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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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 Project Decade Saga Continues
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Thu, 03 November 2005 23:37
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Well, this weekend I'm going to make my last big effort to try and sort this POS out before I take it to someone. I'm fast running out of ideas, and barely being able to keep in front of a Magna this morning on 0.9bar was embarassing.
Basically this is going to be a brain dump of everything I've tried. Whatever the problem is, it's going to be small, but alas everything I've tried to date hasn't worked. Hopefully by outlaying everything, it might trigger something with someone, or they might recognise a symptom. I hesitate to take it to an auto electrician, because I know I should be able to find the problem myself.
The symptoms
- Hesitates when it first starts up, chugs a little before coming up to revs.
- When it finally does start cold, it blows a massive cloud of smoke, lumbers for half a sec then screams up to 2200rpm.
- When it finally does warm up, the idle can vary anywhere from 800rpm to 2200rpm with no particular driving style favouring either end of the spectrum.
- When idling, it pops out the exhaust, sometimes only a little bit, remaining smooth, sometimes quite pronounced.
- Power is down, particularly in the upper revs, 4500rpm onwards it feels likes it's hitting a brick wall.
Last time working correctly
- About 2 months ago, for one night. We'd just changed the distributor over because it was throwing a code 12. It ran beautifully all night. Came back week later, topped the coolant up and car was back to running crap.
Things replaced
- Has a brand new set of NGK plugs
- Has a brand new set of 8mm Magnecor leads
- New 82 degree thermostat
- Has a brand new dizzy cap
Things substituted
- AFM
- dizzy
- rotor button
- coil/igniter
- fuel pump
- ECU
Things tried/checked
- Injectors cleaned
- CSI not leaking
- Voltages correct as per: http://users.bigpond.net.au/justcallmefrank/pinout s.jpg
- Removed engine fan and listened for vacuum leaks, followed from AFM to TB and fixed any leaks encountered
- All injectors clicking
- ISCV cleaned
- Boost seems to be holding fine
- Not throwing any codes (other than speed sensor when I drive to work on freeway)
Things checked by think need more attention
- Earths. I've checked with a multimeter the main earths at the ECU pins. I made sure the ones I found on the coil/igniter and the underside of the inlet manifold were good, but I'm unsure if there are any other ones around the engine itslef to check.
I'll add some more as I remember them. If any of the above triggers any sort of idea, just tell me, no matter how far fetched, i'll entertain anything atm.
[Updated on: Fri, 04 November 2005 05:11]
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Location:
Northwestern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 00:53
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Throwing an Idea here...
Have you looked at the O2 sensor? I'm a little out of my depth here but if the O2 is shagged the computer may be over/under fuelling from false readings??
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 01:28
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My first thoughts are it's an ignition problem. The fact that the engine last ran properly after you changed the dizzy cap is the first clue, and the popping while idling (misfiring) is another clue.
1. Have you tried experimenting with different plug gaps? I've found my 2JZ is quite sensitive to this, get it wrong and it runs like total crap similar to your description. I'm currently running less than the factory gap spec.
2. Can you borrow a stronger ignition module (eg one of those CDI things) to see if that makes a difference?
3. Do you have a way of checking the ignition timing while the engine is under load (on a dyno I guess)? This will tell you if the ignition advance is erratic or too retarded/advanced at high rpm. My 2JZ has NO power when it goes into safety-mega-retard mode.
That's all I can think of for now... food for thought.
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Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 01:29
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Just an idea (as it seems you have checked a lot of possibilities), have you checked the cam timing? Has anyone changed the cam timing belt and possibly fitted it incorrectly (even a tooth out?).
Good luck.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 01:38
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Thanks guys, appreciate anything you guys can give, it's just really getting to me, I'm almost at the stage where i'm going to crack it and get a Microtech, but there really can only be a small problem causing this, it runs alright, so I can't see it being major.
The O2 sensor is a possibility, does anyone know the procedure for testing it? That said, I wouldn't have thought it would be used under WOT.
I'm leaning towards an ignition problem too, whether it's a component problem or a signal problem i'm unsure. I tried a 0.8mm plug gap before, but it seemed to run no different. I've currently got a 1.1mm plug gap as that's what the new plugs were pre-gapped at. Seems to be working for Hydra, and shouldn't be an issue at idle I wouldn't have thought.
Can't really borrow a stronger ignition module, that said, it shouldn't be a problem at idle.
Not really got a way to test the WOT ignition timing, I spose that might be one of the few things I can't test myself.
