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TA-022
Forums Junkie


I Supported Toymods

Location:
Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered:
March 2004
18RGU -> 18RGTEU Thu, 08 September 2005 02:55 Go to next message
Hey all.

After toying with the differnent ideas (1ggte / 3sgte) Ive gone all nostalgic and have decided to go the 18RGU.

Had a search and all that and have found various bits of info but I'm looking to consolidate some tech from yall and possibly generate a tech arcticle at the end of the build cycle.

So....

I have a 18rgu twin solex side drought atm.

I'm aiming for 120-150rwkw when turbo'd. What hardware in the RA28 aren't going to hold up to this? ie diff gbox.

Also what sort of block preperation should I be looking at for this sort of build? I want it to be reliable but for instance if i dont need forgies I dont want get them just "in case".

Thanks all!

Nathan



teh list!

Equipment I'll need to go efi:

ECU (Prob use MicroTech)
Inlet manifold
Injectors
Wiring
Fuel Pres. Reg
Fuel Pump
Lift Pump
Surge tank
Fuel Rail
Throttle Body
EFI fuel lines
Thermo Housing
Electronic Ignition

Then to go Turbo:

Exhaust Manifold
Turbo
Turbo Oil-Water Lines
Intercooler
IC Piping
BOV
Ex.Gate (dependant on turbo)
Dump Pipe
Exhaust system
Head Studs
Rod Bots
**Metal Headgasket
**Block O-ringing


Eventual Needed Parts (Once they go BANG!)

w55/w58 with 21rc bellhousing.
g/f series diff

Anything I should add to these parts list or any recomended brands please let me know.

[Updated on: Sun, 11 September 2005 23:41]

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Norbie
Forums Junkie


Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Thu, 08 September 2005 03:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Yay another turbo 18R-G!

My advice:
- forgies are a must
- ARP rod bolts are a must, ARP head studs would be wise also
- throw the dizzy away, convert to fully electronic crank-fired ignition
- W50 transmission will survive but a W58 is a good idea
- get a good clutch!
- diff will be toasted quickly, think about upgrades sooner rather than later
- buy my turbo kit Very Happy
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TA-022
Forums Junkie


I Supported Toymods

Location:
Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered:
March 2004
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Thu, 08 September 2005 03:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Crank Fired? as in CAS setup yeah...

diff: yeah i do plan on a g-series and full brake upgrade before boost happens.

Head Studs: hold the head to the block i pressume?

Rod Bolts: are these the pins that attach the pistons to the rods?

Sorry internal part names are still new to me.

Basically i plan to do efi by year end and turboby next july.

And Norbs i'd love to buy your kit but i need efi gear 1st. Sad

Cheers

Nathan
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jeffro RA28
Regular


Location:
Tamworth
Registered:
August 2004
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Thu, 08 September 2005 08:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ARP do not make head studs for 18rg's!If u want some see this think, http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=msg&t h=78440&start=0&rid=6957&S=d84f0e48663 37efddc1f28c56c19a44c Best studs u will find anywere! u will have to be quick to get them.
Studs are a better option then bolts. The standards are bolts and are reported to stretch more easily.

Rods bolts are what holds the conrod cap to the conrod. These are placed under alot of stress. It is a must. Trade price for ARP rod bolts is $55, RRP is $150
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THE WITZL
Forums Junkie


Toymods Social Secretary

Location:
Sydney
Registered:
July 2002
 
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Fri, 09 September 2005 04:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
The no.1 way to save money in ANY turbo conversion is to buy a manifold/turbo setup 2nd hand!!!

Trust me - this comes from the master of the $3000 4age turbo conversion. I dare anyone to beat that and my 14.114 quater mile!


