[Updated on: Fri, 28 January 2005 14:39]

[Updated on: Sun, 30 January 2005 23:26]

Blacksupra, yes, I used to own the Turbo falcon, the white one in issure 59 of Zoom.

As for camshafts, cams with more overlap don't mean les power and you blow all your intake charge out the exhaust in a turbo engine. They will however be more laggy, as when the turbo is coming on boost through the mid range, they are to some extent doing that, blowing it out the exhuast. What will happen is the engine will make peak power higher in the rev range with more overlap, such as NA cams, as it can breath easier at high revs. When you have less overlap, at high revs the engine is struggling to get all the gas out of the cylinder as the exhuast valve is closed for longer while the intake is open, hence killing power.

I guess its all a trade off, you can have more peak power and a bit laggier engine, or quicker spool, less power and at lower rpm. My engine made peak power at 8200rpm on 15psi with NA cams, and 7600rpm at 29psi. You will find most engines will make peak power ealier with more boost due once again to cylinder pressure and back pressure starting to overcome the efficiency of the engine. The NA cams have 7.5mm of lift, and the turbo cams have 7.3. Not much of a difference, but everything helps. I think the NA cams have around 205deg of duration as opposed to the turbo ones which I think we measured at 194 degrees.

The one thing that changes it all is adjustable cam gears, as you can simply widen or narrow the lobe separation, which effectively change the overlap. I had mine set at 1deg negative on the exhaust cam, and 3 degrees advanced on the intake. We pcked up 23hp at 5000rpm, but lost 3hp at 8000rpm. For the ignition you will need to either have the single coil setup from a turbo engine, or 6 individual coil packs, as the factory waste spark coil packs from the supercharged engine, or any waste sparke arrangement won't handle anything past around 300-350rwhp depending on your plug gaps and if you have CDI. I use regular cheap plugs in my engine, they are BSPR7E-11's, with the plug gaps closed down to .8mm, I have 6 coils with CDI and it still breaks down with stock 1.1mm plug gaps, but close them down to .8 and it will make another 100hp at the tryres without breaking down.

I'm think of tryin the same plugs they use in big HP nissan engines, the number is R5671A-8, the electrode doesn't stick out the tip of the plug in the chamber, its nearly flush with the bottom of the threads on the plug, this pulls the flame front out of the squish in the chamber so its not blowing the spark out, as I think this might be the problem with the standard type plugs. Sorry if this is a bit off topic of the manifold, but I guess its only helping with what the engine can and can't do.

And the stock bottom end can handle this fine, Racecraft run 10.0's in the celica with stock wrecker engines, how long they live depends on how you tune them and how you treat them. I now only have forged pistons and shotpeened factory rods becuase my engine bay is too nice to be pulling engines in and out if I do break shit wrecker engines, no other reason. Don't go leaner than 12:1 A/F with the stock plenum, and don't run more than 16 degrees of ignition ting on 30psi of boost and it should be fine. You can run around 25-28 degrees on 15psi.

6BOOST

[Updated on: Tue, 01 February 2005 01:26]