I've checked the cam timing previously and it hasn't been changed since it was running perfectly before. I might check on the weekend to see if it has slipped a tooth when I run out of other things to check.
Keep em coming guys, I'm compiling a list of what's left. If I can't get it going this weekend i'm going to probably give up.
Does anyone know what earths are on the 1G engine itself?
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Location:
brisbane
Registered:
September 2005
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 01:40
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ok this is probably a very long shot but:
does it use water to any extent?
u may have a head gasket on the way out, happened to a car i was workin on, ran like absolute shit, and basically what happens is it lets a little bit of water into the cylinder which sometimes hits the spark plug, so it doesnt ignite.
makes it appear to be an ignition issue and causes the misfiring and back firing. anywho just a suggest
g/l mate
~andrew~
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 01:50
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Hmm, haven't noticed it using any water. I will check though, cheers, it's another avenue to investigate.
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Location:
Northwestern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 02:13
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Going on from Norbies Idea of timing....
I recently pulled a 1G out of a car that had 67,xxx kms on the clock and started pulling the engine down.
When I pulled the timing belt cover off pull the wiring loom off the engine I noticed the part of the loom that goes from the Plenum side across to the Dizzy side under the timing cover had signs of wear on it. ie you could see bare copper on 3 or 4 separate wires.
I didn't investigate what it was rubbing on but it was definatly wearing and this would affect wiring to/from dizzy, AFM, 02, and anything else that feeds from that side.
Can any body say long shot?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 02:19
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| Lambolica wrote on Fri, 04 November 2005 10:13 |
Can any body say long shot?
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I vaguely remember something like this on mine, I just made sure it was all taped up. Definetly something to look at though!
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Epping, Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 02:23
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1.1mm seems to be gneral toyota recommended, but every performance workshop I've spoken to reckons 0.8mm is a much better number for pretty much any turbo engine...
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 02:27
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The 1G is *supposed* to have 0.8mm gap and platinum plugs. Shouldn't matter at idle though.
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Location:
Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 05:00
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I know squat about fuel injected cars, given that I run LPG, but that sounds very much like an electronic gremlin. Idle being that far out would tend to suggest ICSV, popping on on decel/idle means running rich, possible again ICSV/ICSV connection.
Considering the fact that you changed the dizzy over and it worked fine, and then suddenly after sitting and probably enduring some form of weather, it didn't work, it's probably an electrical thing SOMEWHERE...
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Location:
Northwestern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 05:32
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"Borrow" someone elses loom and test?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 05:48
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That one is a wee bit difficult, and if I was going to do that, i'd just bite the bullet and get my Microtech 
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Location:
Gold Coast
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 05:51
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have you done a compression check?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 06:19
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Yes, and they were all around the 155psi mark stone cold.
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Registered:
August 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 11:35
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Are you 100% positive your custom loom is correct?
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Location:
Perth
Registered:
July 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 14:15
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Whilst it is running try giving ALL (ie all underbonnet + ECU plugs) your connectors a wiggle (ie slow rotation). I wouldn't be surprised if there is something wrong with just one pin in one connector that is stuffing things up.
A mate of mine had a Starion that would cut out whenever underbonnet temps got high. It turned out to be a the +ve feed for the injectors going high resistance due to the connector not making properly.
Peter
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 23:46
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| BlackSupra wrote on Fri, 04 November 2005 19:35 |
Are you 100% positive your custom loom is correct?
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Correct yes. 100% working, no. The soldering iron I used to do them is questionable. It wouldn't surprise me if something has a bad connection.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 04 November 2005 23:47
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| 82MKII wrote on Fri, 04 November 2005 22:15 |
Whilst it is running try giving ALL (ie all underbonnet + ECU plugs) your connectors a wiggle (ie slow rotation). I wouldn't be surprised if there is something wrong with just one pin in one connector that is stuffing things up.
A mate of mine had a Starion that would cut out whenever underbonnet temps got high. It turned out to be a the +ve feed for the injectors going high resistance due to the connector not making properly.
Peter
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Sounds definetly feasible, i'll add it to the list of things to check today.
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Location:
Adelaide, SA
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Sat, 05 November 2005 00:13
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| justcallmefrank wrote on Fri, 04 November 2005 12:57 |
The 1G is *supposed* to have 0.8mm gap and platinum plugs. Shouldn't matter at idle though.
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You have tried plug gaps between 0.8 and 1.1 haven't you?
I've tried both extremes without any issues.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sat, 05 November 2005 00:21
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You could also check the plugs on the ecu, make sure the plugs AND wires are right in. I had a problem with my 1G, plugs were in but a couple of wires weren't making full contact, they were a bit sloppy in the plugs, just give the wires a push in each too.
