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Location:
brisvegas
Registered:
August 2004
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stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 02 April 2005 23:17
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I am wanting to spin a GT28R ball bearing turbo on my little 1.6, the motor is an AE92 Map GZE, it at the moment makes around 220hp @ the fly..still with the s/c..and i really want to keep a fair bit of midrange, and get the top end to screem, thats why i have chosen the 28R because it will apparently hold anywhere up to 18psi to 9000rpm with out a fuss..obviously i'm not going to push it that far, but who knows with a well prepped 4AGTE right? 
regarding getting a few extra cc's to turn the turbo, i was wondering, how could this be done? i've ran a quick search, and found that if you want to stroke it you need the 7A block, crank, rods, and i'm not sure if my ZE forgies will go onto those rods? from what i've heard they are an 18mm gudgion like the early 4A's..
and i'm trying to build a tough motor that will last, and i really can't see the 7A block coping with 1 bar of boost that frequents the race track (drift)..
a mate of mine owns his own machine shop, and offered to make a set of H beams for it..relitivly cheap i might add..so regadless of the crank, i can get made rods to suit..
matty
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Location:
NSW Engadine
Registered:
June 2003
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 02 April 2005 23:24
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If you want to stroke a 4AGE...
You want HKS, they make stroker kits... I wouldn't be going for over 250hp with a 7AFE crankshaft...
HKS have the 7AGE stroker kit and from what I understand it can take high power...
only thing is, its probably well over $2000
If you do it... I wanna hear that engine!
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Location:
NSW, East Coast
Registered:
July 2003
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 02 April 2005 23:46
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Perhaps a little more searching of the bigger tuning companies in Japan to see what there using on their stroker kits,
Cheers
Steve
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
December 2004
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sun, 03 April 2005 00:54
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instead of stroking it to get larger wang , why don't you match up a turbo that will be better and more efficient for the application? as there are numerous models of GT series turbos that will cater for smaller capacity engines. I own a 4agze converted 4agte sprinter. I also went through this stage of sizing and matching up a turbo and after speaking to MTQ(turbo specialist in QLD), Jon patrick(turbonetics distributer for australia) and various guys that deal with garret Japan and USA. The conclusion I have come up with the guys all say the same thing, basically when going about when matching up you have to question what is the ideal power you want to make and what are you trying to achieve? as stroking it seems very unecessary for say if you are going for 200-350rwhp, and the only thing you gain is slightly more drivablility.
I myself have opted for a ball bearing hiflow. This was matched up for a rb25(neo series 2 motor) but I prefer alot more lag and a kick in the gutz mid to high range rpm. Reason I went the rb25 highflow was due to in comparison with other GT series turbos such as GT25(400hp version)/28's(from s15's), 2871, 2510/30, 25/40, and the disco potato GT28RS. Was all these turbos are around the 1800-2300 mark. Even though they indeed are a awesome turbo upgrades for ca/sr/rb20's, this didn't really suit my application as all turbos except for the s15 GT28 could and will pull all the way to redline and achieve the 250-280rwhp as wanted. As I could not really comprehend the extra money to throw at a turbo while I can spend more money on other things such as head and block.
The turbo that is matched is basically a GCG highflow(with smaller exhaust housing) these are rated at 340-380rwhp(fly). I myself did not buy a GCG one as they want $1950 for a highflow steel wheel turbo. I got mine highflowed from MTQ in qld for $920 with 1 year warranty. My turbo specs are a series 2 nissan skyline Rb25 turbo from a neo motor(I found one shagged and payed $50 for it) I bought a smaller exhaust housing from a rb20 turbo(16v)45mm inducer version for $20. The rear housing(from a rb20 turbo)is a .22 compared to the larger .3something from a series 2 skyline turbo that will be slightly more laggier. The exhaust wheel and shaft are steel and am running a larger steel compressor(52mm inducer)compared to the neo 49mm(nylon wheel) stock rb25 series 2 comp wheel(3mm difference). As this will have more legs top end. So the total cost of this turbo has set me back slightly under $1000 for a rebuilt high flow steel wheeled turbo with warranty. I also payed $60 for the turbo comp cover to be machined down of all nissan and garret castings on the cover and got it fully polished which looks a treat .
