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ChrisTH
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September 2005
1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 07:51 Go to next message
Hi,

This is my first post here so please bear with me.

I have a bit unusual mod here in Thailan. It is a Hiace, where I put in a 1J engine a couple of years ago. My reasons was the bad performance of the Diesel engine, and the high repair costs (I blew a Cylinder head). And the fact that complete 1J engines are VERY cheap here (I bought mine for about 600 US$, with A/T, Power steering, A/C. Basically a "plug and play" engine).

I was quite satisfied with the conversion, but there are still minor things that bothers me. They are:

1. Bad fuel economy (doing about 7KM/l on highways).
2. Gear change "holes". (engine output drops when it changes gears).
3. Partly engine "cut-out" with rising engine temperatures.

I do not expect to get the fuel economy of a sedan, but I still think I "deserve" more.

The "holes" are annoying. I many cases, I loose speed when the engine changes to a higher gear (primarely in the 120-130 KM/h area where I really want the power of the engine). Then I have to kick-down and let it pick up speed so the rpms are sufficient for the higher gear.

Recently it started to have problems after 100+ KM drives. The engine almost stalls. It will drive, but too much accellerator will cause the engine to cut out(max speed is about 70 KM/h). That is a problem that came up not long ago, and was never there before. I have changed fuel filters, all the ECU relays, but the problem is still there.

I have just inspected the harness, and there is at least 1 wire cut, and 1 not connected. Looking for pin-outs/wire color codes has been unsuccessful (a 22-16-26 ECU), so I am really in need of help now.

Are any of you able to help me with some manuals and point me in the right direction? I have decided to do the job myself because very few garages will even consider working on this Hiace (it is a bitch, almost no working space. I wonder how they managed to get the engine in there in the first place).

Chris
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 08:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I'm going to go out on a limb here, but it sounds like you are using the factory auto?

If that is the case, it sounds like you are running in limp home mode.
Sounds like the wiring is fubar.

Do you have a Check Engine Light connected?

See what codes the ecu is throwing.
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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 08:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Yes, the engine was pulled out "as it were" i Japan. What they did (and do) was cutting the harness to rip out the engine quicker. The harness was "mended" again, but I am checking it now for defects.

The performance has been quite OK. Top speed is far beyond the limits of the Hiace (a driving shoe box). I coped with the "holes" by keeping the revs high (that could be the cause of the bad gas economy), and accelleration is very good. But it does not perform with low revs (below some 3000).

But the recent problem with the engine almost (or in fact) stalling makes it impossible to drive properly on longer trips.

I used to work a lot with engines, but this one is new to me, and the space is very limited. I really need to know what to look for (and the aprox location).

There is no engine check light lit, and I think it is connected correctly. All other dashboard lights/instruments works like they should.
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 08:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bridge TE1 and E1 in the diagnostics box.
Then turn the key to ON.

The Check Engine Light should start flashing.

If its a constant flash, then there are no codes.
Otherwise, it could flash one or more codes.

Let us know if any codes are stored.
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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 08:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I dont have the Diagnostic Box installed. I only have the 6 wire female connector, that I think would normally plug in to the Box.

What are the wires on the ECU (22-16-26).
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 09:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Can't help you with the pinouts sorry.
Look for a nonvvti 2JZGE pinout, that should be the same.

Don't know why you don't have a diagnostics box.
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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 10:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Thank you for your answers up till now. I have still not found the Diagnostic Box (if it is there). I'll keep looking, or hope for someone with the pinout on the ECU.

BTW. The wire that I found (Blue with a red stripe), is not cut, but for sure has been touching ground. I have not been able to locate where the other wire (Green with a red stripe) should have been connected to. It is just sitting there, unconnected, in the harness. I guess that I have to examine the whole d***** thing.

Thanks again.
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 12:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Start Here

http://toymods.org.au/Repository/TechDocs/2JZ-GE%2 0Wiring%20Diagrams.zip


Actually, don't worry.
Its a 40P, 40P, 40P ecu, not the same as yours.
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cambelt
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melb
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June 2003
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Thu, 22 September 2005 13:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
put a mecanical dizzy in it and modify the inlet manifold to put a carby on it (only sort of joking ,but it would make it simple).
The 1jz ge electics r not the same as a supra or aristo 2j, poss simmiler 2 the jzs 130 crown tho , but have fun finding that info .
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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Fri, 23 September 2005 05:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Rather than spending more time searching, I took the ECU apart and checked the markings on the PCB. Here they are, somebody could run into the same problem getting pinouts.