Good Luck
Glen.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sat, 05 November 2005 00:46
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| Gleno28 wrote on Sat, 05 November 2005 08:21 |
You could also check the plugs on the ecu, make sure the plugs AND wires are right in. I had a problem with my 1G, plugs were in but a couple of wires weren't making full contact, they were a bit sloppy in the plugs, just give the wires a push in each too.
Good Luck
Glen.
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That's a definite possibility too, i might push all of them in nice and tight, I know the plugs themselves are snapped into the connectors, but I didn't check the individual wires.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Sage Continues
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Sat, 05 November 2005 00:51
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| HyDrA wrote on Sat, 05 November 2005 08:13 |
You have tried plug gaps between 0.8 and 1.1 haven't you?
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Yep, and you were my basis for comparison
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 02:12
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Checked all the voltages at the ECU pins as per the sheet, everything in spec, except for the AFM, but it's exactly the same as a perfect running GZ20 my mate has.
I checked the wiring from the ECU pins to each of the pins on the dizzy and igniter connectors, all less than 1 ohm.
Gave each of the connectors a wiggle while it was running, nothing made it change. Gave the wiring near the ECU a little tug. Didn't do anything.
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Location:
wollongong
Registered:
March 2004
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 03:29
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Collapsed catalytic convertor?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 03:34
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It's brand new.
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Location:
brisbane
Registered:
September 2005
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 03:50
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did u check ur head gasket?
maybe just tighten her up a little
the headgasket played up after i topped up the coolant in the car i mentioned, if u have tried just ignore me, but it is definitely worth a shot
~andrew~
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 03:52
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I'm going to give it another compression test this arvo to check out ze head gasket. It seems strange because it came good one night, then went back to being shit. Ah well. Time shall tell.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 04:21
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Another thing that kinda worked once for me was unplugging the ecu for a few minutes to reset it. is it factory? that should clear the old codes, take it for a drive and see what new ones it brings up
worth a try if you haven't yet...
Glen.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 04:22
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I've tried resetting the ECU, doesn't throw any codes. Does anyone here have a multimeter, a working 1GGTE and a desire to check something for me?
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 04:58
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the chugging and smoke when starting.
is the smoke from fuel?
the chugging could be far too much fuel, and struggling to ignite (does it have a cold start injector?)
(i had this with MS when cranking and afterstart were too high)
if you have cold start injector, check the injector itself (disconnect plug, se what happens) and then check the temp switch for it to see if it switching off... it could be intermittently turning back on...
the lumbering then revving sound slike fuel being cleared out, then it starts firing properly, but ISCV has already opened up to let air in.. so rpm shoots up??
varying idle. ISCV not functional, not adjusted correctly, or else there is vac leak somewhere... the 7K ISCV can be rotated to set a sort of base idle speed, and there is a fair adjustmet either way (which is only maybe 20-30deg rotation)
mising idle and power dwn sound to me like it could be ignition..
what plugs and what heat range ar you using?
on my 4K (yar, i know it's abotu as far away as you can get for an analogy ).... putting HEI on turned a popping missing idle into perfectly smooth... it also cured issues with occasional missing all the way thru rpm range.. felt more... solid.
i also had isues with plug gap. 0.75-0.8 seemed to be best. bigger caused idle missing, and from about... 4000-4500 (after all advance was in?) it would start missing a bit... at highway speed it was well down on power with a bigger plug gap.
i have also seen ppl have these issues with a dud ballast resistor on the coil.. reducing the voltage too much to the coil, and giving weak sparks..
how is the rotor in the dizzy? is it the correct one? is it worn?
umm umm...
you are not running optimax are you?  i have had similar issues with idle and lack of power quite a few times after filling up with opticraps... and a friend with ninja600 also had similar issues.... so one day we filled up at same servo same time... and same issues have never gone back to shell ... mobil 8000, bp's ..stuff.... even caltex vortex.. (almost) anything except opticraps...
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 04:59
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oh.. fuel filter?
fuel pickup in the tank??
fuel pressure??
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 05:04
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Thanks Stew...lemme see if I can get through this.
New fuel filter. Fuel pickup seemed clean when I put it back in. Haven't checked fuel pressure, leaving that for pro.
The smoke could be fuel or oil, haven't really had a good look. It does have a cold start injector, but i've had it running outside the inlet manifold and it definetly turns off when it's supposed to.
Plugs are NGK's, standard version instead of the platinums they're supposed to have.
