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matt_84
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1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 02:37 Go to next message
How long does the ECU need to register a fault? I am getting no fault codes after a hundred meter drive or so, even with one of the knock sensors deliberately unplugged.

I'm getting a continuously flashing signal which i'm led to believe means everything is A-OK, which it isn't. Runs like a pig, and has no go whatsoever. So i'm wondering why even a deliberatiely induced fault will not register?

Cheers, Matt
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ra23celica
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 03:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Some fault codes, like the knock sensor, need a two event occurrence before they will trip, something like a longer drive and a few times over 3500 rpm should get that puppy to flash for you.

Meaning that its not your knock sensors causing whatever problem you have at the moment.....
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 03:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
For some sensors (like knock and a few others) a few conditions have to be met

It has to be over 2500rpm and 30% load, sustained for X amount of seconds (or something similar)



Make sure all 6 injectors are firing.
Unplug one spark plug lead at a time to see if any cyl isnt working.
Make sure leads are on correct order.


Constant Flash is a-ok
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 03:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Damn you Mitch.
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justcallmefrank
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 03:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Simplest way to check is to unplug the water temp sensor. Mine threw a code straight away.
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ra23celica
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 03:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
CrUZsida wrote on Wed, 01 June 2005 11:31

Damn you Mitch.


That happened a long long time ago......

Oh for 60 seconds, by the Play School clock.....
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 03:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Have checked the following:

All injectors are clicking
Leads are in correct order

I did as you said with pulling the plugs to see if any cylinder wasn't working, and given the roughness of the idle at the moment, it was a little hard to tell, but I think cyl 3 wasn't making a difference pulled or plugged in.

I'll get some new plugs today, anyone have any hints on the leads?

Cheers, Matt
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 03:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Cheers Frank, pulling the water temp sensor threw code 22 straight away. Must be something i'm missing, or an intermittent fault or something.

Cheers, Matt
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ra23celica
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 04:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
My injectors were leaking, badly, car ran like dog. Have you pulled each of the plugs out and looked at them to see if they are: white - lean running, rusty brown colour - about normal, sooty carbon fouled evil nasty eyes of satan black - uber rich ???
Your injectors could be leaking off cycle - and a good clean and test will help fix that.
Have you got the smell of petrol in your exhaust as well ?
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 05:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I bought some injectors that had not long before being pulled out and sold, been cleaned and rekitted, and they seems to all be clicking fine. Also, it looks like i'm running lean; I took the car out of the driveway, and when it started spluttering under load, I turned the key off. I then checked the plugs.

All six of my plugs look somewhat like this;

http://members.optusnet.com.au/bamdick/plug.JPG

I'll dummy something up to check the fuel pressure later, anyone see any problems with an old oil pressure sensor being used to measure fuel pressure?

Cheers, Matt
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ra23celica
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 06:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Is it me, or does that plug look like its seen a lot more fuel than it should have ?
Do you smell petrol in the zorst fumes ?
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Wed, 01 June 2005 06:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
No petrol smell to speak of, just normal exhausty kind of smell. Though I didn't get down and take a big whiff of it Smile

I'd thought the plug looked lean, because of the white electrode, its some fancy apexi plug that came with the engine, the black soot may be from how the engine was running prior to being ripped out and shipped to Aus.

Cheers, Matt
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Thu, 02 June 2005 06:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
OK, I have an airleak in the system somewhere. I'm not even getting any positive pressure under load, it barely idles, and taking the oil cap off, it will stall.

Anyone know what vacuum the engine should be reading at idle? I'm getting around 15in/hg.

I can hear the turbo's spooling, i've checked the wastegates aren't seized, but still, it will not get any positive pressure. I'm guessing an airleak would have to be pretty bad to allow this, but I just can't see/hear anything.

Any ideas? Anyone?


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CrUZsida
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Thu, 02 June 2005 06:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Go around with a hose in one ear, and put it on various parts
You'll hear the leak.
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Thu, 02 June 2005 06:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
OK, i'll try that. Cheers

Also, for those interested, I was worried it may be the headgasket, but that looks all clear now, compression test, warm engine, done dry turned up the following;

1 - 165
2 - 160
3 - 160
4 - 160
5 - 160
6 - 160

Dunno what toyota recommends the acceptable range is, but the consistency looks good to me.

Now air-leak-a-hunting I go.
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VeeP
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Thu, 02 June 2005 14:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message


Sorry and dont mean to hijack ur thread here - but u talk of wastegate actuators not being siezed? How did u check that? Are you supposed to be able to manually move that little rod thats attached to the exhaust housing of the turbo? I tried pushing on mine but they wouldnt budge. . .. ?


Have you cleaned your intake pipework? I cleaned mine a few days back (oil and dust deposits everywhere) and it idled much better. .
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justcallmefrank
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Thu, 02 June 2005 23:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
VeeP wrote on Thu, 02 June 2005 22:22



Sorry and dont mean to hijack ur thread here - but u talk of wastegate actuators not being siezed? How did u check that? Are you supposed to be able to manually move that little rod thats attached to the exhaust housing of the turbo? I tried pushing on mine but they wouldnt budge. . .. ?


On mine, I hooked up an air compressor to the wastegate actuator lines and gave em a pump...or ten. Not too much more than the setting to make them move.
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EvilJack
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 00:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
when i put mine together the cam covers werent completely sealed and caused intermitant idle, pulled them off applied some more goo made sure they were down nice and firm and wallah...it purred
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 07:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Grrr...Don't you hate it when you find something simple that seemingly would fix the problem, fix it, then nothing...