26 Pin connector

__________________________________________________ ___
E01 #10 #20 S1 S2 S3 ISC1 ISC2 ISC3 ISC4 TGF G2 NE

E02 #30 - ACV STP SP2 IGT EVP L S - G1 E1
__________________________________________________ ___

16 Pin Connector

_______________________________
VF TT OX KNK1 THW THA PIM VCC

G- TE1 SP2 KNK2 IDL VTA TE2 E2
_______________________________

22 Pin Connector

________________________________________________
STA A/C SP1 A/CHG OD2 ELS W M-REL EGW IGSW BATT

NSW P ECT L1 L2 L3 FC CCO E +B +B1
________________________________________________

So I guess next step is to map the wiring and check it. Pheew.

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ChrisTH
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Fri, 23 September 2005 05:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Seems to be a delay before new posts arrive. So I cannot edit the previous one.

From the first look at the wires and the pinouts it seems that I dont have a ACV signal (Wire is not connected). That fits with the valve on the manifold never working.

That explains some of the symptoms, but still not why the engine starts stalling when it gets hot and have driven for 100+ KM

[Updated on: Fri, 23 September 2005 12:57]

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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Fri, 23 September 2005 08:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Well, now I unwrapped the harness that they reconnected.

Not a nice sight. I guess they only connected what was required to make the car run. I think that I will have a tuff job in front of me to get everything back in place. I am not even shure that the engine part of the harness (what was left after the cut) corresponds to the ECU connector part (I mean wire color coding).

Thx for you help
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gianttomato
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Fri, 23 September 2005 08:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Before you get too crazy, just write down which wires are connected to each other, just in case after you have played with it, it doesn't run.

As an aside, about a year or so ago I found some pinouts for a 1JZGE but the document was in Thai. The only online Thai translator I could find was not working so I didn't save the page. Might be worth you scouring the net.

That said, you should be able to complete the wiring with the pinouts you posted.

Would be handy to know if you are using the auto?

[Updated on: Fri, 23 September 2005 09:03]

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ChrisTH
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Fri, 23 September 2005 09:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I will for sure.
From what I can see now on the ECU side, it is mainly the diagnostics that are not connected (hence no Check Box) and the "smooth" signals like A/C, Stop Lights, an so on. What worries me a bit is that there are about 21 wires from the engine side that are not connected, and I dont see corresponding color codes on the ECU side.

Would be nice to have a wiring diagram, but I do not have all the details on the engine (year, model and so on), so that will be hard to get.

I guess I might be forced to trace all the wires. Crying or Very Sad
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gianttomato
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Fri, 23 September 2005 09:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Starting look like you will need to trace out all the wires if you have that many wires unaccounted for.
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ChrisTH
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Thailand
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Fri, 23 September 2005 13:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Enough for today. Dark now.

It looks like most of the essential wires are there and connected. But I still have the 21 loose ends (Mostly Brown, Green and light Green with markings).

I think I'll make a diagnostic Box tomorrow now that I have the Harness split open. Should be easy now. I just have to locate the wire making the Engine signal (Diagnostic Codes).

One valve that I know for sure is not working is the one located on the Air Chamber. It looks like it opens between the Left and Right side of the intake. It has 2 vaccum signals and a solenoid (+ a Vaccum (?) container) located in the rear below the manifold. I wonder if that is the solenoid activated by the unconnected wire from the ECU (ACV pin)?

Well. Tomorrow is another day.

[Updated on: Fri, 23 September 2005 13:08]

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ChrisTH
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sat, 24 September 2005 05:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Now I have most in place.

I have 2 unused pins on the 26 pin connector:

ACV and STP

Anybody go a clue what they do?

On the 16 Pin connector it is only the test pins that are not connected (TE1, TE2, TT, and VF). I'll break out those wires when I wrap up the harness again.

On the 22 pin connector a lot of pins are not connected. They are:

A/C, SP1, A/CHG, ELS, W, EGW, ECT, L1, L2, L3, CCO, E

I guess they are the sensor signals from A/C, Brake (A/C and ELS)

The CCO should be on the diag box and W and EGW is the engine warning light.

So that leaves me with SP1, A/CHG, ECT, L1-3, and E. Any ideas of the functions (if any)?

