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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 04:53
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Anyone changed a 1g bottom end bearing before?
How hard is it?
How should one go about doing it?
How hard is it to find replacement bearings?
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Location: sunny coast, qld
Registered: October 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 05:24
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to change 1 or all of them?
If you only want to change 1, couldn't you just drop the sump, unto bolts, fit new bearing and bolts?
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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 05:30
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that's the plan, but..
how do I do that?
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Location: sunny coast, qld
Registered: October 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 05:38
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I am talking 1j here because I haven't worked on 1g but I assume it would be similar.
Depending on xmember and sump position, you may be able to undo all bolts on sump. Pry that off but don't bend it. Then you can touch 2 or 3 of the big ends and see if there is any movement.
Then you need a socket (1j has weird bolts but normal socket works) and breaker bar. Get them off and have a look for any marks on the inside and on the crank.
Then order a new one (don't know where, Penrith toyota?) and new bolts and whack them back in with a torque wrench. The torque settings have been posted before for 1g's.
Hope that helps
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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 05:42
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I should be doing it with the engine out of the car, so the bolts should be easier to get to.
How do you go about replacing all of them without taking the crankout?
can I just..
Fuck it,
I might as well rebuild the whole fucking motor at this point.
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Location: sunny coast, qld
Registered: October 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 06:09
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Yeah, that is what I would be thinking if you are pulling it out anyway. Or alternatively taking the gamble and drop another engine in there and use your current one for spares.
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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 06:55
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Done the old 'buy a new one, scrap the old one' already once....
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On Probation
Location: nsw
Registered: March 2004
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 07:37
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If your only doing the big ends its pretty easy with the engine out if tis an old engine your crank might be oval and not worth doing anyways ?
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Location: Brisbane
Registered: October 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Tue, 21 June 2005 09:19
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firstly, is it bige ends {conrod} or mains
if its a single big end, thats the easiest, take the plugs out, spin the motor till the piston is at BDC, undo the bolts most of the way, loosen the cap and then hit the rod off the crank, since the bolts are still slightly done up, it wont get damaged.
remove the cap, check for scoring/scratches/burns on the crank journal, if its just the bearing surface getting fucked out, then dont worry about it, clean the journal, replace the bearing, and torque it all up
where is the oil pump on a 1G anyway, can someone take a pic of the crank snout without the timing gear on please
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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 01:04
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Yeah, I'm gonna only do the big end bearings now
It looks like it's only the rod bearing ends, not the main bearings
as the noise is HIGHLY evident at low low RPM but goes away fairly quickly.
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I supported Toymods
Location: melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered: June 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 02:02
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there is a support brace you can use for your motor - my mate has one - its basically a bar with a stand at either end which sits on the strut towers.
there is a chain which you attach to your engine lifting hooks and then tension it up - to support the motor. from there you can undo the mounts and then drop the K frame and remove the sump and all that good sort of stuff.
if its only big ends then this could be done with not much fuss.
if you're doing mains then take the whole thing out - you'll have to drop the gearbox to remove the rear main seal as remember the crank goes thru that and thats bolted to the back of the block - then there is the oil pump that the front of the crank goes thru - so yeah - easier to take the whole shebang out and replace it with another - which - given the price of 1G's it might be a cheaper and FAR less stressful alternative?
my 2c anyway
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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 03:18
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Yes, but I've already replaced 1 1g. I'm not going to keep replacing the fucking things.
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I supported Toymods
Location: melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered: June 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 06:08
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already?
why not just build 1 good one then dude? or at least get diagnosed why you're hammering them out - i havent really heard of issues with 1G's and bearing failure...
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Location: sunny coast, qld
Registered: October 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 06:18
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I also know of a guy whose big end went on a stock turbo 1g running 17psi.
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I supported Toymods
Location: Perth
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 06:21
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The issues with 1G's blowing bearings aren't from any inherrent weakness, a lot of it is just age and particularly in the case of import engines, they've been lying around for ages, often years. I'm with Grega, just rebuild one fresh and be done with it
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I supported Toymods
Location: melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered: June 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 06:52
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strad - why do you think its a big end bearing anyhoo?
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Location: Brisbane
Registered: October 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 07:04
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big end noises get louder as u rev, and cant necessarily be heard at idle
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I supported Toymods
Location: melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered: June 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 07:20
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which is the opposite to strads problem. hence why i asked.
as mr dohc suggests - getting louder as RPM increases fair enough but going away after RPM increases might not be big end.
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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Wed, 22 June 2005 23:58
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I had my girlfriends dad listen to it last night, he's a mechanic from way back and he said it sounded like a big end bearing.
And I think it is,
Because
It ran low on oil. Hence I think it's a big end bearing, and it's probably my own fault, nothing to do with the motor. Which is a pain, because it's not like I can say there's any inherent weakness.
I may just buy another engine, depending on what it costs to rebuild.
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Location: Madrid - Spain
Registered: August 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Sun, 26 June 2005 22:04
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If it is just the big ends, it's an easy job. Be warned though, there are a couple of different sizes depending on what year model the engine is. Measure the pin size on the crank. if it is 44.00mm then it is probably a pre 88 engine if it is smaller then it is a post 88 engine. (yep they got smaller)
Just sit the front up on stands, Support the engine with a crane or block of wood across the strut towers and a chain. Then drop the crossmember and pull off the bearing caps.
The hardest part is getting new bearings. Toyota at Castle Hill (Sydney) can get them at about $44 a pair. Lander Toyota a little cheaper but they stuffed me around with the parts. Look for your local toyota import specialists and see what you can get. As far as I know there isn't anything else that will fit off the shelf.
Oh and expect a few weeks delivery time.
If the crank measures round and is not too beaten up then just chuck in some new bearings. If it is looking like the crank is damaged then I would chuck in another engine.
By the sounds of things, it might be a good time to consider some extra sump capacity while it's off.
Best of luck.
Anthony
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Location: Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered: May 2002
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Re: Changing 1g bottom end bearing
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Mon, 27 June 2005 00:42
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Ah, well thanks for the support guys, but it turns out,
The fly wheel bolts were coming un done, and hence causing all sorts of havoc at the back of the motor.
that said, I got away with it pretty much, with all the bolts only finger tight, and one of them 3/4 of the way out, but no damage to the back of the crank... Phew...
Checked the crank and I can't see any obvious signs of damage, so all's good..
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