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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2005
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Location:
Land of Oz
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 Checklist
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Sun, 22 May 2005 11:11
 
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Hi,
Congrats on your purchase.
Check the radiator fluid. It should be a nice red or green colour, depending upon the corrosion inhibitor. If it's murky, then flush out the raditor and add some clean water and get the Toyota corrosion inhibitor - it's one of the best around.
Check around the engine for oil stains or patches that may denote a leaky gasket. If you see some, then clean it up and check it again in a few days to see if it's an old leak (or spilt oil). If the oil stains come back then post again on where it is leaking and how much is leaking.
Check the engine oil. It should be a nice reddish-brown colour and should not smell burnt. If the oil is murky and milky then you may have an issue with water getting into your oil. Post back if this is the case.
Assuming the oil appears okay it may be best to drain out the oil, put on a new oil filter (definitely go the Toyota filter - they are without doubt the best oil filter for the Toyota engines). Refill the engine with oil - and don't over fill it.
Also check the sump plug for any oil leaks.
Check around your brake (and clutch, if it's a manual) resovoirs to see that there is no leaks and the fluid levels are correct and the fluid is not dull or milky. When brake (and clutch) fluid leaks it bubbles the paint. So, a lot of bubbled/peeled paint around the brake/clutch resovoirs could inidicate a leak - or maybe an old leak that has been repaired. Clean around these resovoirs, but do not use that clotch on any paint - chuck it when you're done and check in a few days time.
Check and clean the battery posts and the clamps. Once clean and reconnected, cover them with a small amount of petroleum jelly to keep them clean and to minimise corrosion or that white powdery stuff that they sometimes get.
Check for craks in the welds or rust spots in the engines bay. Alaso check the engine mounts tosee if they are not loose or cracked.
Remove the air cleaner elements and replace if dirty or rejuvinate them by blowing them over with compressed air.
Check in the holes where the spark plug leads are to see no oil pooling around them. Check the spark leads for cracks and to see that they attach strongly to the dizzy and the plugs. Check the dizzy cap for any cracks. Remove the dizzy and check the points. The points should be clean and have no white powder on them nor should they be pitted with burn marks. Same with the little metal things (forget the technical name) inside the dizzy cap. Also check the rotor inside the dizzy - again no white powdery stuff or pits and burns.
If you want to get adventurous you can unscrew the spark plugs and give them a visual insepction - but if the engien seems to be running fine I wouldn't do that just yet.
Run the car for a few weeks and get used to the sound of the engine, gearbox etc so you can get familair with your new baby. If something doesn't feel or sound right then repost with more detailed questions.
Have fun.
seeyuzz
river
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Location:
Land of Oz
Registered:
June 2004
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Re: TA22 Checklist
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Sun, 22 May 2005 11:15
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Hi,
Ohh, yeah... you can run ULP without a problem in your engine. Your engine is indeed an alloy head and drinks ULP without a problem.
I'm not sure if using PULP will get you anymore performance with this engine, but you can at least try it. If you think it performs better with PULP, then use it - if not, then save some money and use regular ULP. I'm sure that other 2T owners in these forums can offer some advice and their experience on this one.
seeyuzz
river
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2005
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Re: TA22 Checklist
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Sun, 22 May 2005 12:08
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Hi, thanks for your detailed response.
Everything's good that you mentioned, waiting to see if new oil blotches appear. On filling up with ULP for the first time, i should try and do it as close to empty as possibe? (While still using LRP).
One thing i did notice today when driving from albury to melbourne was that the speed was fairly off. I think this is because the rims are larger than stock, a mechanic can recalibrate this easliy or could i be able too?
Cheers
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Location:
The Hills District
Registered:
November 2003
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Re: TA22 Checklist
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Mon, 23 May 2005 12:53
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howdy.
just a few things not mentioned above that i feel you could benefit from checking:
1. check the belts on the motor and their tension. the belts should be free from cracks and other defects from wear and should be quite tensioned. only a small amount of play like they should twist a little.
2. all coolant/radiator hoses. check once again for cracks and age. can be done by squeezing them. they should be quite firm and not too soft. if theyre soft or look old they might be worth replacing.
3. radiator and thermostat. if your radiator is quite old and hasnt had a good life then it will prob be deteriorating so when u flush the system for a change have a look inside and see its condition. depending how stable the temp on the car is the thermostat could also be worth looking at and maybe replacing. if ur radiator is dead then you can get them re-cored by any radiator shop for less than 200 and it will also stop any more junk from the radiator getting into the engine and possibly clogging up your coolant galleries.
4. you could also get the alternator and starter motors tested by an auto electrician to see how they are. once again if busted get them rebuilt. i think around 150 each.
depending how you feel with some of these items you may not bother and just prefer to have things break and then replace them, however by ensuring everything is hunky dorey you should be able to save yourself the trouble of breaking down and possible furthur expenses etc.
anyhow i hope this info has been of some use and congrats on your purchase and. I hope that it serves you well.
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2005
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Location:
The Hills District
Registered:
November 2003
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TA22 Checklist