From my surf it seems that one of my problems are the non-function of the valve on the Air Intake Chamber. Now I have the Toyota name for it, ACIS, so basically control of the airflow based on Throttle and rpm to achieve max performance. Could that be the un-connected ACV pin? I guess I can test it by reving the engine. This site has a nice decription of the 2 Airflow systems that Toyota uses:

http://www.turbomr2.com/MR2/Reference/TVIS/TVIS.ht m

Well, getting closer, but still unanswered questions. Anybody can help?
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sat, 24 September 2005 05:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ACV I'm not sure
STP is STOP LIGHT input, from the brake pedal.
SP1 is speed sensor 1 - the 4 pulse per rev output from the back of the speedo
A/CHG sounds like Alternator Charge but I'm not sure.
W is the Check Engine Light output
EGW is Exhaust Gas Warning (light?)
ECT is Electronically Controller Transmission, its the POWER button
L1, L2, L3 are automatic thing, not 100% sure, but it could be solenoids 1, 2 and 3 on the auto tranny.
CCO is Exhaust Temp Sensor
E I'm not sure.
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sat, 24 September 2005 05:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
E is usually Earth - will be if the wire is brown.

ACV could be ACIS (TVIS), but the 2JZGE ecu is labeled ACIS on that, not ACV, so I'm not sure.
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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sat, 24 September 2005 06:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Found it Razz The ACV is in fact supplying a signal to the ACIS solenoid (at 60% throttle), and is not connected. Time to check the wiring under the manifold.

Thank you for the clarification of the other signals. I think I am getting closer now.

BUT, one more thing. The ECU also has a Pigtail. For the transmission control I think. It is an 8-pin connector. The pins read (on the PCB):

SP20
VT01
VT02
IDL2
Not connected
TR
SP2
VTA2

I wonder if that connector could account for some of the loose wires. There is nothing connected to it.

If I find the wires for the ACIS soleniod in the loose wires, I am still left with 19 unaccounted for. One is for sure a sensor. My harness uses Blue/Red for the VC wires, and that is the coding of one of them.
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ChrisTH
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sat, 24 September 2005 08:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
That was a tuff one. I found the color codes on the wires on the solenoid (almost broke my back under the car), but no matching wire in the harness Shocked . In the end I opened the plastic cover of the harness on the engine, and voila... there was the missing wire. Confused

Enough for today, have a sore back now.

BTW. On the first test run I noticed a bit backfire when releasing the accellerator. I remember fiddling around with the Throttle position sensor (due to the missing ACIS?). Can anybody tell me how to set the sensor correctly? (I have multimeter and all, just need the procedure).

[Updated on: Sat, 24 September 2005 09:13]

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ChrisTH
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sun, 25 September 2005 03:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I will wrap up the work on the harness now. I got the ACIS working and also have the signal from the A/C connected now. I will break out the remaining unused wires and make a diag box.

I think I have an explanation for the rest of the unconnected wires. This engine was never ment to be in this car. It use to be in front of the driver seat and the dashboard. Now it is under and behind the driver and the dashboard is in the front of the engine. The remaining wires were probably connected to the dashboard, but in my case they rewired a lot directly from the engine.

Anyway, it was a good experience. Thank you for help
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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sun, 25 September 2005 14:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Let us know how it drives once its all back together.
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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Sun, 25 September 2005 15:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Will for sure. I have everything together now, and it works very nicely. From the first test runs, it worked out very well.

A lot of extra power now. I think that the "holes" are gone now. I have to take it for a longer run to check the mileage and the "cut-out".

How do I show pics here? Maybe you would like to see the Car and the engine. A lot of people dont believe that it is possible to put a 1J in a Hiace. I fact I went for a 2J GTE first, but that one dont fit for sure. Too tall.

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CrUZsida
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Re: 1JZ-GE questions Mon, 26 September 2005 00:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
You have to upload it somewhere (imageshage, supload etc, if not your own webspace) and then use the img /img tag
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ChrisTH
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Thailand
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Mon, 26 September 2005 11:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
I guess that I was celebrating too early. This morning everything was working fine, but just now, I suddenly lost 1 cylinder. Sad to drive only on 5 cyls.

It ought not be the ignition (I have a very expensive corbon wireset installed), but the smell of gasolin tells me something else. Well I guess that I have open up again an check. It could also be the injector on the last cylinder. That is in area where I did all the harness work.
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ChrisTH
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September 2005
Re: 1JZ-GE questions Mon, 26 September 2005 11:20 Go to previous message
I have not opened up yet (Getting dark here in Thailand}, but I have a good idea from where it comes. The Engine ia a Jap engine with heating system pipes. We dont really need heating here in Thailand, so the pipes has been sealed off. From the sound (boiling) and water dripping, i think that the rear seal blew off, spilling cooling water all over the engine (and also the last Cyl).

So time to work a bit more on the engine Sad

Yes, in fact it was. There seems to be 2 types of caps available on the market. A rubber/plastic type, and a pure rubber. Well mine was the first type (only 25 cents here), so now I changed it to pure rubber (1$). I guess it is worth it, considering the rubber/plastic cap "died" after 2-3 years of service.

[Updated on: Mon, 26 September 2005 15:29]

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