ISCV appears to be functioning correctly, having it unplugged makes the revs go nuts. You can also hear it clicking off.
Rotor in the dizzy is okay, better than the one that was originally in there, and swapping it did nothing to improve anything, so i'm assuming the old one was working fine.
We don't have Optimax here Only fed on a diet of Ultimate 98.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 06:21
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Nothing I've done seems to bring any solutions. I almost know this stupid thing back to front but i'm still no closer to getting it working. I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and send it to a pro, man I hate doing this... 
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Location:
Adelaide
Registered:
June 2005
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 06:30
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I ran my old 1G-GTE with out the O2 sensor pluged in this made it run heaps more fuel but not to the extent that it made smoke like what your speaking of, made it possible for extra boost.
Just un-plug it and see how it runs, this is one way to eliminate it if it runs.
I would be checking fuel prsesure and the presure regulator, if this is stuffed it will put everything out of wack.
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 06:30
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fat lotta help i was then
ummm....
i guess Norbies idea then.. stick it on dyno and check AFM and ignition.. see whats happening 
suxors...
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Location:
brisbane
Registered:
September 2005
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 06:31
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lol i know how u feel mate
had to take my car in yesterday coz there is a itsy bitsy issue in my wiring somewhere which makes the a/c switch on when u turn the fan up to speed 3 and makes the indicators come on permanently
i know how bloody annoying it is so i'd just give it over to a pro and let them yell "why arnt u working properly you effing piece of shit" rather than u doing it
g/l anyways mate
~andrew~
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 06:32
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O2 sensor should only affect cruise.... shoudln't be used for idle or WOT....
but ya never know...
it should flick from high to low volts (like.. 0.2 to 0.8 maybe) when cruising, to show that the ECU is correcting fuel rich and lean)
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Location:
townsville NQLD
Registered:
February 2004
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 12:50
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my 1ggte also pops at idle. another thing with mine is that it throws so much water out the exhaust.
something you might like to check is if there is any thrown shims.
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Location:
brisbane
Registered:
September 2005
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 12:57
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well this mite sound like im gettin a bit repetitive but water out the exhaust mite suggest leaking h/g
frank (its wat we call u rite?)wat colour cloud of smoke do u get on startup, if its white would suggest water, anywho thats enough from me and my narrow mind
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 13:11
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water out the exhaust is almost alwasy caused by condenstion in the exhaust, as opposed the HG leak..
when the exhaust is warm enough, no water will drip out, not even if there was a HG leak.... almost all cars drip or gush water when the exhaust is cold... depending on shape of the rear muffler....
you could always stck a multi on the O2 sensor and see if it goes drastically rich or lean when said probs ocur...
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Location:
Perth, WA
Registered:
December 2004
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 16:15
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His name is Nathan, not Frank.
Its most likely not a BHG, since the car ran fine for a little while, stop with that.
Nathan, you said your soldering iron was questionable, i would think that this would be the source of your problem.
If you think/know the connections are dodgy, and this problem appears to be an electrical issue, then i suggest you go over it with a fine tooth comb, its not like the auto sparky wont have to do the exact same thing.
check and double check everything.... aldditionally, you could get it dyno'd to get a better idea of whats going on.
Eldar.O.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 22:36
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I don't know what the deal is with the stupid thing  It does do water out the exhaust, but as Stew said it's just condensation, and once she's warm it'll stop.
This morning she wasn't popping out the exhaust, it did idle at ~2000rpm for most of my journey to work as well though That said, she was hauling ass on high and low boost.
Oh, and you can call me Nathan or Frank, I don't mind either way
I've been through all my connections, I've tested to make sure all the earths are good. I can't see them being dodgy any more. The important ones are all in the fuse box, and they're the ones i'm not overly concerned about, they were done well, and they're all heatshrunk nice and tight.
I even tested the wires between the dizzy plug and the ECU plug, and the igniter plug and the ECU plug. Hell, I even tested the wires between the dizzy plug and all the other ones on that side of the loom to make sure nothing was shorting!
The thing that never made sense was that the car would always run right for a particular drive. It would never stuff up half way through a drive. It's like yesterday arvo, I fired it up and it ran crappy. Pulling #1 lead off barely affected the idle. Same for the #1 injector. Do the same for say #6 and chug chug chug. Move it out the front, start it 5 minutes later and vroom, 6 cylinder XX. Meh, the pros will know, they have millions of dollars worth of equipment I dont.
