and get them to flow test it, you might be up for a new core if its shagged, only about $50 or so. You need to ground the thermostat to the chassis just a piece of good wire will do the trick, that triggers the thermo fans. I am only running the auxiliary a/c fan, just to keep some air moving at light and such. I ran it for about a month, with no fan connected! without any overheating problems whatsoever! Weird I know, but they don’t run very hot, even with my front mount there, which would be very comfortable on a 180 or Silvia!
I was lucky also, that I didn’t need to modify my fuel system, as with anyone with a 4AGE in it already. There might be a few things I haven’t covered here, but it’s mostly a guide to fill in the blanks the others leave out. I am very happy with consistent 13.9 ¼ mile times,
From a stock 1.6!
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Location:
brisvegas
Registered:
August 2004
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
February 2005
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Wed, 02 March 2005 06:16
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Thanks for the detailed reply and its helped me very much and ill keep it saved Thanks very much again
- Trent
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Location:
Toronto, Downtown
Registered:
September 2004
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Re: 4AGZE Conversion
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Wed, 02 March 2005 06:20
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| imprsv wrote on Sun, 27 February 2005 23:31 |
My old man is a mechanic so he probably will be either helping me put it in or ill get someone to do it. Was just looking for others previous experiences with putting them in and the prices etc so i sort of know where i am headed! Also would i need a Engineers Certificate putting in a 4AGZE in?
Hopefully someone can help me
- Trent
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i dont know about victoria but in nsw you would definatley need an engineers certificate for this engine swap. I would imagine it would be a similar story if you are replacing a 4ac with a 4agze.
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