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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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3T-C oil leak block/bellhousing rear seal/sump
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Fri, 21 February 2003 12:41
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Don't ya just hate oil leaks!!!!
Engine: 3T-C (nothin special)
Symptom: oil coming down exterior of sandwich plate between block and bellhousing.
The question is:
Does the sandwhich plate between block and bellhousing go all the way to the shaft such that if there was an oil leak from the rear main bearing seal that it would run down the block side of the plate rather than into the bellhousing? Eventially I suppose if there was no drainage from the block side it would fill up and flow into the bellhousing - I note a drainage hole in the bottom of the bellhousing - no oil from there!
It's been a while since I did the clutch - there didn't appear to be an oil leak from rear seal. So I suspect it's the sump gasket. Nothing from higher up the engine.
One things for sure if the sump comes off it's got to be painted before it's put back on! 
Cheers
David
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-C oil leak block/bellhousing rear seal/sump
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Mon, 03 March 2003 05:34
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Hi all,
well the sump is off and low and behold there is this alloy plate at the back of the block! What is it? Does the rear main bearing get supported by it?
Now the oil leak could be coming from the seal of the alloy plate to the block - possibly meaning removing the whole engine - arrrrgh!!!! Or is this plate accessable after taking the bellhousing off?
I am sure the 3T-gt blocks are the same and there are quite a few of youz with them.
Got a new sump seal in the hope it was that - and yes the sump is being painted (yellow). It is a well know fact that painted sumps result in a performance increase
Cheers
David
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I supported Toymods
Location:
melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered:
June 2002
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Location:
adelaide
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-C oil leak block/bellhousing rear seal/sump
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Mon, 03 March 2003 11:14
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Sorry Grega..(off the topic) What model 2T is that?? i dont know much bout the t series but it doesnt look like a regular 2tgeu?
It DOES look mighty clean and neat tho, much credit to you!
Guy
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-C oil leak block/bellhousing rear seal/sump
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Mon, 03 March 2003 13:06
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Thanks Grega,
so the alloy plate _only_ holds the seal in place?
If oil comes out of the seal would it run into the bellhousing or does the sandwich plate have a small hole in it that the shaft pokes through - so that the oil would run down the front (engine side) of the plate?
I'm trying to narrow down the possibilities. Will know if the whole shebang needs to be taken apart if there is still a leak after putting the sump back on.
How much did you pay for the engine stand?
Nice looking engine man.
David
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I supported Toymods
Location:
melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3T-C oil leak block/bellhousing rear seal/sump
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Mon, 03 March 2003 20:10
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blackra28.....its an (internally (for the moment) standard 2T) with 3T-EU inlet manifold. its not a 2TGEU. (just call me brother pushrod (insert flames here )
if anywhere i think it would run down the front of the sandwich plate to be honest with you - so sit basically at the rear of the sump...
my engine stand came from super cheap auto and cost $89
thanks dudes.
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Location:
Melbourne
Registered:
May 2002
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Re: 3T-C oil leak block/bellhousing rear seal/sump
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Wed, 05 March 2003 12:53
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Aaaaargh!
put nice freshly painted yellow sump (for extra performance  - with new seal back on and low and behold there's still an oil leak so it must be the rear main bearing seal OR the alloy plate holding the main seal - faaaargh!
Is there a seal for this plate or does one just use aviation sealant?
Is it a simple matter of unbolting it taking the main seal off repacing it and putting it back? What's the torque for the bolts?
Can anyone scan an exploded diagram from the engine manual and post it too me?
BUT worse still is a knock sounding like the crank is hitting the sump. The new seal is'nt thinner than what came off so I'm stumped. Didn't tighten the bolts too much (what's the torque for these - they are 'hand' tight. The baffle did foul the oil pick-up when I first tried to get the sump off without lifting the engine high enough and was a little raised on one edge (maybe a mm or 2). Didn't think much of it at the time.
Anyway the whole shebang has to come apart again.
Moral of the story - if you replace a clutch (which I did a year ago) do the rear engine seal as a matter of course.
BTW used Altawood brand engine enamel and baked with oven door half open & sump longways across oven door. The result was a bit brittle. Funny when you bake enamel it goes soft and evens out first then goes hard. Noticed also when spraying onto hot surface it spreads out fast to good effect. Overall this brand or technique results in a too brittle coat.
Don't ya just hate leaks!!!!
Also noticed the stearing box is leaking - is the bottom seal for this replaceable?
David
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I supported Toymods
Location:
melbourne.victoria.austra...
Registered:
June 2002
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Re: 3T-C oil leak block/bellhousing rear seal/sump
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Wed, 05 March 2003 19:43
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nah, the seal is basically a push in fit, you remove the alloy plate on the back of it (a few bolts hold this in), remove the sump (again) and the alloy cover should come off the end of the crank (i think - doing this from mental picture) - from there using something the same diameter as the seal, you drift the seal out and then, replace it with a new one via the same method (ie: drift it back in)
email me : grega@vncommodore.com and i'll scan you pix from the original manual.
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