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Location:
Perth W.A.
Registered:
April 2004
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Engine Running In*
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Tue, 05 April 2005 15:04
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The story is its a brand new 7M-GTE block with a reconditioned head and 3mm headgasket. Now how long or how many k's will i have to run the engine in?
And what does 'running in' really mean? No boost or no reving above 3000 rpm??
Thanks for your help!!
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Location:
Perth, WA
Registered:
December 2004
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Location:
Rocky Mountains, Canada
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Tue, 05 April 2005 16:13
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| EldarO wrote on Wed, 06 April 2005 01:30 |
Eldar.O.
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Everything ive heard/done is different to what youve said.
Ive been told to never let it sit at idle, esp when running in cams.
Always keep it changing revs at a light load, never sit at one RPM for more than 1min.
As time goes on, keep up the routine, but increase the engine load.
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Location:
Perth, WA
Registered:
December 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Tue, 05 April 2005 16:18
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well, fuck me dead, i apologise, all of my experience is running in motors of smaller capacity.
this was how i was told to do it, it appears i was wrong.
Cheers for letting me know though, i wouldve fucked up me 2TG!
Eldar.O.
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Location:
Perth W.A.
Registered:
April 2004
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Location:
Land of Oz
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Wed, 06 April 2005 03:35
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Hi,
I thought the "running in" was soemthing the older engines required. I remeber people in their EH holdens and other cars with "running in" signs on the boot to let people know why they're not driving or accelerating fast.
However, I beleive newer engines (1970 onwards) don't need a special run-in period. Being new, you just treat it carefully and don't red line the engine or put it under duress for a few thousand kms.
Then again, I may be mistaken. I'm sure, a long time ago, I scanned the net and found some info on this. Also, I think I've got some running-in info for the 18RG (and the 2TG would be similar) from my mechanic when he rebuilt my engine. I'll see if I can find it around -it should be with all my car logbooks and history stuff.
seeyuzz
river
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Toymods Vice President
Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Wed, 06 April 2005 04:05
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Go and take a look at http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.
I'm not saying to take everything he says at face value, but the concepts for run in that he promotes seem sound and based in good logic to me.
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Location:
Rocky Mountains, Canada
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
On your mum!
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Wed, 06 April 2005 11:18
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Without having first looked at the link that Josh has posted (I will do that after I put my foot in my mouth).
Here's how I see it;
1)bearings need no more than a few kms.
2)Rings need load and they take quite a few kms to run in.
3)Cams if you are running new cams and/or you have changed the followers, then they need to be fluctuated for 20min at between 2000 and 3000rpm from the minute that the engine is started and not allowed to idle.
4)I feel that gaskets (head gasket) need some warming and cooling to set them - after re-torquing then it is all O.K.
I like to run an engine for about 20 mins loading it up by varying throttle. Before taking excursions towards the upper RPM (6000). After I have driven the engine for a couple of hundred KM (when I am feeling patient), an oil change, re-torque head, boost it and then drive it like it is stolen.
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Location:
Victoria
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
Lost in the K hole
Registered:
May 2002
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Location:
Adelaide - Race Central
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Wed, 06 April 2005 14:44
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its not a full rebuild so i wouldnt worry tooo much about running in! however, do drive 'normally' for the first 500k's and increasing load past that. 1,000k's will be plenty fine to rev hard. for full rebuild, i agree with rivers way of doing things
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Location:
Perth W.A.
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Wed, 06 April 2005 15:10
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I dont know how to search. When i search i allways get different results to what im looking for.
So basically i run it in few thousand k's take it easy then re torque the head, change the oil. Run it few thousand thousand more then it should be fine?.
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Location:
Adelaide - Race Central
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Thu, 07 April 2005 03:17
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i think that is plenty.
the most important thing for running in is the oil that is used. ensure the use of a good mineral based oil, before the 1st oil change. it helps with the new seals settling in. i would then recommend fully synthetic, good....like motul or mobil 1 (10w-30)
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Location:
townsville NQLD
Registered:
February 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Thu, 07 April 2005 06:38
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| jonchai wrote on Thu, 07 April 2005 13:17 |
i think that is plenty.
the most important thing for running in is the oil that is used. ensure the use of a good mineral based oil, before the 1st oil change. it helps with the new seals settling in. i would then recommend fully synthetic, good....like motul or mobil 1 (10w-30)
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| Quote: |
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
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Location:
Tamworth
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Thu, 07 April 2005 08:30
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its all been said before.
