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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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 Limp mode? Project Decade strikes again.
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Mon, 03 October 2005 06:11
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Hey guys,
I know I've done similar threads before, but this one has been further updated. I'm not sure if it's also causing some of the issues i'm having with my boost controller. Apologies for the size.
When it's working the car is magic. Cold starts at 1600rpm, idles warm at ~700rpm, smooth as. Screams up to redline, would hold 0.8bar+ using the Jaycar IEBC no worries.
First off, the car cold starts at 2200rpm, then idles at anywhere from 900-1500rpm when warm (too high, usually at ~1200rpm). When you first fire it up, it sounds really sick and lumps along for a sec, then races up to the high revs. It's also running uber rich, with the occasional pop from the exhaust. My rear bar looks like I've got a Microtech and not tuned it  Adjusting the TB idle screw all the way doesn't get it working properly.
Adjusting the AFM screw only makes it idle too high, or stutter. Currently, it's still quite smooth, not like before with the faulty injector.
I wiggled all the wires in the loom near where I've touched them, and all seem fine. I've made sure the ECU is firmly in all it's plugs.
All injectors have been cleaned, including the spare I got to replace the dead one. I've loosened the rail and wiggled them all around to ensure they were seated correctly, then tightened them down again and no change.
I went around the engine bay and checked for any air leaks with a hose. I found a couple, but I've since fixed them and I don't know of any others.
The cold start injector I removed and chucked in a jar and ran the engine, the engine was already warm. There wasn't a drop in it.
The ISCV is clean and appears to be functioning correctly (well, at least some of the time).
Yesterday I took out the multimeter and the Gen2 1GGTE ECU sheet, that has the recommended voltages at each pin of the ECU. All bar the AFM was spot on with the specs, although the AFM is the same as 3 other ones i've tried, including one on a perfectly running GZ20.
The only sensor I haven't really tried is the O2 sensor, because I couldn't find in my stuff how to check it.
Previously (when it pulled the 120rwhp) it was running really badly above 4000rpm and showing code 12, which turned out to be the dizzy. After replacing the dizzy, my boost cut and rev limiter started working.
The ECU has no codes, I've also tried resetting the ECU.
I'm running out of ideas, and I hate giving it to someone. Every time I hand the car over they cock it up to some extent.
I'm tearing my hair out trying to work out what's wrong, i'd really like it idling correctly for when it goes over the pits, because it's a lot quieter at 6-700rpm, than it is at 1200rpm.
The last time it was working correctly was when we put in a new dizzy. That night it worked perfectly. I haven't changed anything since then other than to top up the coolant.
Any ideas, brainstorming, throw them at me, no matter how random, as you can see, i've checked a lot and i'm running out of ideas.
Cheers,
Nathan
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Limp mode? Project Decade strikes again.
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Mon, 03 October 2005 06:12
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Holy shit, sorry guys, that's the most massive post I've done without pics! 
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Location:
Adelaide, SA
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Limp mode? Project Decade strikes again.
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Mon, 03 October 2005 06:44
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Checked TPS? This was the cause of problems I had similar to yours until today, when I bothered to check it.
I only had a hunting idle when it was the ISCV, because it only got power while cranking which of course left it wide open, causing the AFM to read too high at idle. Was a PITA to drive around like that too!
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Limp mode? Project Decade strikes again.
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Mon, 03 October 2005 06:50
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I haven't *properly* checked TPS explicitly. I did check all the TPS pins on the ECU though which I'd assume would be the same. Also, as far as I know, the ECU won't display codes if the engine isn't on IDL. How did you check it?
I haven't touched the ISCV wires explicitly, just the ECU wires, how can it not be getting power? I know it's sorta working, because you turn the car off and it clicks itself off.
Also, I've checked the timing, 10-11 degrees with pins bridged.
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Location:
Adelaide, SA
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Limp mode? Project Decade strikes again.
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Mon, 03 October 2005 06:59
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Just place a multimeter over the red and black wires on the TPS in resistor mode. You want to adjust it so that the circuit is closed at idle, and anything off idle the circuit should be open.
As for the ISCV... well the middle two pins should be powered, but I doub't this is your problem. Checked temp sensors?
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