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Fenris
Occasional Poster


Location:
Perth West Aus
Registered:
November 2004
RA40 Needs Help Fri, 19 August 2005 01:25 Go to next message
Don't they all Confused

I have grown attached to my leaking, paint flaking, full of rust fuel guzzling 81 RA40 and some CONSTRUCTIVE advice would really be appreciated.
The car runs like shit mostly, pretty much since I threw the air injection pump and ancillary bollocks away. It feels like it is running on 2 cylinders some times, is a bitch when its cold and only seems to respond to a complete flogging when it is hot. There is a petrol smell from the exhaust at idle.
I checked the plugs and the two middle ones were a bit black and kruddy while the 2 outer ones were fairly clean looking.

I wish I was a starving student because I had more money back then and did some engine rebuilds and mods but since the mortgage came along I don't have 2 cents to rub together.
Now for the requests for advice. The engine seems like it wants to run well and I believe all the problems are carburettor associated but there is no point putting another 18RC carby on because that didn't help. I am not looking for more performance from the engine but I had a look for an escort or cortina carby to attach and couldn't find one. Are there any other carbs that would bolt straight on? I think an old 78 Mazda 1800 carb might fit or maybe an old Sigma solex (I know) but I don't care about performance just that the thing runs.
Failing all that I do not want to put another 18RC in because it will waste a weekend of my life to install the boat anchor. There are not enough RG's around Perth and I don't have a few K to spend on the old bomb and I don't want to rebuild an RG.
Was the 21RC as much of a boat anchor as the 18RC? Will a 22r fit. I can't be bothered fitting EFI loom and all that stuff.
Is there any other engine & box combo that I can fit with a serious minimum of modification, smaller engine is OK.
Please nobody say 1G, I just want a few more years out of the old thing before it falls apart and it would be nice to throw the rattly boat anchor for something that worked but I am a tight bastard who has to eat rice and lentles to save $$ hell the dog eats better than I do.
It would be nice to get more than 350-400K per 50 odd liter tank.
Constructive criticism will be gladly acccepted however some mocking will be tolerated due to the sad sad nature of this post.
And I don't want to drive it to the tip just yet Razz
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Maurice c
Regular


Location:
Canberra
Registered:
February 2004
Re: RA40 Needs Help Fri, 19 August 2005 02:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I've had a long and fruitless relationship with my 18r-c, i just spent around 470 on it getting new timing gear and recoing the head. Guess what i didnt get a bloody kw more out of it I reckon. It doesnt burn as much oil adn it doesnt rattle but it still guzzles petrol like theres no tomorrow. I needed the car as transport so it had to be spent. I reckon that you must have gotten something wrong with the air pump removal. I removed mine and its not been a problem. I can take a picture and send it to you if you want or you can send me a pic of your intake manifold and i'll compare it and see what the problem is.
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thechuckster
Forums Junkie


Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
 
Re: RA40 Needs Help Fri, 19 August 2005 07:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
the old 18RC in my original RA23 was a pig like this. it does sound like the choke isn't working properly and the lack of grunt up top suggests the secondary venturi isn't delivering any fuel.

a pre-emissions carbi might help out - perhaps a webber from a 2 litre Ford Cortina (TC/TD) or fom some kind isuzu engine?

or simply grab another carbi from an early 18R (corona? celica?) and rebuild it before installing. Also check that the vacuum advance on the dizzi is still working and/or not leaking air. Also remove any auto-choke and manualise it.

personally, i'd chuck the engine and find a 21RE and go efi - same gutlessness but with less fuel use.

the alternative is to do what i did to mine - see sig (which is probably out of your budget price range)

cheers,
charles
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Maurice c
Regular


Location:
Canberra
Registered:
February 2004
Re: RA40 Needs Help Fri, 19 August 2005 08:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
The chuckster strikes again.