At idle there is insufficient oil-throw off to lubricate the pistons, rings and camshaft lobes when the oil is cold and prolonged idling should therefore be avoided.
In the initial driving period u should accelerate the car several times from 60 to 80 kmph in top gear at full thorttle(automatics in 2nd at lower speed). this will provide sufficient gas loading to build up pressure behind the top rings to ensure gas tight sealing against the cylinder walls.
Prolonged high speeds and low speed lugging should be avoided.
To much of running constant speeds is bad for bedding-in.
A mechanic i know that has built many engines for his own use told me that he once had an engine that he rebuilt, he flogged it from day 1. He said it was the best performing engine he had but it didnt last as long as the others.
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Location:
Adelaide - Race Central
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Thu, 07 April 2005 10:14
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brett_celicacoupe......whats your point??
how much is a lot of mileage? and what are you trying to say? synthetic in no-good? changing to synthetic too soon is no-good?
it is true that you can flog an engine almost straight away! my mechanic does v8 supercar engines and straight after a rebuild, engine dyno it is, for all engines! true again that long idling is no0good. all i'm saying is that, drive the engine normally. dont thrash, dont granny shift around! if the mechanic that rebuilt engine is good and fussy, he would have done the initial break-in for you.
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Location:
Perth W.A.
Registered:
April 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Thu, 07 April 2005 14:54
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On the http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm. link it says to rev it a bit under load while driving for the first few miles to get the piston rings worn evenly against the piston chamber. Any ideas about that?
Its a brand new Block with pistons crank ect. pre built and a reconditioned head with the same cams.
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
July 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Thu, 07 April 2005 16:57
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also DONT use good oil..
use okay oil.. not sewing machine oil.
or the piston rings wont bed in propperly.
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Location:
Tamworth
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Fri, 08 April 2005 08:16
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| 7MSupra wrote on Fri, 08 April 2005 00:54 |
On the http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm. link it says to rev it a bit under load while driving for the first few miles to get the piston rings worn evenly against the piston chamber. Any ideas about that?
Its a brand new Block with pistons crank ect. pre built and a reconditioned head with the same cams.
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Read my post above ur last and there are idea's about it.
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Location:
townsville NQLD
Registered:
February 2004
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Fri, 08 April 2005 08:22
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| jonchai wrote on Thu, 07 April 2005 20:14 |
brett_celicacoupe......whats your point??
how much is a lot of mileage? and what are you trying to say? synthetic in no-good? changing to synthetic too soon is no-good?
it is true that you can flog an engine almost straight away! my mechanic does v8 supercar engines and straight after a rebuild, engine dyno it is, for all engines! true again that long idling is no0good. all i'm saying is that, drive the engine normally. dont thrash, dont granny shift around! if the mechanic that rebuilt engine is good and fussy, he would have done the initial break-in for you.
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| brett_celicacoupe wrote on Thu, 07 April 2005 16:38 |
| Quote: |
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
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that is just goin off the site that ed_ma61 gave
just seems *more* logical what the site says......not being nasty
brett
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Location:
Brisbane, Queensland
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Engine Running In*
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Fri, 08 April 2005 13:42
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The method of running in an engine should be a reflection of how that motor is too perform, also how the motor is built has a large part of it.
True race engines are built with clearances in mind so that you can flogg it from the word go and have a determined life span.
Rings and bores are a whole new arguement....at the end of the day it comes down to metal composition, (in both ring and bore) operation tempuratures, and gap clearance.
I have my own methods of running in my motors and preferred running in oils that I use.....
I will leave you with the advice of, speak to the experts (engine builders, performance shops,) these people to it everyday and have a far varied experiance in this field.
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