I'm over it now, it ran like a demon this morning which was fun, and I've resolved myself to the fact I'm going to take it to someone with more experience than me. I will keep everyone posted on how it goes. Thanks to all for their suggestions.
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Location:
VIC, Sth Frankston.
Registered:
July 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 22:38
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Are the wires from the dizzy VR pickups, are they insulated from noise? The ecu might be getting false triggers?? 
Other than that, I haven't a clue... hows ur airfilter?
cheers,
James
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 22:40
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The dizzy signal should be isolated from noise by some shielding yes. That said, that's one of the things I can't really check myself because I don't have a CRO.
Air filter is a newie.
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Location:
Brisbane
Registered:
August 2004
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sun, 06 November 2005 23:36
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tried swapping/replacing knock sensors?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Mon, 07 November 2005 00:07
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Knock sensors no. Haven't tried them as they aren't really something I can check myself.
Well, it's booked in for tomorrow. *sigh* Ah well, I'm just visualising the smile on my face when it comes back working.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Thu, 10 November 2005 10:08
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This car officially sucks the massive dong. The EFI place pretty much tested everything they could without a dyno, to no avail. They tested the ISCV, and it came up dodge.
So, I replace the ISCV, expecting good things. It's improved the idle sure, about *this* much. Real test will be cold start.
My most favourite bit though, is the top end, instead of just hesitating at 5000rpm, it has a big splutter and a backfire.
GOOD F'ING TIMES
The last pieces I wanted before I got a Microtech arrived yesterday, i'm seriously considering just getting it now.
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Location:
Kita-Ku, Sapporo, Japan
Registered:
January 2003
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Thu, 10 November 2005 13:45
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have you ever tested the temp response of the temp sensors? both air and coolant?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Thu, 10 November 2005 23:04
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As in tested the values of the sensors at each temperature? Yeah, checked them out, both at the ECU, and I've actually had them out to measure the resistance.
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Location:
sunny coast, qld
Registered:
October 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Thu, 10 November 2005 23:46
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Feel sorry for you mate. If there is something wrong with the electrical system now and the microtech uses the stock sensors, are you sure it will fix the problem?
Either way, I think the tunability of an aftermarket ecu plus you don't need any guages to read things is a big plus
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Thu, 10 November 2005 23:55
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The sensors all appear fine when checked individually. Plus, I'd be ruling out the loom issue when I get a new loom.
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Location:
Burnie, Tasmania
Registered:
July 2005
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 11 November 2005 10:35
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Are they correct injectors ?
Have you seen the engine run well before or was it a front cut?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Fri, 11 November 2005 12:05
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They are the correct injectors. Last time I saw it running right was in my car.
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Sat, 12 November 2005 05:17
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This one time we were short on cash and tried to run copper plugs in my friends 7mgte poopra to clear up a slight misfire. Didn't like it one bit and made it worse, ended up with 6 fouled plugs. We chucked the old grotty platinums back in and it was running smoothish again all 6 cylinders but dropping one every so often.
I don't see why coppers didn't work for us, but something else to try.
dan
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Tue, 15 November 2005 22:57
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Well after regapping the plugs to 0.8mm (which seemed to achieve nothing) and fiddling with the idle screws, we have almost an acceptable idle of around 900-1100rpm. Not perfect, but at the limit of my care factor.
After reading about knock control all of yesterday, I decided it would be a good idea to disconnect my knock sensors, drive home and see if the problem improved. I figured it would just throw a code. I was wrong. After removing one wire, and snapping the other one off (oops!) I drove off, and I've never experienced limp mode quite like this. It was slower than the RA60, and was even slower on boost. Keeping up with traffic was nigh on impossible.
Quick stop off to DSE on the way home, picked up some shielded coax cable and took it home. $5 and 45 minutes later I started the car with it's new wiring, revved it to 2000rpm, and no code, signs are good.
Quick test spin on way out showed it would pull to redline in 2nd quite comfortably. Ventures past 5000rpm in 1st, 2nd and 3rd confirmed it, the knock sensor wiring was rooted. All seems well again...but it still needs more power, so an aftermarket ECU is in order.
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Location:
Arthurs Creek, Victoria
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Wed, 16 November 2005 01:08
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Your kidding..
All that fucking around was for a knock sensor wire?
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Perth
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: Project Decade Saga Continues
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Wed, 16 November 2005 01:30
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I wish I was. I knew it would be small, and I knew it would be something hard to test for. It would appear though, that the lengths of coax cable I ran in place of the factory knock sensor wires have worked.
Soo annoying. Knowing my luck though, she'll get worse, touch wood, it's going to be nice to me from now on.
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