Now... to the 18R-G turbo thoughts....Pretty much what norbie said, but i will add:
# buy his manifold.
# have lots of spare money for the extra things that crop up Razz
# get me to wire it Very Happy
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people100
Forums Junkie


Location:
Rocklea qld
Registered:
February 2003
 
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Fri, 09 September 2005 07:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
after going down this track myself currently i strongly suggest that unless u are great at everything yourself or have lots of $$$$ dont bother. just buy a already turbo'd engine. currently im running a 18rgetu with oringed block, copper head gasket, to4 turbo and external waste gate. custom manifold, 3" exhaust. lightened and balanced flywheel with a 450 hp clutch, 7mgte injecters and its cost me a few $$$$ and its not even ready and has no goodies like arp bolts or anything. i also have after market ecu and will be converting to ecu controlled spark soon enough. if you would have been interested 3 months ago i sold a turbo engine with full efi setup, all inpieces but had oringed block and copper head gasket and all new parts for $1000. i do how ever still have a efi thermostat housing for a 18rgeu if you need one and they are very hard to get.
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Steve M
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2003
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Sat, 10 September 2005 03:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Yeah, check out the link to the custom head stud group buy, thanks for that Jeffro.
If you join in we might just have enough people to finally get them made up.

If you're after a bunch of EFI gear, I can find you a plenum & throttle body and possibly a manifold too. Not sure about a fuel rail though and not a fuel pressure regulator.

Shop around for forgies, some are available at more reasonable prices, like the Venolia ones that Toysport can supply or Paradise racing Arias pistons. Most of the prices I've been given from places in Adelaide to source them are just crap.

125RWKW is a figure I've been told would happen with about 5psi (stockish for Nissan engines) into an 8.5ish engine.

I know someone who was running 145RWKW on a standard t-series diff and probably a w55-w58 gearbox.

If you want the thing legal you'd have to get an abreviated ADR emmissions test ($$$$) and hope that you pass it.
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TA-022
Forums Junkie


I Supported Toymods

Location:
Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered:
March 2004
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Sat, 10 September 2005 05:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
considering its a std type motor in a 77 shell emissions should still be that of 1977. So with a bit of tunning i think i should be able to get decent emisions.

as for getting it tested couple o hungy no prob, 1k plus....pffft epa come catch me...lol

as for savin dosh yeah i know its easier to buy some1's but im not a fan of runnin some1 else's project... i want it to be all mine.

Wiring well thats me passion but thanks witz.


***list added too

Thanks all ... keep it coming.

[Updated on: Sat, 10 September 2005 05:09]

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TA-022
Forums Junkie


I Supported Toymods

Location:
Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered:
March 2004
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Sat, 10 September 2005 05:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
what about o-ringing? (what is this?)

and the head gaske sugestion for my application? try the std or just go straight to copper/metal?

Cheers
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TE72_Turbo
Forums Junkie


Location:
Canberra
Registered:
May 2002
 
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Sat, 10 September 2005 05:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
If you decide to upgrade your gearbox to a W55-58, I have a bellhousing here to suit the 18RG to one of these boxes, let me know if you need it.

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Steve M
Forums Junkie


Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2003
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Sun, 11 September 2005 02:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
The issue with emmissions was not so much with the motor but the addition of the turbo to it. A straight 18RG should be no worries. I can get by just with a engineers cert. because my car is pre-july 1976, known as "pre-emmissions".

Do you have to have annual roadworthyness checks?
I'm only mentioning this stuff so that you don't go to get it on the road after setting it all up and find that you won't be allowed to register it. I want to see that beautiful car on the road!
Insurance could also be a concern there.

O ringing is where a recess is machined around each bore and a bit of .8mm mig wire is put in there so that it *just* protrudes from its hole. This wire bites into the metal part of the gasket not allowing it to blow.
This is the decription that I've been given by a reconditioner, if there are any other ways of doing this, please add that too, I'd like to know the options for when I get this done.
O-ringing allows you to run a standard head gasket with a turbo and not have to worry quite as much about it dying a horrible death.

Copper head gasket? I know mechanic place that has had a lot of trouble sealing these. Hylomar is the only thing that seems to work for sealing it.
If you o-ring, you could just get a durapro one from ACL.
DK690 is part number for the VRS kit, change the letters to something different (don't know what yet) but not the numbers and you'll get an 18RG head gasket only.

21RC bellhousing will do the trick for sticking a W55 behind the engine.
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TA-022
Forums Junkie


I Supported Toymods

Location:
Glenmore Park, NSW
Registered:
March 2004
Re: 18RGU -> 18RGTEU Sun, 11 September 2005 23:43 Go to previous message
teh list updated.

some very imteresting ideas here guys.

least i can start buying bits and pieces Very Happy

thanks and keep it coming.
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