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I supported Toymods
Location:
Central Coast
Registered:
May 2002
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A few more 7MGTE q's, about the CT26 actually
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Fri, 21 March 2003 14:34
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Ok,
I have fitted the rebuilt the engine, now, the heats shield that covers the turbo, one of the studs came out, do I need to put it back in or can I use bolts? Is it really neccessary to have it on? I guess the purpose of it is to keep the heat away form the intake piping?
The bottom shroud thingy underneath the car, it is busted, same question with this.
Thanks peoples!!
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Re: A few more 7MGTE q's, about the CT26 actually
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Sat, 22 March 2003 01:11
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Definately try to put all the heat sheilds back in place. they might look pretty useless but they can actually be quite good at thier job of controlling underbonnet temps and heat soak.
If you replace studs with bolts make sure you use high tensile bolts.
Matt
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Location:
melbourne
Registered:
March 2003
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Re: A few more 7MGTE q's, about the CT26 actually
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Sun, 23 March 2003 08:24
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hey jimbo
i emailed celicamad boy that guy knows his shit he helped me get the turbos setup properly on the 1uz .boost came on 1000 rpm sooner
he said to ask you aboyt sr20 .my mate has one and is looking for more power
he said you really new your stuff and if he said it then your a legend
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Re: A few more 7MGTE q's, about the CT26 actually
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Sun, 23 March 2003 10:22
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Hey Paul lay off already, I got enough sunshine in my arse already !!!
seriously though
I haveplayed with ssr20's a little but Paul was mistaken as most experience i have is with rb20 an 1j's.
THough mods for the rb20 would be very similar to th sr.
Its a simple formula really - which depends on the power required.
So I will tell you what to do with an rb20 and I reckon a ot of the advice would be right for both.
get yourself a decent fuel pump first - they die early on nissans the last 3 digits of the bosch pumps denotes the model 040 or 019 are both good for heps of grunt and can be mounted intank with only small mods if you want more then go with an external 044 or multiples of pumps, - and then cooler, oil cooler and catchcan.
u neeed a decent turbo - a vg30 bb unit is a good upgrade and can be had cheap off a nissan leopard ( $450) - this should net you 160 rwkw or so at 1 barr. it will bolt up (to rb20 - check this for sr) but you will need a new dump pipe.
if you want more than this then get yourself a new garret gt25, or if your feeling lucky (cos a rebuild hurts bad  a second hand hks 2535, dont get sucked in to a 2540, they are shit compared - for a single turb engine.
Injectors are not easy to get - dont believe the shit you read in magazines or even other enthusiasts webpages - we had a lot of issues and ended up using rochester 50lb injectors which once they were modified to fit the rail cost nearly 1200$ fitted - ouch!
My brother has a setup similar to this (HKS 2535) and is makeing comfortably over 200rwkw on 19 psi. the turbo is good for 25, and he will one day make use of it, but with stock internals he is happy with the uncontrolable wheelspin he already has !
Management is a real issue, we went with chiptorque , though I would think about this if i had the chance again and maybe go the whole hog with autronic.
We are running a HKSevc4 for boost control atm , but testing has proven Celicamads bleed system to be better- and so this will be set up on both cars (mine included ) asap.
Hope I helped a little.
Matt
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