I was spraying little squirts of butane around where leaks could be, found the culprit near on the front turbo intake, lower bolt wasn't done up, closer inspection showed I could actually see light through the gap between the pipe and the turbo. Bolted it up tight.

Now it won't idle at all.

Mad

I've tried adjusting the idle screw, won't run with it fully up, fully down, or where it is supposed to be (12mm - 13mm from top of casting).

[Updated on: Fri, 03 June 2005 07:23]

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CrUZsida
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 07:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Couple of turns from the bottom.

Are you sure your ISCV is working?
Does it click when you turn the motor off?
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 07:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
My window of opportunity for the day has ended (no exhaust), but ill have another look at the iscv tomorrow. I checked earlier, and it's getting 12v to the right pins, but I haven't checked for the clicking. Is there any way of checking its actual operation off the engine? I've pulled it apart and cleaned it, it looks schmick.

I was basing my 12-13mm on this article http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf
but I couldn't see the specific casting number on my AFM, so i just tried around that measurement. Nontheless, it wasn't even close.

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ra23celica
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 08:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Adjusting your AFM screw off the number stamped on its alloy casting is a last ditch effort if you really have tried everything else on the car. Adjusting it when they is no number stamped on it is asking for trouble.
I know, I did this, made it run super rich by mistake, and melted the cat convertor completedly, nearly torching the car.
The only way you can get it back to near factory spec is with an exhaust sniffer up its bum.
Anyway, this will not be your problem now, keep on searching....
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 08:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_106.gif


http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_107.gif
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 08:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ra23celica wrote on Fri, 03 June 2005 16:05

Adjusting your AFM screw off the number stamped on its alloy casting is a last ditch effort if you really have tried everything else on the car. Adjusting it when they is no number stamped on it is asking for trouble.
I know, I did this, made it run super rich by mistake, and melted the cat convertor completedly, nearly torching the car.
The only way you can get it back to near factory spec is with an exhaust sniffer up its bum.
Anyway, this will not be your problem now, keep on searching....

He said IDLE screw.

EDIT: and your playing with AFM screw had nothing to do with the CAT dying.
There is no way it let through that much extra fuel for that to happen.
Unless you made it completely lean.

[Updated on: Fri, 03 June 2005 08:09]

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people100
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 08:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
have u sorted out the problem out yet. i wanna have a look at it all and see how hard it is.
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matt_84
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Fri, 03 June 2005 09:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
People100, Nah haven't sorted it yet, but it hasn't been too hard to do so far, just the usual stuff, wiring, little bits of welding etc.

Cruzsida, thanks for the diagrams, my iscv is by all accounts fine, 21 ohms at all the checking points, and it moves in and out fine.

I'll listen for the clicking after engine is stopped tomorrow. I dare say i'm on thin ice with the elderly couple a few houses up.
Although from memory I think that it does, as there are a few noises that go on after I've killed the engine that aren't the relays.

Cheers for all the help people, keep throwing ideas up if you've got them. I'm just about at my wits-end.
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ra23celica
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Sat, 04 June 2005 01:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
CrUZsida wrote on Fri, 03 June 2005 16:07

He said IDLE screw.

EDIT: and your playing with AFM screw had nothing to do with the CAT dying.
There is no way it let through that much extra fuel for that to happen.
Unless you made it completely lean.


CrUZsida,

I know he said IDLE screw. In Matt's second paragraph way above he mentions the AFM and an Autoshop101 reference that I did not check, but *assumed* it was for AFM idle air bypass screw adjustment. If its not its my bad.

My personal experience which I related above, only is, that my stupid adjustment of the AFM (and nothing else) made the mixture so rich (judging by the smell from the exhaust) that a 5 minute drive to the servo had my car with an orange hot glowing exhaust from the exact centre of the car conv. and continuing for another 1.5 metres down the exhaust towards the exit. The rest of the system, fore and aft of this orange hot section, was virtually stone cold to the touch and visually black, and the exhaust manifold, which should have been hottest barely raised a sweat.

I removed the cat later and found the substrate inside had melted into a big lump. I know these things need heat to work and they produce heat as a by-product of the chemical reaction that happens inside, and I know that fuel in these things kills them as when they heat up the fuel burns.

Don't doubt what you are saying, just chiming in with my own experience from my own stuff-ups so that others don't doi the same. Moral of the story - don't eff with the AFM screw - ever, the factory setting is best.
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Sat, 04 June 2005 02:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Sorry Mitch, I missed that bit he wrote about the AFM

And with the richness, I honestly can't see the AFM screw making it THAT rich.
Maybe a combination of your leaking injector and the AFM screw caused it.

But I have had one coil drop out, so only 4 of my plugs were getting spark. This left 50% of the fuel unburnt, which then proceeded to burn in the exhaust system.
This has happened on two separate occasions, both times the cats were glowing red hot like yours.
But I highly doubt they are damaged.
They can handle about 600degC, and a glowing exhaust won't be close to that.
Was yours brand new, or old?

[Updated on: Sat, 04 June 2005 02:13]

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ra23celica
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Re: 1ggte fault code problem Sun, 05 June 2005 23:34 Go to previous message
No problem mate.

And yes, this happened before I fixed the injectors leaking problem, so it looks like a combination of both those factors. It was something stupid / desperate I tried in order to fix the richness problem.

It was a S/H Cat, from a 12 month old BA Falcon, and it was toast inside after my efforts, but I did not see it before it was fitted.

Cheers,
Mitch.
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