Ok verdict for turbo bolt on, basically after bolting on the turbo the car felt alot more aggressive and slightly more responsive considered to the original rb20 turbo that was fitted. The turbo would come in at about 3250 and pull all the way to redline, while hard shifting through gears and the car would axle tramp and spin the wheels at 100k's(never did that with the original turbo). I have found this turbo to be a very nice upgrade for the 1.6ltr and could highly recommend it to anyone. I have yet to dyno it as the motor and gear has been pulled out of the car to be ready for paint but would definately estimate the power to be slightly over 250rwhp on a light road tune. Will have the car back together in the next month(fingers crossed) and will get a full tune on higher boost to see what I can get(dyno sheets will be shown of course).
Hope this helps
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Toymods Vice President
Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sun, 03 April 2005 10:47
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You could stroke your engine an extra 2mm by getting the crank offest ground and then running bigport con-rods.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 09 April 2005 02:06
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I've heard the only difference between 7a fe and 4age bottom ends is the rods and crank. Surely these can be shot peened for extra strength. I'm contemplating doing this myself at the moment. Does anyone know if all the accessories will bolt in the same place on the 7a? Like that big ass bracket holding the p/s pump, a/c pump and alt?
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2004
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 09 April 2005 07:38
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My mate had a 20v and he stroked it. It was a while ago but I think it worked out to be like around 2L. Anyways he used trd parts and went the whole way. The day after he got it on the road a piston went straight through his block.
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I Supported Toymods
Location:
Sydney
Registered:
December 2002
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 09 April 2005 08:05
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If you increased your compression ratio your turbo will spool faster (and your car will go harder).
The pimpmobile had an RB25 turbo on the 4AGE 100kW and that thing spooled up almost as quickly and sharply as Norbies 2JZGTE MA61!
Remember that if you change the compression ratio you will need to retune your ECU or fuel adjuster.
If you don't have an aftermarket programmable ECU or fuel adjuster then you will need to procure one.
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Location:
sydney
Registered:
March 2005
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 09 April 2005 10:35
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thats kinda death though. because as u run higher boost to take advantage of the larger turbo the compression will be dangerious maybe causing detonation.
| Toobs wrote on Sat, 09 April 2005 18:05 |
If you increased your compression ratio your turbo will spool faster (and your car will go harder).
The pimpmobile had an RB25 turbo on the 4AGE 100kW and that thing spooled up almost as quickly and sharply as Norbies 2JZGTE MA61!
Remember that if you change the compression ratio you will need to retune your ECU or fuel adjuster.
If you don't have an aftermarket programmable ECU or fuel adjuster then you will need to procure one.
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Location:
Bundaberg, Qld.
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 09 April 2005 12:46
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thats when tuning comes into it. i agree with Toobs. 
when ever my friend gives me the spare set of 83mm ca18det pistons (i hope he hasnt forgotten  ) i will use them in my old 4agte rebuild. takes it out to just under 1.7ltr i think.
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Location:
qld
Registered:
December 2003
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Sat, 09 April 2005 23:44
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from what ive read from anyone who actually seems like they know what theyre talking about/done it. there's nothing wrong with the 7a crank. the rods yes, but some people do get away with them in an na set up. few things to note. the 7a only uses 6 bolts to attach the flywheel to the crank, but then so does an RB26.. (youll need a differant flywheel, but theres is no real strnegth issue) also the 7a sump will not clear the cross member with the standard mounts.
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Location:
Somewhere on a dirt bowl ...
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Mon, 11 April 2005 15:29
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| Joshstix wrote on Sun, 03 April 2005 20:47 |
You could stroke your engine an extra 2mm by getting the crank offest ground and then running bigport con-rods.
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You'll also find it to be a good idea to grind the skirt of the block so that the conrods have safe clearance. As well as the bottom of the bores to.
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Location:
Somewhere on a dirt bowl ...
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: stroke 4AGTE
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Mon, 11 April 2005 15:44
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| 79rollaboy wrote on Sun, 03 April 2005 09:24 |
If you want to stroke a 4AGE...
You want HKS, they make stroker kits... I wouldn't be going for over 250hp with a 7AFE crankshaft...
HKS have the 7AGE stroker kit and from what I understand it can take high power...
only thing is, its probably well over $2000
If you do it... I wanna hear that engine!
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The 7age is the "g" head fitted to the 7a block, nothing else.
The HKS strker kit is the 5age which strokes (and with a 0.5mm overbore) the motor to almost 1700cc.
Last time i saw the price a kit was up around the 3500 US dollar mark. But the kit was a full rebuild kit, forged crank and forged pistons (you had a pick of compression ratios - 9:1 to 12:1)
And I believe that HKS stopped making the kit about 5 years back.
You'll find it snit loads easier to stroke a 2tg.
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