The old saying applies "You can't polish a turd". When you have a 18r runnign good its reliable but not inspiring even at its best and still guzzles juice. I think that Toyota thought that fuel prices werent going to rise for 30 years when they built this engine. Chuckster will a 22re sit straight into your 18 r bay? Havent seen too many 21r's around.
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thechuckster
Forums Junkie


Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
February 2003
 
Re: RA40 Needs Help Fri, 19 August 2005 08:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Maurice c wrote on Fri, 19 August 2005 18:14

Chuckster will a 22re sit straight into your 18 r bay? Havent seen too many 21r's around.

to be honest i don't know...

needs to be a mid sump to fit between the crossmember and steering control rod.

maybe there's a few 21R owners here?
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Allan
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
   
Re: RA40 Needs Help Fri, 19 August 2005 09:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
pre-emmisions carby and intake manifold, extractors and electronic ignition make a significant difference
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tricky
Regular


Location:
Canberra
Registered:
July 2005
Re: RA40 Needs Help Fri, 19 August 2005 12:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Don't give up hope yet! Taking off the emissions control may have caused various vacuum leaks. A bitch these are to find!! The best way to find a vacuum leak is to spray carby cleaner (Carefully) around the intake components. If there is a leaky gasket on your carb, an unplugged nipple(hehe.. nipple), a cracked vacuum hose etc, it will suck in the cleaner, and the engine revs will rise. Also as said before by the chuckster checking vac. advance, the correct actuation of your secondaries and choke and adjust your mixtures is a damn good plan. Also, check your compression.

It may be worth taking your car to someone who is still aware of the existence of carbs. While it is more expensive than doing it yourself, they can test the compression and tell you what condition your rings/head are in, and they can give you a damn good tune.
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Fenris
Occasional Poster


Location:
Perth West Aus
Registered:
November 2004
Re: RA40 Needs Help Tue, 30 August 2005 06:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Well I bought an adapter and fitted a weber off a 2L cortina and immediately the car was running better, but not great. Cold te car is still a pig but now it at least idles kind of when it is hot. There is still the chuff chuff constantly like the engine is missing and I am thinking it may be ignition related.
I was in a rush to pick my GF up from the airport I didn't even open the weber up for a clean, I just chucked it in dry and after a few cranks away it went. I am suprised the thing even started.
I do have a leak on the diaphragm in the dizzi which I am sure is one of the reasons the car is still running rough.
I am also guessing it would be a good idea to check the exhaust valve clearances, if one was too tight it might contribute to this problem.
As for the distributor, is there an electronic one that would fit straight in?
Anyway there is still more to be done before this runs properly but I don't want to polish the old turd too much.
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Maurice c
Regular


Location:
Canberra
Registered:
February 2004
Re: RA40 Needs Help Tue, 30 August 2005 15:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Show me an 18r with a working vacumn advance and i'll be amazed. Their nearly all shagged, this is used to advance the ignition so it doesnt affect tickover. I used a Jaycar hei on my car, Using the points as a switch and I reckon that its worthwhile. I think that its about 60 bucks as well so not too dear.
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Fenris
Occasional Poster


Location:
Perth West Aus
Registered:
November 2004
Re: RA40 Needs Help Wed, 31 August 2005 00:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I did a quick check on the exhaust valve clearances and as it turns out the two middle ones were too tight and had no clearance. That might explain why the two middle plugs were slightly fouled compared to the outer ones.
I performed a 'thats about right' adjustment and the engine is finally idling smoothly without bouncing around and rocking the car. I just need to get a set of guages that aren't rusty and properly adjust all the valves.
This has inspired me to keep the car licensed and not drive it to the tip, and maybe even fix a few other things as well.
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Azura_Beowulf
Occasional Poster


Registered:
August 2005
Re: RA40 Needs Help Wed, 31 August 2005 05:29 Go to previous message
I'm just new here but I also own an RA40 mine's a coupe, If you need anything in particular for urs, there's a wreaker that has a RA40 Coupe and a RA40 Liftback both gettin scrapped and if i remember rightly then they both had their original gauge clusters, but i don't know if they work. I coule pop around there next wednesday (i only get one day a week off work...) and grab it and post it to ya...

For all you other RA40 owners in QLD the wreakersthey are at is ABC at rocklea. I picked up 2 door trims, door opener part, armrest, complete set of badges(including the ones on the vert bar behind the front windows) and a few other bits for $25.

I think i scored... the trims are in near perfect condition... oh and no one get any ideas about gettin the gearbox outta the liftback... i want it Razz

Cheers guys
Azzy
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