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Location:
Southern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
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1jz auto comp question.
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Sat, 01 March 2003 00:45
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Hi Guys,
I'm considering buying Draven's old auto computer as my shifting has gone downhill over the last few months and I've already addressed the mechanical side of things.
Anyway, what I want to know is will the Auto Computer from a JZA70 be a direct swap for mine (JZZ30).
Cheers,
If nobody knows can I come over and give it a try Draven???
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Location:
newcastle
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Sat, 01 March 2003 04:44
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i assume by sorting out mechanical things you mean that you have rebuilt the auto. make sure that you run factory toyota auto transmission fluid & a damn big cooler. Yojimbo will tell you how bad an overheating auto launches.
also check the change down cable tension. I cant see how an ecu issue would effect changes so badly.
What transmission oil do you run?
What have you done mechanically?
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Location:
Southern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Sat, 01 March 2003 05:49
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Well the problem isn't rough changes or anything like that (I am running the Type IV atf)
What I've done so far is replaced the transmission filter, put new gaskets in and changed the fluid. Everything looked fine when this was done, no mechanical damage etc.
The problem is that when a traffic lights, occasionally (and this is becoming more frequent) the gearbox won't go into first gear automatically and will try to take off in second gear. I have to manually select 1st gear before it will engage.
Sometimes the ECU diagnostics will beep and flash up on my dash also.
Could this be caused by the change down cable tension???
I thought it must have been an ecu issue, but I don't pretend to know much about gearboxes.
I do plan on getting a transmission cooler eventually, but at the moment I don't drive the thing hard enough to justify the purchase... definitely down the track though.
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Sat, 01 March 2003 08:11
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Remedy
Have you tried an ECT ECU reset as documented by Ian Wiltshire on LSOC?
http://www.jkwebdesign.net/discus/messages/48/6109 .html?#POST45524
According to Ian
"It applies to all Auto'box problems...it resets everything to zero and 'reboots' (wrong term, but sorta makes sense) the ECU duplex....it has cured a few ills...it can't cure anything mechanical but everything electrical can be started from scratch with this operation. "
The noted procedure is
"Remove the battery, overnight, reconnect with the following fuses not in place....EFI and DOME (under the bonnet) reconnect DOME then EFI start car, sit in driveway with handbrake on, go through the shift pattern, slowly, ensuring you stay in each gear for a few seconds. "
I obviously drive a 5 Speed Soarer and have never used this so I can't comment as to wether it works or not, but before swapping ECUs and all, it's got to be worth a try.
BTW, JZA70 and JZZ30 ECUs are not pin compatible and cannot be easily swapped. The JZZ30 EFI & ECT ECUs are integrated - I assume same apllies to the JZA70.
Good luck and let us know how you go.
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Location:
Southern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Sat, 01 March 2003 14:11
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Cheers,
Will definetly try this. Only problem is when I disconnect my battery my alarm goes off and I never received the alarm key to disable it.
Do I really have to leave the battery off all night? Can't I just disconnect it and then pump the brake pedal to drain some power or something similar????
I have a feeling the neighbours might complain if the alarm was to go off all night 
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Location:
Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Sat, 01 March 2003 23:25
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Remedy
I suppose you could try pulling the EFI & DOME Fuses overnight instead of disconnecting the battery and then follow the sequence. Got to be worth a try.
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I supported Toymods
Location:
Epping, Sydney
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Sun, 02 March 2003 00:35
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you vcould just pull the power cable to your ecu (if it's accessable)
that way the alarm would stay powered
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Location:
newcastle
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Mon, 03 March 2003 09:07
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sure you can try resetting the ecu .if i where you id write to your alarm manufacturer.And try to buy a key. Resetting your ecu should be a frequent thing you do .
You only need to have hit the rev limiter or had bad detontation under certain load conditions and your ecu will have pulled out some timimg .
EVERY time i do power runs for people with a 1j if they arent that great i tell em to reset the ecu and go again they almost always get a better power figure
you only need to leave the battery disconnected for a few minutes.The computer will have cleared all codes and reverts to the factory program the fuse trick seems VERY weird indeed .with no power to it the ecu reverts to the original factory program regardless.
The problem they are discusssing( in the forum link above) is the ecu hitting the rev limiter before the gear change .this problem will go away away without pullling the fuses .
I think he just tried it that way and assumed it was the cure . My wifes Cressida (1jz) did the same thing yet again once the correct change down tension was set the problem went away (forever) .
These guys tension the cables right up to get harder shifts which does work but there is a maximum tension level the rev limiter is a sure sign .NOTE it will only do this at FULL throttle .
Also if you want a harder shift back off about 1/4 throttle JUST before a gear change an nail it again as soon as it shifts this stops the FLUTTER and soft shift .and is good for a tenth or 2 on the 1/4 mile
i still feel your pointing more towards a mechanical problem.I have seen the exact same prob with a 1j with a burnt out 3rd gear clutch pack it wouldnt enagage 3rd or reverse(shared clutch pack).
Funny enough the guys that have killed these auto's have fitted big coolers and never had the problem again
the way you drive is not the issue its the size of the factory cooler unless you 1j is BOG stock and you live in similar weather conditions to japan you need a cooler .IF you actually measure tranny temps they are BLOODY hot .even with light driving
And no!! the change down cable will not cause your problem but has casued others Particuarly when overtensioned
i would suggest a quick trip to an auto trans specialist if the reset doesnt work (i doubt it will)
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Location:
Wollongong
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Mon, 03 March 2003 10:19
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I can vouch for the extreme temps Celicamad is talking about.
I installed a transmission cooler on the weekend and let the car idle for a few mins. I touched the cooler and nearly burned my hand. It gets *very* hot just sitting there.
I went on the Greenpatch cruise on the weekend which was a good opportunity to test out the new cooler. Usually after a bit of driving, the transmission tunnel heats up and the carpet becomes warm/hot to touch. After driving for ~2 hours straight, I felt the carpet on the transmission tunnel... it was the same temp (give or take 1-2C) as the rest of the carpet. The cooler is definitely doing its job, and I'm sure the gearbox will last much longer because of this modification.
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Location:
Southern Sydney
Registered:
August 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Mon, 03 March 2003 13:35
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Thanks for all your help guys. Will be trying a few things on the weekend and shall let you know what happens.
Just had a thought though. What RPM do your Cars idle at. Its hard to tell off the bar graph on the soarer so I'm going of the Apexi SAFC i have installed.
If my idle was too low could this be causing the problem???
I've been doing a bit of experimenting on the way to and from work. It doesn't seem to happen when I have the Air Con on as this raises the RPM a tad.
Your thoughts 1J Guru's...
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Location:
Wollongong
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 1jz auto comp question.
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Mon, 03 March 2003 22:16
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I idle at what seems to be 600rpm.
It is hard to tell with the bar graph though.
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